How to build a 13 second 340 Duster

[Idaho]

I'm planning a restoration on a 73 Duster 340 4 spd for street use. The 340 will need a rebuild and I'd like to achieve a 13.0 1/4 mile time. It will likely weigh the typical factory 3300 lb or so. The rear tires will have to fit in the factory fenders. I expect to have to replace or re-arc the springs.

I'd really appreciate some input as to the most practical engine build up to get to 13 seconds or just under.The only ideas I have so far would be to up the compression but not so much I can't run pump gas, and add headers. Maybe I should enlarge the intake valves to X head size. What else? I know there's lots of ways to do it.

I'm hoping I'll have a great plan in place with info gathered here.

 

[abdywgn]

My old Dart ran 13.18 @ 108.....stock 68 short block, grooved main bearings w/hi-volume pump, MP .484/284 cam and lifters, used Comp Cams steel retainers and springs, Mr. Gasket hardened keepers, LD340 w/3310-2 750 vac sec. with black spring. MP electronic ignition with chrome box and stock coil, Hooker 5204 1-3/4" headers w/2-1/2" pipes, DynoMax Super Turbos w/turndowns. GOOD Hays street/strip gold pressure plate and disc (could sidestep that thing all day long!), 3.23 gear, 6" X 27" J.C.Penny AFX Foremost cheater slicks. Carter electric fuel pump w/regulator and -8 fuel line to regulator. Car pulled like crazy, best times with trans left in third. Things that would have improved car: Change secondary spring to lighter one, Redone the trans with cut sliders, checked or changed to adjustable valvetrain.....the valves setted in two spots and the guides were wiped out. The combo was a blast to drive anywhere. The carb also had the secondary metering plate changed to allow jet changes. Simple combo, hope this helps! Bob

 

[moper]

Well, some depends on gearing and how well you can stick the tires and shift. My old '74 Barracuda was a 340 4sp (original 318/3sp) with 3.23 sure grip. The engine was a ring and bearing job on a '68 340, I ran a Comp Magnum 268H cam, matched springs, a '71 Thermoquad intake and carb, and 1 5/8 cheapo headers. I could run a 13.0 on Dunlop radials. With the NOS, it went 12.50s without using in in 1st, and spinning the same radials when it hit.

That was the 80s. With better machining and parts, you should be able to run 13.0 easy. I'd run KB243 hypereutectics set to 0 deck, stock rods, stock crank, file to fit rings, factory heads with either 1.88 or 2.02 intake valves (doesnt really matter to me), have a good 5 angle vlave job, replacing anything that is marginal. Static compression with a typical Fel Pro gasket comes out around 10:1 normally, depending on how big the cahmbers are. The valve job is the single most important thing you pay for. Make sure it's a good one, on good eqiupment. For a cam, an XE268 with matching springs. I'd keep the Thermoquad and intake. They are quite good. If you want to upgrade, the Edelbrock RPM airgap with an Edelbrock Thunder AVS would be my coice for it. In a Dart, that is enough for under 13.0 running a street friendly 3.55s of 3.91s, and with you using a tire that can stick.

 

[AdamR]

I think a good stock rebuild paying attention to machineing and tuning should be able to get a 340 a body in to the low 13 if you have the suspension and chassis to get the power to the ground.

 

[Longgone]

I`m with Adam on this one, just build the engine to 68-71 340 specs, perhaps a 3.55 gear, and cram as much slick as you can get in the wheelwell. If you can get it to hook up ,then 13.00 should be simple. My stock 68 Dart 340 A/T ran 13.80`s with street tires.

 

[Idaho]

Thanks a lot guys, just the kind of "seat of the pants" info I was hoping for. I have good basic mechanical knowledge/skill as I worked as an aircraft mechanic years ago but I'm not up on all the performance parts/lingo.

abdywgn:

GOOD Hays street/strip gold pressure plate and disc (could sidestep that thing all day long!),

At present I don't have a tranny. I do have a bellhousing. I'll check into your clutch recommendation. I presume by sidestep you mean dropping the clutch.

Things that would have improved car: Change secondary spring to lighter one, Redone the trans with cut sliders, checked or changed to adjustable valvetrain.....the valves setted in two spots and the guides were wiped out.

