It's FABO
... and I was just fun'n
How much difference will it make?
- Thread starter Clelan
- Start date
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... and I was just fun'n
Well I'll give it a try! No harm in that! I just never would have gone there. I do appreciate real world experience!
Cley
Cley
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
One more thing I forgot to mention-
If you have front-mounted calipers, when you disconnect your front anti-sway bar and wire it up out of the way, make sure it doesn't contact or interfere with your calipers or hoses when you turn your wheels. Not a good situation.
If you have front-mounted calipers, when you disconnect your front anti-sway bar and wire it up out of the way, make sure it doesn't contact or interfere with your calipers or hoses when you turn your wheels. Not a good situation.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
He's running the a500 overdrive. It should tame the 4.10 gear. I would leave the gear. I run 3.91's with a 727 and to me seems fine. 28" rear tires help in my case. However, highway driving is limited for my liking.
Cley, be 4 the stroker my car ran mid 12s. With SS springs and long shocks it had more traction than I ever needed. Factory stock shocks and torsion bars. I never used a snubber even though I have 2. I now have Competition Engineering slide a links. Basically the same as a Caltrack. I have long race shocks if u need them. Kim. U can see in these pics how much suspension travel my car has.
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Actually the A-500 aggravates the 4.10 gear being a possible problem due to its lower 1st gear ratio. I still think the 4.10 with the tire I have should work.
Cley
Cley
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Is converter a tight one or loose? That maybe more the aggravation.
It's fairly tight. Flash to maybe 2800.
Cley
Cley
TRACTION BARS !!! OMG !!!!
Lol
I run 2800# SS springs (2 driversides to make it sit level) ,
Rear sway bar , adjustable shocks , pinion snubber , traction bars , 255/60-15 MT SS drag radials.
I just threw the kitchen sink at it...lol
Honestly you might want lighter rear springs unless you plan on running some serious HP and high rpm launches. That is if you dont want to install lighter torsion bars .
I dont think the rear sway bar will effect you at your current power level .
Lol
I run 2800# SS springs (2 driversides to make it sit level) ,
Rear sway bar , adjustable shocks , pinion snubber , traction bars , 255/60-15 MT SS drag radials.
I just threw the kitchen sink at it...lol
Honestly you might want lighter rear springs unless you plan on running some serious HP and high rpm launches. That is if you dont want to install lighter torsion bars .
I dont think the rear sway bar will effect you at your current power level .
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Check your front end travel too, with and without the front sway bar hooked up.
(Measure from a fixed point on the fender [mark with a piece of tape] to the ground, then lift with a floor jack under the center until the front tires come off the ground, and remeasure). I think most like to have five inches of travel.
(Measure from a fixed point on the fender [mark with a piece of tape] to the ground, then lift with a floor jack under the center until the front tires come off the ground, and remeasure). I think most like to have five inches of travel.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Alot of people settle 3.55's as the compromise gear. So I went with that gear at 1st. While it did give my dart more get up and go. The 3.91's are far more fun!
For daily's and a 3 speed auto, I like 2.94's with 26" tire. Not as fun at the track....
That's why I like 4.10 with a .69 O.D. gear. Same as a 2.82 gear on the highway.
Cley
Cley
yes, hard to beat the OD option.
.
What we have here is a failure to communicate between the frontend and the rearend.
The car is constipated.
For free, you need to lose the swaybars and lower the frontend height. Test run it.
If you have one, install a pinion snubber. Set against the floor with a slight preload. Test it.
Money spending, first rear completion engineering 3 way adjustable E body shocks. Test at differant setting.
Second front adjustable shocks. Test at differant settings.
This is the cheapest way to see what to do next.
I like the slide a link and mono leafs and /6 tortion bars next.
I would be using some 9 inch slicks also and sticking with the 4.10s.
Just my humble opinion which I highly value.
Ironracer
Gearhead
+1 on the stock length shock w/ ss springs.... it pins the rear bad.. I used to roll 295 50s on dry payment w/ half throttle
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I don't think the op ever said. The et is meaningless anyway, with a 2.30 60ft. The mph will tell a tale though, can figure out how much power from that, 1/8 or 1/4.
I had more problems than just the launch. It wouldn't rev over 4500 as it's really fat in the secondaries. It was 15.3 at 91.323 mph best
Cley
Cley
Actually, the ET/MPH/60ft all pretty much are on "Q" with each other. Sounds like when you get it sorted out, it may run pretty hard for you. You've identified what it's "not" doing for you (hook'n and rev'n), so you know what you are trying to fix! That's half the battle!
.
What are you using for an ignition system?
Stock mopar ignition with a Hi-rev 7500 box. Same ignition revved to 6000 and beyond with last engine combo.
Cley
Cley
furrystump
Well-Known Member
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Hydr cam?
I run 1” overarch rear springs with the rear bands cut off, which is too much rear spring. I run QA1 double adjustable rear shocks and QA1 R’s single in the front with / 6 bars. No sway bars, no snubber, 4.10 gear, converter flashes to 3340 according to logger. There is nothing in that setup that makes the car unfriendly for the street for me. The setting on the shocks would need adjusting to make the street driving pleasant, but that is just a twist of a knob. It’s best 60’ 1.68 on an F70-14 6” wide tire. The point, there is nothing really exotic suspension wise needed to launch your car. I ran 1.74 60’ with the stock 340 bars and the 340 front sway bar and KYB gas shocks on the F70-14 redline. Super stock springs are very stiff and with the shorter front segment increases the % of rise. Great for a big slick car that transfers weight well, which you can hammer as hard as you want. I have never run ss springs, but I never shock the tire, so they are not tailored to my style of racing. In my style you just want spring enough to hold the rear of the car up and not bend the front segment. Then control the axle with the shock.
Walker434
Well-Known Member
Obviously, you are getting a lot of opinions, but I'll let you know what I do with my Dart that runs 9.90s in the 1/4.
I run SS springs (add a clamp to front segment, remove rear)
I run 4 degrees negative pinion angle
make sure your rear shocks are long enough to let the SS springs do their job
I run Clavert racing 9 way adjustable rear shocks
Cheap summit 90/10s up front.
No sway bars front or rear
275/60/15 MT Street SS (I've never had luck with Nittos)
At your power level you don't need super expensive double adjustable shocks. You don't need caltacs. Don't over think it and don't over spend.
Here is a picture of my car launching on a 9.94 pass last week in Florida at Sickweek when I was trying to go 10.00. Look at the driver's side leaf spring seperation. That's what you want!
I run SS springs (add a clamp to front segment, remove rear)
I run 4 degrees negative pinion angle
make sure your rear shocks are long enough to let the SS springs do their job
I run Clavert racing 9 way adjustable rear shocks
Cheap summit 90/10s up front.
No sway bars front or rear
275/60/15 MT Street SS (I've never had luck with Nittos)
At your power level you don't need super expensive double adjustable shocks. You don't need caltacs. Don't over think it and don't over spend.
Here is a picture of my car launching on a 9.94 pass last week in Florida at Sickweek when I was trying to go 10.00. Look at the driver's side leaf spring seperation. That's what you want!
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