how do I remove/replace studs on 7 1/4

[coffeedart67]

Doing a scarebird front disc swap so all of the front studs are now right hand thread, would like to replace the rear wheel studs so I have ALL right hand thread. How do I do this, is there a somewhat inexpensive tool, do I need to remove the axle? 67 Dart, 10 inch drums, 7 1/4 rear.
Thanks
Aaron

 

[Oldmanmopar]

No special tools hit then out with a brass hammer and pull the new ones back in with a lug on backwards against a well lubed spacer.. Backwards meaning don't push with the tapered side of the lug.. And the reason for the spacer is so the threads don't bottom before the stud is pulled all the way in against the head.

 

[69B-Cuda]

I normally pull the axle and use my press. If not, then I drive the old ones out using an air chisel with a center punch bit in it. Then pull them in as OMM said...

 

[coffeedart67]

Ok, thanks wasn't sure if I would mess up any internals in the rear if I beat on the studs. If I use a brass hammer will it mess up the threads, just thinking if I can get em out without destroying them I can throw them in the classifieds for little of nothing.
Aaron

 

[equium]

Sorry. got to revive this thread. I've successfully removed the LH studs on my 7.25 axle. I got new studs from Napa. The new studs are just a hair longer and don't want to squeeze in. Is there a sweet spot anyone knows of?
Other than taking the new studs to a grinder, is there any other option?
thanks

 

[mguner]

I think the backing plate is offset the most near the wheel cylinder so you might try pulling one of the pushrods and see how close you get there....

 

[equium]

I think the backing plate is offset the most near the wheel cylinder so you might try pulling one of the pushrods and see how close you get there....

Thanks Mguner. I was in a pinch for time, so I pulled the LH studs back in. My car is going to be a Big O for an alignment and tires. My rear brake shoe material was the same thickness as the new brake shoes I have, so I stopped myself from changing them. If they can give me a valid reason to change them, I'll see if they can put the studs in; only if the can do it without removing the axle. If the axle came out with just the C clip in the pumpkin, I would have done it; but these come out like the 8.25's and need to be pulled out. My son's been waiting long enough for his car back. He can live with 3 out of the 4 wheels with chrome acorn nuts. lol
thanks again,

 

[66Dvert]

Thanks Mguner. I was in a pinch for time, so I pulled the LH studs back in. My car is going to be a Big O for an alignment and tires. My rear brake shoe material was the same thickness as the new brake shoes I have, so I stopped myself from changing them. If they can give me a valid reason to change them, I'll see if they can put the studs in; only if the can do it without removing the axle. If the axle came out with just the C clip in the pumpkin, I would have done it; but these come out like the 8.25's and need to be pulled out. My son's been waiting long enough for his car back. He can live with 3 out of the 4 wheels with chrome acorn nuts. lol
thanks again,

if the lugs studs are not a lot larger this will work.
To get the new ones in and since they are "tight " going in you won't have to worry about them spinning in the holes. spin it (the stud hole) to the adjuster area for more room to maneuver the stud in. that was the best area for me to get mine angled in. (cheated and pried the adjuster out without removing the springs ) lots more room that way.

 

[Charrlie_S]

If the axle came out with just the C clip in the pumpkin, I would have done it; but these come out like the 8.25's and need to be pulled out.

I don't understand what you are saying. 7 1/4 axles do not have "C" clips. Just pull the drum, remove the 4 nuts that hold the bearing retainer/backing plate to the housing, and pull the axle.

 

[equium]

I don't understand what you are saying. 7 1/4 axles do not have "C" clips. Just pull the drum, remove the 4 nuts that hold the bearing retainer/backing plate to the housing, and pull the axle.

you are right. The axle comes out with a puller. The FSM states that when pulling the axle, I have to replace the seal and backing plate gaskets. I don't have time to do all that right now. Perhaps down the road I'll do this.

 

[Inertia]

If you don't say anything about the left hand threads to the alignment shop,, they'll likely break them off, and have to replace them.. no charge..

They are sooo unusual, most don't realize the L threads exist..

On many customers vehicles,, I've placed a laminated,, Big Red Label, with - "STOP,, Left Hand Threads" inside the hubcaps, and a dab of red paint on the lugs...

 

[equium]

If you don't say anything about the left hand threads to the alignment shop,, they'll likely break them off, and have to replace them.. no charge..

They are sooo unusual, most don't realize the L threads exist..

On many customers vehicles,, I've placed a laminated,, Big Red Label, with - "STOP,, Left Hand Threads" inside the hubcaps, and a dab of red paint on the lugs...

LOL. That has crossed my mind. It all depends on who's working that day. There's a guy at my local Big O that knows about old cars and such. I pass his house every other day or so, and he's always got an old project in his yard. (not any mopars, though, so I might get lucky)

 

[Brad4406]

you are right. The axle comes out with a puller. The FSM states that when pulling the axle, I have to replace the seal and backing plate gaskets. I don't have time to do all that right now. Perhaps down the road I'll do this.

You actually don't need a puller. Remove the axle nuts, grab the drum and put it on over two of the old lugs inside out, put two lug nuts on inside out, and use the drum as a slide hammer; you just want to break the axle from the housing; don't pull the axle from the housing. Remove the lug nuts and drum. Install three of the new lugs using the steps previously provided. Beat the old lugs out and repeat previous steps if necessary.

The FSM may state that you have to replace the seal and gaskets, but the axle seal does not need replaced for only pulling the axle out far enough to install lugs. Many people here will tell you they reuse the backing plate gaskets as well. I know I've never replaced a set even after removing an axle.

 

[equium]

You actually don't need a puller. Remove the axle nuts, grab the drum and put it on over two of the old lugs inside out, put two lug nuts on inside out, and use the drum as a slide hammer; you just want to break the axle from the housing; don't pull the axle from the housing. Remove the lug nuts and drum. Install three of the new lugs using the steps previously provided. Beat the old lugs out and repeat previous steps.

The FSM may state that you have to replace the seal and gaskets, but the axle seal does not need replaced for only pulling the axle out far enough to install lugs. Many people here will probably tell you they reuse the backing plate gaskets as well. I know I've never replaced a set.

Thanks. That's good to know. My only fear is that if the new stud's knurl is tight going in, I might have to resort to an impact gun to pull them through. I have one, but i'm not sure if either my gun or compressor is inadequate. In the past, i've tried to unscrew lug nuts and would give up and just grab my breaker bar.