How Accurate is Camquest?

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69dodgedart360

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How accurate is camquest because i punched in all of the information and i dont know i just have a hard time believing my car has this much power. I mean yeah it feels quick but i dunno i just dont think its this strong. i would think that my combo is good for about 425 maybe, but according to this program i have 458hp@6000 and 442ft lb @5000 this is my combo:

Small Block 360 bored .030 over
Stock Crank but has been rebalanced
Keith Black hypreutectic pistions Compression ratio is 10:1,10.5:1
Fully Ported out 2.02 1.60 valve Mopar X Heads
Comp Cams Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam XE284H-10 (lift is at .510)
1.6 Ratio Comp Cams Aluminium Roller Rockers
TTI Headers with 2.5 in pipe into 40 series flowmasters out all the way back
Holley 670cfm Street Avenger Carb
Edelbrock Air-Gap intake
MSD igniton everything

anyone ever use camquest and dyno their car to prove it matched?
 
It depends how good your heads are.We have a 10.5 comp 360 with UNPORTED EQ Magnum heads ,a good solid cam that is in the upper 230,s for duration,a Performer RPM intake and a HOLLEY 4412 2 BARREL carb that makes 452 for power and 445 for torque.Just because your heads are ported doesn't mean the are done correctly.Furthermore,if it is an automatic with not enough stall and not enough gear it will not seem very quick.
 
I have the camquest and it calculates 410 HP as my peak on my 360. I also tried another piece of software that cost several hundred dollars and has much more specific choices like it has a selection for magnum and another for magnum R/T heads plus it has selctions for most of the more popular intake manifolds. This software calculates the HP of my 360 at 398.

Based on knowing 1/4 mile trap speed and the weigh of the car with me in it I can estimate crank HP. Doing it this way I come up with 370 HP. Thats likely a little low since I have traction issues and typically get 2.2 to 2.4 sec. 60' times and the car is still accelerating at the end of the 1/4.
 
I think its feasable, but with iron heads, you would have to have a top notch port job that cost $1000. With that cam I would not put you at over 1.2hp/ci, which means about 439hp if you had perfect heads.
 
I think camquest is optimistic.

Desktop Dyno is more realistic.

Dont really like the fact that I cant run anything but a comp cam in camquest either.
 
I have both Desktop Dyno and Camquest. Camquest is a little more optimistic than Desktop Dyno but their close if you put in all the variables exactly the same. That's the trick. You said your heads were fully ported. What does that mean in terms of flow numbers? As for my heads that I fully ported and polished as an amateur flow 252 cfm peak at .550 lift on the intake side. Experienced head techs can get allot more out of the same head because they know exactly what to do which I didn't. So if you just choose fully ported in their head directory you can easily come up with a bunch more hp than your engine is really making. Same goes for the compression ratio. If you don't' know EXACTLY that can affect the outcome. One half point can make 10 hp difference.

In other words Camquest is like most other computer programs. It's only as good as the information that was input to it.
 
needsaresto said:
I think camquest is optimistic.

Desktop Dyno is more realistic.

Dont really like the fact that I cant run anything but a comp cam in camquest either.
Click to expand...

You can alter the data files in camquest. I had a short right up printed out on how to do it.

Let me see if I can find it. I think someone on moparts wrote up how to do it as well.
 
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...Words=camquest&topic=&Search=true#Post4049227

If you can't see it here it is.
exit1965 wrote this up:

Just found a way to enter custom cam info if you're using this program.

First, build your engine in Camquest, and find some comp cams # that comes up as a possibility for your motor. Write the # down, example 21-225-4. Pick a comp cam that you don't intend to actually use (or want to compare against), since you're going to change its specs. Save your engine and exit Camquest (you can stay in, but you'll have to exit and open again to see your new cam).

1. Find the shortcut to open the program; right click on it and choose "properties"
2. Click on "Find Target"
3. Go into "Manuals & Videos" folder
4. Go into "Menus" folder
(you may want to make a backup copy of CompCamsData6.txt now in case something goes wrong. Press CTRL-C, then CTRL-V to make a copy).
5. Click on "CompCamsData6.txt" to open it with notepad or another text editor.
6. Press Ctrl and F to open the find dialog.
7. Enter the # you wrote down 21-225-4 and press enter.

