Holley Sniper Stealth system

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Calipag

Calipag

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Location
Corona California
1970 Dart 318 with 904 transmission.

We are starting to plan out our (father son) installation of this Holley EFI system and we are having some difficulties finding answers to a couple of questions we had. Have any members installed one of these systems; specifically the Sniper Stealth 4150? If so anything we should be looking out for? There is a lot of info on the Sniper systems and videos but this Stealth system is a little different.
Questions:
  1. Where does the fuel return line come from on this system? It is different than the old Sniper system.
  2. There is 10 pin connector coming from the (carb) EFI but it is not labeled and the instructions don't mention it at all. Any idea?
  3. The "package" my son purchased did not come with a fuel pump regulator, just the Holley in line fuel pump. Do we need a regulator? I would guess yes but not sure why the sales guy/tech didn't sell him the regulator also.
  4. For those who have mounted the fuel pump for EFI systems on the frame rail, what did you use (hardware) to lag into the frame?
We have an email into Holley but they are saying possibly 2 days for answers! We called and the wait time to speak to someone is over 30 minutes.

Thank you all ahead of time
 
It sounds to me like you are missing some documentation somewhere. What is the actual part number of the complete system you bought.

Here is one version of the support page:

Tech Resources

Fuel pump layout page 11 of this

https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_199r11031r-1.pdf

Also, I have not been there in awhile, but the Holley support forum is very good. Danny Cabrel is just incredibly patient ant helpful. I don't know WTF Holley is gonna do when he decides to "do something else"

Holley EFI
 
Last edited:
Screenshot of page 11

Holleyfuel.jpg
 
Hello calppag,
My kit was missing the complete instructions. It only had the quick start instructions in it, Useless....
You can find them here
https://documents.holley.com/199r11971.pdf
The Fuel routing / regulator / 10 pin is all in the complete instructions..
Just as a note:
Use the little white stylus to interact with the display... Go slow when using the wizard and wait till the screen / computer updates...
Follow the wiring connections as stated in the instructions. No crappy crimps.. No birds nest wiring.. I soldered all my connections and its payed off with no issues to date...
Also buy the laptop cable and download the software for it !!! Well worth the money....
I did a custom in tank pump using a stock tank so no help there in mounting to the frame rail.
And as 76Dart273 said the forums and Holley tech line is of good help... If you call holley have your questions at hand and have pen and paper to copy there answers down..
Also you can follow this post. It will save you time :)
Clean 12v switched source that is hot cranking and running
Use the recommend filters... If you are using A/N fittings on the system you can find the correct filters with A/N fittings on them... I did the whole install using Earls Ultra Pro black hose and A/N fittings. Expensive but well worth the money...
Stay Safe...
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.

Super Sniper Fuel.jpg

Super Sniper 10 pin 1.jpg
Super Sniper 10 pin 2.jpg
 
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dano said:
Holley now has a return less drop in fuel pump for A bodies.

Holley 12-319 Holley 255 LPH OE Style EFI Fuel Tank Modules
Click to expand...


THANKS !!!! ............but.......... I don't see anywhere they spec the pressure output?

EDIT.........found it in the overview. Who'd a thunk it would not be in the "specifications" LOL

• This in-tank fuel pump module is a high-pressure unit that flows 255 liters per hour (LPH) and is capable of supporting EFI (electronic fuel injection) engines producing up to 550 horsepower • Fuel pressure is internally regulated to 58 psi eliminating the added expense and effort of purchasing and installing an external fuel pressure regulator • A pre-calibrated fuel-level sending unit (73-10 ohm) designed to work with the factory fuel gauge for this application is included • This module also features a HydraMat filter which has a unique internal reservoir that keeps fuel available at the pick-up and also provides protection from contaminants
 
67Dart273 said:
Whet did you do in your particular case about 12v to the system? As I said in that post, I simply jumpered IGN1 and IGN2
Click to expand...

Hello 67Dart273,
I am running a stock (electric) Dizzy, Box, and ballast so I was not able to jump the blues (IGN 1 and 2). and wanted to keep the car looking completely stock looking (except for the EFI and with the stock air cleaner you really cant see it)
I was first going to do the diode route but I have friends at ABB so i got some parts from them and made a custom one off relay to power the Pink wire (EFI computer).
When you first key on there is 12 Vdc to pick the coil... When cranking the voltage drops but will still hold the coil in... When you release start your back to 12 / 14 Vdc in Run... I also added a "MOV" accross the coil...
Works like a charm...
Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
67Dart273 said:
It sounds to me like you are missing some documentation somewhere. What is the actual part number of the complete system you bought.

Here is one version of the support page:

Tech Resources

Fuel pump layout page 11 of this

https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_199r11031r-1.pdf

Also, I have not been there in awhile, but the Holley support forum is very good. Danny Cabrel is just incredibly patient ant helpful. I don't know WTF Holley is gonna do when he decides to "do something else"

Holley EFI
Click to expand...

Thank you but we do have the information that you gave but:
That diagram on page 11 is for the sniper not the sniper stealth. Page 11 is what we have but does not show the Stealth set up; just the sniper. On the Stealth PN 4150 has what they call the fuel log that goes to both of those fitting shown going into the EFI on page 11 it shows one as a feed and one as a return on the plain Sniper. The stealth system is different.

I'm hoping we can get to talk to or at least they respond to our email.

It looks like @Arron tate has what we need! I'm glad it just wasn't us missing something!!!

Thanks again.
 