I presume here you refer to the vac secondary, allowing it to open sooner. I have no idea about "cut sliders". Also not sure about the adjustable valvetrain.

moper:

Well, some depends on gearing and how well you can stick the tires and shift.

Understood. The goal is 13.0 with reasonable amateur driving skill.

With better machining and parts, you should be able to run 13.0 easy. I'd run KB243 hypereutectics set to 0 deck, stock rods, stock crank, file to fit rings, factory heads with either 1.88 or 2.02 intake valves (doesnt really matter to me), have a good 5 angle vlave job, replacing anything that is marginal. Static compression with a typical Fel Pro gasket comes out around 10:1 normally, depending on how big the cahmbers are.

Not sure about "better machining". Not sure how pistons are "set to 0 deck".
I presume the 10.5 comp 340 could breathe a little harder and make use of the slightly larger valves so it makes sense to me if I raise the compression and the heads are being rebuilt anyway to enlarge the valve. I wonder though if this would only help at high rpm (good for track time) and hurt low rpm performance (not so good on the street).
I'm guessing 10:1 is around the upper limit for todays's pump gas? Chamber size would be per factory J head.

AdamR and Longgone:
I'd like to do it with as many factory parts as possible, but would like to achieve the goal the first time around.
I'm guessing you assume header use, which would maybe bring a 340 built to 68-71 specs up from 275 to near 300 hp (can't imagine not letting it breathe). I recognise factory hp may be under-rated. Anyone seen dyno numbers for a factory 340?
Maybe one of those calculators could give an idea if 300 hp should move 3300 lb 1/4 mile in under 13.

Dusterb suggested Caltraks to get the power to the ground (by PM) and I like that idea.

Below is a pic of tire size and overall look I'm thinking of, likely less the scoop since I doubt I'd use a high rise. Not sure what size the tires actually are but I'm guessing he's around the max without moving springs/tubbing. I'd go wider on the front of course. I was thinking I'd need more like a 4.11 gear, but then there's abdywgn's idea of using only 3 gears. A friend suggested low gears and a 4 speed overdrive, 3 gears at the track, 4 for cruisin.

The input is much appreciated.

 

[Sanguine]

you'd be pushing it with 10:1 compression on todays fuel...unless you had a large enough cam to bleed it off it will probably detonate w/ 91 octane

 

[abdywgn]

The adjustable valvetrain might have helped with the valve problem (should have read the valves seated in two spots). I think the solution maybe to check pushrod length. The sliders are in the trans, remove every other tooth. Passon? sell these or Brewer? The suspension was 002/003 SS springs, adjustable snubber, and long parts store shocks. The front suspension was 6-cylinder torsion bars, no front sway bar and worn shocks. Good luck and don't trick yourself out trying to meet your goals. Bob

 

[Dartin']

Good luck and don't trick yourself out trying to meet your goals. Bob

Totally agree. Keep it simple and you'll have a nice reliable ride that puts down a number. My 340 is .030" over with a true 10:1 compression, "J" heads with 2.02 valves, Hughes hydraulic cam,Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 750 d.p. carb, 1 5/8" headers, 2 1/2" exhaust. I run an automatic with a TCI Streetfighter convertor and a "shift kit". I run a 3.91 gear, super stock springs, and MP 50/50 shocks. Front shocks are Comp Eng adjustables with stock torsion bars. This combo went 12.80's and was super reliable. I have since put on some Edelbrock heads, 1.7 roller rockers, and a 100 shot of nitrous. Best time to date is 11.41 @ 119 mph. Good luck and have fun, :thumbup:
Randy

 

[moper]

Not sure about "better machining". Not sure how pistons are "set to 0 deck".
I presume the 10.5 comp 340 could breathe a little harder and make use of the slightly larger valves so it makes sense to me if I raise the compression and the heads are being rebuilt anyway to enlarge the valve. I wonder though if this would only help at high rpm (good for track time) and hurt low rpm performance (not so good on the street).
I'm guessing 10:1 is around the upper limit for todays's pump gas? Chamber size would be per factory J head.