You will now see something that looks like this:

Chrysler 383-440 C.I. 8 CYL. 1959-1980 "Hydraulic-Street / Strip, needs 2800+ stall 9:1 comp, rough idle." Yes Yes Yes Yes

Xtreme Energy™ Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts Hydraulic Lifter Hyd. Hyd. 2300 to 6500 21-225-4(Single Bolt)

XE284H 284 296 240 246 0.507 0.51 110 106.0 K21-225-4 SK21-225-4 [7] CL21-225-4 [7 ] Not Applicable 822-16 [61]/867-16

[37] 2104/3104 1321-16 [23]/1071-KIT [23] pg. 278-279 911-16/925-16 [2] 741-16 627-16 [27] 505-16 [2]




Now you can change the values in bold. First thing is change the model (XE284H) to the name of your cam (e.g. Isky292 in my case) so that you can spot it easier in the cam quest program. You could also change the description if you want.

Now change the rest of the values to match your cam.

They are (all intake then exhaust)
Seat to seat duration, .050 duration, lift at valve, intake centerline, lobe centerline.

The safest way to do these edits is to highlight the numbers you are going to change (and only those numbers) then type in your numbers which will overwrite the old ones but will not change any spacing which could goof things up.

Save the file when you're done (CTRL and S) or File>Safe.

Now open Camquest, open your saved engine, and you'll see your new cam specs there with an updated dyno sheet.
----------------------------------------------

What I do is go to the all out drag or some really obscure use and select a cam in that recommended list. Chances are you aren't likely to select that for anything and change those numbers.



.
 
Remember Cam quest wont take in account for crappy machine work. I think its usually a little generous with its out put.
 
just tried that trick (changing the cam specs) works like a charm. i was shocked to see some of the radical hp/torque/ rpm peaks changes you can get from just a off the shelf cam just by changing the timing events around a little. suffice to say, a custom cam will be on my shopping list.
 
AdamR said:
Remember Cam quest wont take in account for crappy machine work. I think its usually a little generous with its out put.
Click to expand...

This is true and I'm sure Desktop dyno is no better either.

Another thing neither take into account for is rotating mass. I'm building a new 360 and am using KB 107 pistons and Eagle I beam rods which are allot lighter than stock parts. By using these parts the rotating mass is only 10192 grams vs. 12432 grams stock. That's like only slinging 6 pistons and rods around instead of 8 so it'll have to spool up much faster and make more power. My machinist also said he should be able to internally balance it without adding Mallory metal because of the lighter parts.

I think their figures are only valid if your in a perfect world i.e. everything is perfectly machined and dyno tuned.
 
Is there a way to alter Camquest engine specs, like to allow for a stroker crank? I tried altering the stroke but it always defaulted back.
 
'64 Cuda said:
Is there a way to alter Camquest engine specs, like to allow for a stroker crank? I tried altering the stroke but it always defaulted back.
Click to expand...

That's odd. I don't have any problem changing the stroke. I just tried it again to make sure and it works fine here. Did you type in the stroke length and hit enter? That's how I did it.
 
wow i just did mine and it says 388hp and 450tq with stock 1.5 rockers and magnum heads

but i dont know how to calculate wit 1.6 rockers
 
but wit these flow numbers fron BJR Stock out of the box heads:
Intake valves are 1.925 and exh.valves are 1.625
Flow is as follows

Int. Exh.
.100 84 80
.200 132 118
.300 201 134
.400 226 134
.500 235 134
.600 236 134


the motor gets 406hp and 448tq
 
DusterBoy15 said:
but wit these flow numbers fron BJR Stock out of the box heads:
Intake valves are 1.925 and exh.valves are 1.625
Flow is as follows

Int. Exh.
.100 84 80
.200 132 118
.300 201 134
.400 226 134
.500 235 134
.600 236 134


the motor gets 406hp and 448tq
Click to expand...

Thats probably closer then 488hp.
 
11.1 compression
750 vac sec carb
1.6 rockers
dual plane intake
xe274 cam
flowtech headers with open exhaust
4.040 bore
 
Sorry mis read your first post that says 388hp, Thought you said 488. I would say 400hp is about right from that combo, Not sure why you would run 11:1 compression though. 10:1 would be plenty and still run on pump gas. I think with zero decked flat tops and a magnum head you end up at around 10.5
 
10.7 but if i ran .28 gaskets i can run 11.1 and still run 89 octane becasue dave is running 10.6 on 87 or 89, i dont remember
 
I get 403hp at 5500 and 431ftlbs at 4000rpms

a .028" gaskets with flat tops and a closed chamber head is not going to work unless you like smashed pistons. Thats to tight of a pistons to head clearance and your making your quench distance to close. The .043" gaskets are perfect.
 
Your not going to see a huge difference in power between 1.5 and 1.6 ratio rockers.
 
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