How to determine the needed stall speed?

[magnumdust]

What do you guys use? All i could find was that you wanted 500-750rpm below the peak torque curve or go by the duration of the cam.

One site claimed that under 220 you don't need more than 2500.

So my cam is spec'd at I224/E23-, so should i be shooting for the 2500-2800 range?

 

[340sFastback]

If you want the right converter have a reputable company like Ultimate Converter Concepts build one for your combination. The off the shelf units won't stall at the advertised stall on every car. A high quality converter will make a huge difference so that is an area you want to spend the money.

 

[wheelsup73]

For a drag car I generally like the stall speed to be 1200 to 1500 RPM less than my shift point. My dart gets shifted at 7000 and the stall speed is 5800. I ran a 4000 stall when the car was street driven with the 360 motor. I run a continental converter.
[ame="http://youtu.be/t0OVIsU01mg"]302 Found[/ame]

 

[abodyjoe]

Best bet is to call good converter companies like dynamic, ultimate and ptc and talk to them about your combo and intended use. Then whichever you feel most comfortable with order one that is built for you and your spec.

 

[Cudafever]

X2
My converter was a custom build, BUT it was a cheap $150.00 one.(stock 11"converter tweaked) Was built to stall at 3000 NOT! Pulled it back out and and told him it stalling at 2200. he re did it and now it stalls at 2800.He said i would have to go to a 10" to get any more out of it.
I'm sure there is a lot left on the table because of it!
and is why i can't brake a 2.2 60' time, even with 4:56 gears. ](*,)

 

[UOP]

What do you guys use? All i could find was that you wanted 500-750rpm below the peak torque curve or go by the duration of the cam.

One site claimed that under 220 you don't need more than 2500.

So my cam is spec'd at I224/E23-, so should i be shooting for the 2500-2800 range?

There are a lot of factors that determine stall speed. Yes the cam is one, but you must also consider weight, gear, and what you plan on doing with the car. As an example, I have a relatively small cam in my car (216/224) but my converter is set to stall at 3400, roughly 400 below peak torque.

 

[magnumdust]

There are a lot of factors that determine stall speed. Yes the cam is one, but you must also consider weight, gear, and what you plan on doing with the car. As an example, I have a relatively small cam in my car (216/224) but my converter is set to stall at 3400, roughly 400 below peak torque.

well i'm looking for a street/strip setup on my duster and i'm wondering if i went too high on the stall(3000)

I mean going off of this website:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=621&sb=0

I should be around 2500 on the stall. That cam is slightly more aggressive than mine and i have basically everything stated in those recommendations.

I'm rethinking my car's setup and trying to go for something with really good streetability and spray it into the 12s/high 11s(or turbo i feel very very bold)

 

[Bad Sport]

I will parrot what others have said, call a reputable converter builder and give them ALL of the specs for your car AND it's intended usage and they will build you one to fit your needs.

They will want to know cam specs, rear gears, weight of the car, intended usage etc.

The converter will make or break your combo in the performance area. Remember you get what you pay for. I have known several people to buy an off the shelf converter, put it in and it would not function the proper way. Now they have to start all over again.

 

[crackedback]

Here's the issue with the recommendation on cam site...

What size engine is it going in!

Put that cam in a 273 and you'll need a 4K converter, put it in a 408-416 and you could run a stock-2500.

What your intended use is will also play a part. If mileage is a concern, it's going to require a tighter cruise set up. Full out racing, like wheelsup suggested.

A good converter is worth every dollar you spend. It's also the one place most people skimp...

 

[abodyjoe]

I'm rethinking my car's setup and trying to go for something with really good streetability and spray it into the 12s/high 11s(or turbo i feel very very bold)

Too much still open to allow anyone to choose a converter for you. You will need to decide exactly what your doing before you choose a converter...

Also there is a ton of old head garbage information out there.. The days of no more then a 3000 stall for the street and stupid things like that are over. Converter technology has come a long long way. These days you can have the best of both worlds... Hell I was running a 9 1/2" 3800 stall on the street and it drove like a stock converter while street driving but at the track it was like being shot out of a cannon...


But again, you need to know exactly what direction your going with the build first.. When you order one be 100% honest about your combo and just as important 100% honest about your intended use. If your not 100% honest about either you will not be happy with the converter. That I promise...

 

[abodyjoe]

A good converter is worth every dollar you spend. It's also the one place most people skimp...

Isn't that the truth.. Thousands into a motor and trans then they put some garbage mp 175k converter in the car.. And then wonder why it doesn't run like they thought it would..lol

 

[longarm]

(I'm rethinking my car's setup and trying to go for something with really good streetability and spray it into the 12s/high 11s(or turbo i feel very very bold)

If your thinking of spray or any power adder it changes everything.
You need to decide your final design/use front to back , then decide
your stall.
If your not going for a goal, you might as well buy cheap everything
and throw it all together, matching parts to work together is the only
real way to build a consistent, fast machine.

 

[UOP]

well i'm looking for a street/strip setup on my duster and i'm wondering if i went too high on the stall(3000)

Personally, I wouldn't go any lower. Heck, I'm thinking of pulling mine and having it loosened to 4000 over the winter. If you've already got a 3000 stall (what size btw, 11"?) then rock it. I don't know if anybody has mentioned it yet, but ditch the radiator cooler in the radiator and get a good aftermarket unit, as big as you can fit/afford. You can't have one too big.

 

[magnumdust]

Personally, I wouldn't go any lower. Heck, I'm thinking of pulling mine and having it loosened to 4000 over the winter. If you've already got a 3000 stall (what size btw, 11"?) then rock it. I don't know if anybody has mentioned it yet, but ditch the radiator cooler in the radiator and get a good aftermarket unit, as big as you can fit/afford. You can't have one too big.

well this where i fit the stereotype mentioned in this thread several times. I cheaped out getting my magnum swap together.

The converter is a low mileage PTC i got from a member on here for 200 bucks. I'm not sure on the size, but the member stated it "flashed to 3k"(looking back at the PM), so it may be lower than a 3k stall, which now has me worried that maybe my transmission is in way worse condition than i thought. If the converter isnt a 3k stall then my 3rd gear is badly slipping on the highway. Because past threads& discussion have felt that my highway rpm's at 65mph were about on target for 3.55 gears and a 3k stall converter.

 

[bad440]

Here's the issue with the recommendation on cam site...

What size engine is it going in!

Put that cam in a 273 and you'll need a 4K converter, put it in a 408-416 and you could run a stock-2500.

What your intended use is will also play a part. If mileage is a concern, it's going to require a tighter cruise set up. Full out racing, like wheelsup suggested.

A good converter is worth every dollar you spend. It's also the one place most people skimp...

truer words never spoken...didnt chrysler basically invent the stall speed converter?why do they cost twice as much as for ours as the other guys?220 60 foot with 456 gears?is it a four banger?:wack::wack:

 

[UOP]

well this where i fit the stereotype mentioned in this thread several times. I cheaped out getting my magnum swap together.

The converter is a low mileage PTC i got from a member on here for 200 bucks. I'm not sure on the size, but the member stated it "flashed to 3k"(looking back at the PM), so it may be lower than a 3k stall, which now has me worried that maybe my transmission is in way worse condition than i thought. If the converter isnt a 3k stall then my 3rd gear is badly slipping on the highway. Because past threads& discussion have felt that my highway rpm's at 65mph were about on target for 3.55 gears and a 3k stall converter.

The converter will slip going down the highway, and will always feel loose, hence the need for a nice big trans cooler. That's just the way it goes with looser converters, and the size does matter. An 11" converter will (usually) feel looser than a 9.5" converter set to stall at 3000.