What he means is, a shop can do a real performance enhancing rebuild, or they can do a basic rebuild. Things like boring, honing, and turning a crank and valve job are basic rebuilding things. Things like square decking, using top of the line equipment, align honing, cylinder honing using a torque plate, degreeing the camshaft, 5 angle cutter type valve jobs, ccing the heads and correcting valve train geometry..Those are the areas that a performance shop build up will get you. It costs more, but results in smoother, more powerful, and longer lasting engines. Square decking and setting the block's cylinder head surface exactly where the factory blueprint puts it, results in 0 deck with the right piston. The process also allows for any piston (or almost any...lol) to be set that way. As far as cylinder head theory, there are as many ideas as there are guys doing the work. Personally, I use the largest intake valve I can. Because at low lifts, the more curtain area you have, the better. But, I dont make huge ports, because that does seriously hurt low end power with short stock strokes. I like static ratios in the 10:1 area with iron heads and pump gas. With careful cam choice, you can go higher, but it's not really worth the hassle. The biggest thing is, by skimping what I consider the mandatory machining, You sacrifice a lot in the resulting power. So bigger cams, bigger heads, etc are all employed, when in reality, better quality work and more mild parts would have performed more than adequately had things been "right".

 

[D-mailman]

1972 Duster 340. .030 over, speed pro forged pistons, steel crank(stock), Hamburger windage tray and 8 qt pan(run 7 qts), stock balancer, stock rods, CR is a true 9.02 to 1, 915 'J' heads ported (254 cfm @ .550), Mopar solid 284/.528 camshaft, installed @ 110, actual lift with lash = .538 as installed with Harlin Sharp rockers 1.65 ratio, 5/16 Comp chrome moly pushrods, Edelbrock true roller time chain and gears, Holley strip Dominator single plain, Holley 4779 750 DP, 1" open phenolic spacer, crancase evacuation system (moroso), Hooker Super comps 1 3/4", 727 with 10" TCI 3500 (stalled 3200) in my car, 4.30 gears, stock suspension with the front half clamped and the rear section open, stock wheels, Indy street tires, six-pac scoop with air box sealed to hood,(worth .20), all steel body and full interior. Would run 11.70's everyday, Best was 11.61 @ 114.47, 7.50 @ 92 in 1/8, 1.66 60ft. Ok on the street but didn't pull hard untill 3500. Wanted more street manners so I changed cam to XE275HL, Manifold to RPM Air Gap, changed rockers to Crane 1.6 ductile iron, Carb to Holley 3310 750 Vacuum sec, and 3.91 gears. Now runs 12.25 @ 110.71, and 7.85 @ 87 in 1/8. with 1.77 60ft. And is so much easier to live with on street. really turn key now not much to do other than change oil. Just thought I would throw that out there. Terry.

 

[383man]

Back in 1978 I built this 340 Dart Sport for my buddy. It was a 1970 340 I rebuilt to stock specs and did a nice 3 angle valve job with stock valves. No porting at all but I milled the heads to get a true 10.5 comp. I used all the stock valvetrain but added a MP .474-280 cam. It had 1-5/8 headers and I used the stock electronic dist and recurved it. Had a LD-318 intake with a 650 DP. Rear was an 8-1/4 with 4.10's and G/60 street tires as we did not have drag radials in the 70's. I also had a stock 904 and convertor from a 318 Dart. The car would spin the tires bad so I had to walk it out without spinning the tires and ran 13.49 @ 105. Yes thats 105 mph which is easy 12.80's on a good sticky tires. It was a basically stock 340 with the MP .474 cam and some bolt on's. 340's run hard and like was said a good basic mild 340 combo will tap the high 12's with a good fine tune using headers with the right convertor and gears. Good luck with your combo. Ron

 

[Idaho]

Sanguine: you'd be pushing it with 10:1 compression on todays fuel...unless you had a large enough cam to bleed it off it will probably detonate w/ 91 octane

Dartin: My 340 is .030" over with a true 10:1 compression,

moper: I like static ratios in the 10:1 area with iron heads and pump gas.

383 man: Back in 1978 I built this 340 Dart Sport for my buddy. It was a 1970 340 I rebuilt to stock specs and did a nice 3 angle valve job with stock valves. No porting at all but I milled the heads to get a true 10.5 comp.

Thanks for providing more input. I've asked a question with lots of potential answers but I'm learning from the responses. It seems I might achieve the goal with a well built 68-70 factory spec 340, headers and the right drivetrain combo. One important question will be whether to build to the factory 10.5:1 compression ratio as it has to run on pump gas.