Arron tate said:
Hello calppag,
My kit was missing the complete instructions. It only had the quick start instructions in it, Useless....
You can find them here
https://documents.holley.com/199r11971.pdf
The Fuel routing / regulator / 10 pin is all in the complete instructions..
Just as a note:
Use the little white stylus to interact with the display... Go slow when using the wizard and wait till the screen / computer updates...
Follow the wiring connections as stated in the instructions. No crappy crimps.. No birds nest wiring.. I soldered all my connections and its payed off with no issues to date...
Also buy the laptop cable and download the software for it !!! Well worth the money....
I did a custom in tank pump using a stock tank so no help there in mounting to the frame rail.
And as 76Dart273 said the forums and Holley tech line is of good help... If you call holley have your questions at hand and have pen and paper to copy there answers down..
Also you can follow this post. It will save you time :)
Clean 12v switched source that is hot cranking and running
Use the recommend filters... If you are using A/N fittings on the system you can find the correct filters with A/N fittings on them... I did the whole install using Earls Ultra Pro black hose and A/N fittings. Expensive but well worth the money...
Stay Safe...
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.

View attachment 1715588657
View attachment 1715588658 View attachment 1715588659
Click to expand...

Where did you run your return line to? I was going to use the Vapor return line since we have 4 other vents in the tank since it's a CA car, that line is already plumed.
 
67Dart273 said:
Whet did you do in your particular case about 12v to the system? As I said in that post, I simply jumpered IGN1 and IGN2
Click to expand...

We have not gotten that far. I'm trying to sort everything prior to diving in to this.
We are running a GM ignition Module and was actually going to reach out to @TrailBeast for a suggestion on that?

This is my sons daily driver so once it's down it can only be down for a day or two!

Thank you
 
Calipag said:
We have not gotten that far. I'm trying to sort everything prior to diving in to this.
We are running a GM ignition Module and was actually going to reach out to @TrailBeast for a suggestion on that?

This is my sons daily driver so once it's down it can only be down for a day or two!

Thank you
Click to expand...

I was actually directing that to Aaron Tate who mentioned the circuit he employed

With a GM HEI you should be able to find interface into the Holley system in the Holley docs. The GM does not need a resistor, so you can likely just jumper the Mopar IGN1 and IGN2 together and wire that to a relay coil.

See pages 22-25 of the pdf and here:

is a thread about interfacing this type

FOr those running EFI that want a low cost dist.

Timing control with GM large cap HEI.

This might be best of all

Demystifying Holley Terminator and Sniper Ignition Hookup

 
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67Dart273 said:
I was actually directing that to Aaron Tate who mentioned the circuit he employed

With a GM HEI you should be able to find interface into the Holley system in the Holley docs. The GM does not need a resistor, so you can likely just jumper the Mopar IGN1 and IGN2 together and wire that to a relay coil.
Click to expand...

I believe I could/should take it off the red lead going to the GM module and coil? @TrailBeast

I believe Holley only shows
ign.jpg
if you are running a GM dizzy. I'm running the Mopar dizzy and coil with the GM module.
 
Caliph said:
I believe I could/should take it off the red lead going to the GM module and coil? @TrailBeast I believe Holley only showsView attachment 1715588700 if you are running a GM dizzy. I'm running the Mopar dizzy and coil with the GM module.
Click to expand...

Hello Caliph,
Caution should be taken when sourcing power for the EFI.. It does not like "Dirty" power...
From page 18
"Don’t connect the PINK switched +12V wire to “dirty” sources, such as the ignition coil, audio systems, or 12V sources connected to HID head lamps"
As the instructions cleary state
"An EFI system depends heavily on being supplied a clean and constant voltage source. The grounds of an electrical system are just as important as the power side. Sniper EFI contains multiple processing devices that require clean power and ground sources. The wiring for them must be installed in such a manner that they are separated from “dirty” power and ground sources. DO’S  Install the main power and ground directly to the battery. To the POSTS/TERMINALS, not to any other place.  Keep sensor and crank signal (distributor) wiring away from high voltage or “noisy/dirty” components and wiring, especially secondary ignition wiring (plug wires), ignition boxes, water pumps, fans and other associated wiring. It is best that the plug wires not physically contact any EFI wires.  Properly crimp or crimp and solder any wire connections. Apply quality heat shrink over any of these connections.  It is critical that the engine has a proper ground connection from the battery to the chassis, and the battery to the engine. DON’TS  NEVER run high voltage or “noisy/dirty” wires in parallel (bundle/loom together) with any EFI sensor wiring. If wires need to cross, try to do so at an angle.  Don’t use the electric fan outputs to directly power a fan. They must only trigger a relay.  Don’t use improper crimping tools.  Don’t use things like “t-taps”, etc. Use proper crimpers/solder and heat shrink.  It is never recommended to splice/share signal wires (such as TPS, etc.) between different electronic control units (i.e. “piggyback”).  Don’t connect the PINK switched +12V wire to “dirty” sources, such as the ignition coil, audio systems, or 12V sources connected to HID head lamps.  NEVER start an engine with a battery charger attached".

Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
Calipag said:
Where did you run your return line to? I was going to use the Vapor return line since we have 4 other vents in the tank since it's a CA car, that line is already plumed.
Click to expand...

Hello Calipag,
I ran my both my supply and return lines using Earls Ultra Pro line and # 8 A/N fittings.. Both supply and return are connected to the stock tank using Earls Bulk Head Fittings..
Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
Earls Bluk head fitting.jpg
 
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