Holley Sniper Issues

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Confusedcuda

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Got the basic Sniper for my 68 340, with the OEM style fuel module sending unit/fuel pump from Holley. I have a "Ready to Run" distributor. Hit the key the fuel pump comes on like it should, shuts off after a few seconds, go to start and it won't fire up. sounds like not getting fuel. Check fuel at the inlets it is getting fuel,(purged lines to get air out, lots of gas) if you pour a little fuel into the primaries, it fires right up and runs, just till it uses that little fuel. Any one got any ideas or had similar issues? Calling Holley monday. Thanks
 
Sounds to me like it’s not getting the needed tach signal. When you crank the engine to start does the tach on the 3.5” display show rpm?
 
Is the Sniper computer getting 12 volts in the start and run position?
 
Is the Sniper computer getting 12 volts in the start and run position?
i had to pull off 12v from the ignition switch to get the minimum needed 'cranking' voltage necessary to get a starting situation. if you find another spot to pull 'cranking voltage' from please post from where you find it.

thanks
 
I would almost bet this is the old "IGN1 / IGN2" issue. CHECK that the system is actually getting power BOTH with the key in "run" and with the key in "start."

IGN1 is the "run" power from the key which feeds through the bulkhead and powers underhood loads like the ballast resistor, alternator field, regulator, electric choke if used, etc etc. THIS POWER GOES DEAD during "crank" or "start."

IGN2 is (usually brown) the resistor bypass circuit which goes from the key, through the bulkhead, to the coil + side of the ballast. IF YOU are using a non ballast system you MUST jumper the "run" and the "bypass" together to get power both in start and run

One thing you can do temporarily is jumper power direct to the EFI and trigger wire until you get things worked out. (fired). Also check that you have spark
 
does it have a cam position sensor? If modern EFI doesnt detect a CPS or crank position signal it will kill the fuel pump. Do you have a NOID tester (injector pulse light) If they are not cycling then no start. There should be a hot wire on each injector when ignition is on start or (idle) run, it will cycle the ground side if you can get to the harness.
 
sniper are TBI, no cam position. In fact you can even trigger them off points or coil NEG, if not a CDI/ MSD
 
When you say ready to run dist, do you mean the hyperspark distributor?
 
It runs when you pour fuel down it…have a fuel pressure gauge? And if this is a new install double-check which inlet you are using. I’ve hear of people connecting at the regulator outlet.
 
IDK if its a start/run position power issue as it doesnt start and when it runs (fuel primed) it wont stay running. I think the system is getting enough tach input to run (again, on the fuel splashed into the system) but no injector pulse. Are you using violet/green or white ignition inputs?
 
Put key in on position and use a screw driver across the posts on the starter relay. If it fires and runs you don’t have enough cranking voltage through the key circuit. I had a similar issue, this cleared it up, so I just installed a push button (wired across the two terminals on the starter relay) rather than tracking down the voltage issue.
 
has 62 psi when turn key to run, when pumps shuts off after fuel seconds it holds around 55 or 56
 
If you are using the Hyperspark dist. and matching coil, you can use the old coil wires (brown and blue) tied together to provide power to the Sniper ignition module since the module powers the coil. You also don't need the ballast resistor. I modified my ballast resistor by soldering a good sized wire to the posts on the backside, so it looks like a ballast resistor but isn't. That way I kept the look of the firewall.
 
Got the basic Sniper for my 68 340, with the OEM style fuel module sending unit/fuel pump from Holley. I have a "Ready to Run" distributor. Hit the key the fuel pump comes on like it should, shuts off after a few seconds, go to start and it won't fire up. sounds like not getting fuel. Check fuel at the inlets it is getting fuel,(purged lines to get air out, lots of gas) if you pour a little fuel into the primaries, it fires right up and runs, just till it uses that little fuel. Any one got any ideas or had similar issues? Calling Holley monday. Thanks
Ok try this , take your air cleaner off get someone to operate the key while you look over the throttle body don’t start it just get the pump to prime you should get a prime shot . You will see fuel squirt from 4 injectors not a lot but enough to see if fuel is getting in .It me know before going to step 2 .This is not aimed at you but your fuel line in what side did you connect it too ? Reg side or other ? If that’s ok some times the connections on the injectors don’t sit properly on won’t fire it’s an easy fix by removing the side covers but don’t do this unless if it’s out of warranty from Holley because sometimes people tend to pinch the wires when installing the covers and than your screwed and they wont cover you . Sounds like something simple. One other thing what pump are you running ? Is it like the oe setup with the built in reg so you don’t need a return or you running a return line . Cheers
 
Hello Confusedcuda
1,
Turn the key on..
Wait till after the pump stop's..
Look at the Hand held and what is the TPS percentage on the LCD (with just the key on and not cranking).
What is the CTS and MAT temp on the hand held.
2,
Wile looking down the throttle body Turn key on (do not crank)
Do you see all 4 injectors shoot a small amount of fuel wile the pump is running (Prime cycle)
3,
Turn key on..
Wait till pump stops.
Crank engine.
Wile cranking does the held held stay on and all sensors continue to display?
Do any of the sensors go yellow and or red?
4,
Turn key on.
Wait till pump stops.
Crank engine and depress the throttle to 1/4 way open.
Does the engine want to start.

Do you know how to start a Datalogging session?
Do you have the laptop software and CAN / laptop interface cable?
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
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If it starts with fuel it means the MSD is getting a signal but the Sniper is not have you set the input type in the sniper setup also watch the sniper screen when cranking it should show RPM on the onscreen tacho about 150 to 200 enough to command the Sniper to spray in some fuel . Does it do the prime sqiurt when the key is turned on if not turn it off & on a few times could have an airlock . Also do you have a return if the lines are reversed the onboard regulator will block the fuel try checking the return line to see if there is pressure .
 
Called Holly, spent about 30 minutes checking over everything with the tech on the phone, let him listen to how if I poured a little gas down throttle body it would fire right up and run till it used that gas. They said send it in we will take care of it. I was impressed cause I bought it a year ago, that's why I went with Holley heard they had better cust. serv. than FItech
 
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