Moper, your reply helps clarify the machining issue. I've located a local machinist who apparently has extensive experience with race engines who should be able to do the job. I'll just have to see HOW expensive this will be (anyone have a rough idea what to expect?). I imagine this person will have a big influence on what I do but I'd like to be somewhat educated before I talk to him so this is helping. I've also ordered the Mopar performance secrets book.

Taking the advice to keep it simple, perhaps I can narrow this down a bit by asking, in addition to good machining and headers, is there an engine upgrade I would likely regret not doing during the rebuild?

 

[383man]

On the comp I would shoot for no more then 10.0 on iron heads. If it is a good quench eng then you might get away up to 10.5 and still use 93 pump. But you will need to check it as alot of the Mopar engines were a bit lower then advertised comp. Most 440's rated at 10.0 were in the 9.0 to 9.5 area so definetly you will need to check and machine for the right comp. Ron

 

[moper]

Like what Ron said...compression is a combination of factors. Piston part number has a very small part of that. Flat tops can be 8:1 or less, or 11.5:1, depnding on the rest of the pakcage, and the guy setting it up. So, when I say "10:1 is what I like", I'm referring to real calculated static compression ratio. Pisotns you see that say "10.5:1 with 72cc heads" are not. They are whatever they end up at, when the block is decked, and with whatever the head chamber size ends up at after grinding or replacing valves and doing a vlave job and cleanup cut on the heads, and with whatever head gasket your builder uses. I've seen many small blocks with the old school TRW "10.5:1 stock replacement forged pistons" that calculate to 9:1 when the rest is taken into account thru measurement. Again, it comes back to a complete rebuild with an eye on making solid dependable performance, or a rebuild. I've priced a couple small blocks this week, and depending on what you start with, around me, the costs were around $4000-6500. Depending on cubic inch and options. None of these are less than 400hp tho.

 

[Idaho]

I've priced a couple small blocks this week, and depending on what you start with, around me, the costs were around $4000-6500. Depending on cubic inch and options. None of these are less than 400hp tho.

The $4000-6500 number is well above what I would anticipate putting into my engine. I like the idea of a well machined engine but it will depend on the price. Of course I'm not shooting for 400 hp and I assume that price includes a lot of performance parts, which I don't likely need to acheive my goal. I'll have to see what the local guy says, and also see if I can do the assembling myself or if the machinst wants to assemble. Dollars spent is not my absolute bottom line, but I do get satisfaction from being very cost effective.

I may be off base, but whats on my mind right now is heads. It's apparent a good head rebuild is important and of course will cost some. It seems head technology has advanced, perhaps more than anything else for a carburated engine. Someone mentioned the old heads lack the newer mixing design. I've also been reading about "quench" with respect to compressioin and avoidance of detonation. I wonder if the newer aftermarket heads are designed with advantages that would make it worthwhile to put the money I would spend on a head rebuild toward an aftermarket head of newer design.

Arlie

 

[AdamR]

A set of Performer RPM heads probably wouldnt be much more then what it will cost to redo the stock heads. I would however have the Eddys checked out, especially guide clearance. I think the best thing for you to do however is come up with a price range and talk to a few shops. See what they can do for X amount of money. Edlebrocks will cost you $1200 before having them looked at and arent needed to run high 12s. But if your heads need $800 worth of valves, springs and machine work it may be worth spending.

 

[Idaho]

I see that's the new price for a pair of these (around $630 apiece).
I'm guessing there is definite advantage to these over the stock J heads and if that's the case, I'd pay something extra over the price of rebuilding mine.

I'm not sure why you're saying have them checked since they're new.

I'd like to learn more about what the actual advantage would be. I understand an aluminim head allows for more compression without detonation (I think due to better heat transfer?) so this alone is significant. I could not find actual flow numbers for these or the stock heads but I'm guessing these may flow better since the ports are machined.

I assume I can use the stock intake and rocker arm setup so I'm not forced into buying more parts to go with them.

I wonder about durability.

I've had it in my head that I'd like to pick one upgrade from the stock setup where I can transfer rebuilding costs into the upgrade and this would seem to fit.

I appreciate the help I'm getting, and hope I'm not asking too many questions!

 

[AdamR]

I see that's the new price for a pair of these (around $630 apiece).
I'm guessing there is definite advantage to these over the stock J heads and if that's the case, I'd pay something extra over the price of rebuilding mine.

They have a better combustion chamber, better ports,2.02 valves, are lighter and are 30 years newer for starters

I'm not sure why you're saying have them checked since they're new.

I have been told that the valve guide clearance is to tight and they will need to be honed.

I'd like to learn more about what the actual advantage would be. I understand an aluminim head allows for more compression without detonation (I think due to better heat transfer?) so this alone is significant. I could not find actual flow numbers for these or the stock heads but I'm guessing these may flow better since the ports are machined.

Yes the aluminum will dissipate heat faster allowing more compression to be used. I would keep it around 10.5:1 for pump gas. Check out http://www.shadydellspeedshop.com/index.htm for flow numbers

I assume I can use the stock intake and rocker arm setup so I'm not forced into buying more parts to go with them.

yes they use all stock parts

I wonder about durability.

I havent heard of any durability problems with them

I've had it in my head that I'd like to pick one upgrade from the stock setup where I can transfer rebuilding costs into the upgrade and this would seem to fit.

I appreciate the help I'm getting, and hope I'm not asking too many questions!

thats why were here

 

[Idaho]

What the heck, I'll post some numbers.

From Edelbrock's web site:

#60179,
.100" 69/64
.200" 129/108
.300" 188/142
.400" 232/171
.500" 249/183
.600" 251/190

Here's #s according to http://www.shadydellspeedshop.com/index.htm
for a J head with intake opened up to 2.08".

FLOW #’s

LIFT------ASCAST---------PORTED
.100”----62.1/46.6---------62.1/51.8
.200”----112.1/99.4-------135.2/103.5
.300”----156.6/128.3-----198.7/135.2
.400”----193.2/137.3-----239.8/158.7
.450”----200.1/138.3-----253.9/169.7
.500”----200.1/139.7-----258.4/182.9
.550”----200.1/140.8-----264.9/186.3
.600”----200.8/141.5-----254.6/186.3

All #’s at 28” of Water
2.02”/1.60” MP Stainless valves

It would appear that the Eddy flows slightly better than a worked over J head. If I assume this is their level 4 porting, the cost for a complete rebuild including their required 5-angle valve job would be substantially more than
a new set of Eddies.

Then there's this quote from the Edelbrock spec page which I take to say that the flow numbers can't predict which head will perform better:

2. Bigger is not always better! A large port doesn’t always mean more power. This is especially true with street heads and in some cases, race heads. Velocity is just as important as flow. A smaller port volume generally equates to higher velocity for better street performance. The speed of the mixture determines how tightly the combustion chamber is packed. The more tightly packed the combustion chamber, the more pressure is developed when the mixture is ignited, pushing the piston with more force for more power. For example: A large port and a big flow number at 0.600" lift means low velocity (especially off-idle to 3500 rpm) and results in less throttle response. For the street, velocity is the key to overall performance.

3. Compare peak flow and low lift flow. Cylinder head buyers have a tendency to only consider peak flow numbers. It’s important to look at
all the flow numbers, from .100" to peak, in order to determine the performance level of a head.

4. Type of valve influences flow. The type of valves used will influence how well a port flows. A valve with an undercut stem is less of a restriction to flow and will allow a port to flow more, filling the cylinder better and producing more power.

5. Consider this fact for street applications. Generally, in a street application, the smaller the valve diameter, the better the velocity and flow will be with
the correctly sized port. This holds true for both the intake and the exhaust ports. When you can equal the flow of a larger port and larger valve with a smaller port and smaller valve, you have a much more efficient port, which will generally make more power and use less fuel.

I don't wish to initiate controversy so I won't quote these points but shadydell does indicate that Eddy heads have valve guides too tight, and head mating surfaces that need machining to seal. This is somewhat baffling to me (I'm guessing Edelbrock might disagree).

I'm kinda running with the head upgrade idea but am still open to ideas about what is the best upgrade (if any).

 

[moper]

Arlie, those prices are for top quality work, and good parts. Things I change, that many dont include the harmonic balancer, the oil pump drive ($65 from MP...), the fuel pump eccentric, pushrods, and rockers. I change these because they are worn, in many cases, they'd be fine at stock levels. But what you are asking is 140% of a stock buildup. And failures cause more expense when you are supposed to be enjoying the new engine. The difference between stock and "racey" (which i refer to as quality parts) can be substantial, but in the quotes' cases, they are hydraulic cams, MP stamped rocker assemblies, etc. I want a new engine. I dont want a slightly freshened engine. In the cases where that is what's desired, I'd rather not rebuild it, and simply use bolt ons. But that lack of expense translates directly into lost performance and lost longevity. So, in truth, perhaps what you should be indicating, is your budget and current parts situation (do you own a suitable engine core?) before all else. Just for comparison, thru my shop, a completely stock parts engine (318 in this example) was $3300 out the door last year. Not much of a savings really, when the $4000 360 is 40% more powerful for $700.

As far as the "why correct brand new heads"... The whole reason for building a high performance engine is to make all the parts fit perfectly, and perform better than a factory job. Edelbrock heads are assembled at a factory, and suffer from the same issues associated with std employees. Guides are usually too tight (not all, but 3-5 out of 16), seats may be out of round (more rare, but 1-2 perset that are "out" more than .005"), and in a few cases, incorrect or incorrectly installed springs/retainers/locks all are reasons to spend the $200 over the cost to have them gone thru. As far as Ryan, if he is runnign Cometics or any other MLS design gasket, Edelbrock's surface finish is too rough for them to work propery, so they have to be milled for the right finish. Another example of snowballing when in a rebuild project. The "might as wells" will get you if you're not prepared.

 

[Idaho]

I think I get most of what you're saying.

I didn't realize you actually are in the rebuilding business. I assumed you were talking about building your own stuff. If I were in the business I'd want to do it right and charge accordingly as well. I'm sure the equipment required does not come cheap.

As far as a budget goes, for me it's an evolving thing. I intend to figure out what a quality rebuild like what you refer to will cost locally and compare to one that's well done but without the extra machining, then decide which way makes most sense to me. I don't doubt the value of the high end rebuild but I doubt I'll spend $4000 plus just because I know I can have a lot of fun without investing that much.

Yes I have a core 340. As far as I know it's stock and was smoking. It turns over. Of course it's possible it's junk. If so I'm back to square one with what to use but there's something appealing to me about the 340 (likely because a friend had one in a Duster, and they are a purebred performance engine) so I might go looking for another if necessary. Also, one of the cars was a 340 car so it may add value to stay with that.

I'm a little fuzzy on what the 140% refers to. As for $700 for 40% power gain that's a no-brainer.

I'm sure you guys know your stuff about the Eddy heads. It's just a surprise to me that there would be such a quality control problem.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[moper]

My job is a project manager for St paul Travelers. I build engines for me, and others, along with pretty much anything else on mopars only. I've driven $200 engines for years with no problems, and I know how to get results with any budget. There are always ways...lol. But your post was about a rebuild of your 340. I am simply trying to relate what a performance rebuilt 340 will, or IMO should cost. If you dotn need the work, or dont want to spend the money, the effects are you lose the goal you had inmind. Or at least you might. One of the cars I ran for 3 years, passed emmissions twice in CT, and had no trouble with was a ring and bearing 340 I bought for $300 in '88. A cam, valve springs, and some tuning work and I was running 13.2s easy, able to run in the 12s flogging it. Dut, would I do that even for myself anymore, no. To me, it's just not worth doing things more than once. My time, or anyones, is too valuable, and the expense is more than I want to pay. Not bashing, not criticizing, just pointing stuff out. Part of my job at Travelers is to look ahead, and make sure things are done once, and right, and on budget.

 

[Dustpan]

Back in 1970, I bought a new 340, 4-speed Duster (b-5/b-5, bench seat, manual steering/4-piston disk brakes, 3.55 suregrip). With just a re-curve on the dual point dist. and a little playing with the jets on the stock avs carb. I ran 13.80's and 13.90's with the factory E-70 polyglass tires.
A year later, when I put a 440 in the car, I was told, by my machinist, that my 340 was a six-pack motor with single 4 barrel intake on it.

Seems like it wouldn't take much more to get it to where you want it to run.

 

[demon seed]

Hey Idaho, you're getting some damn good advice here, these guys are good. One thing more that may have been covered but I missed it, is the 340 you're going to use should be completely disassembled and inspected up the ying yang before you decide it's ultimate fate. Judging by you're threads you can easily do the tear down and cleaning yourself but then a good shop will be needed for the crack inspections of the block and rotating assembly. Just my 2 cents.