how to re-fresh 5.7 Hemi

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did you use a computer controlled tranny with this conversion ???? or an old school 904/727 /518 ?? the computer need to be reconfigured not to see out put shaft speed if not using a modern trans,,,

ive been digging in to this and it gets nuts trying to convert it all
 
Yes, I'm using the factory 545RFE trans that came with the engine. It is controlled by the same computer that controls the engine. I had to do a lot of fabrication to make it fit, but I'm hoping havin the overdrive will be worth it. I have had it running and checked to make sure it will at least shift into gear and turn the output shaft, but I have a lot of paint and body work to do so I am quite a ways from getting it on the road.

Patience and the factory service manual were key to me getting it to work. I also just couldn't afford to spend over a grand on a wiring harness.
 
i agree a complete donor vehicle is the best way to do it,,, piecing it together is to crazy and costly,,, if you go to street and performance web site,, there are some videos on there they converted a street rod over,, and they tell you a lot of info you wont find in the service manual,,such as the brake switch, that you CAN NOT re use,, its calibrated one time only,,and you will need one when useing all the stock stuff it controls the cruise control shut off, they show you how to calibrate it to your brake pedal movement,,take a lok you will see what im talking about,,, its on the 33 plymouth build videos,,,free on there site to watch,,
 
392Stu said:
Despite common opinion the head bolts are not torque to yeild and can be reused also. If you torque them more than a few times I'd replace them though.
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I'm not doubting you at all, but where did you hear this from? I've been trying to figure out all the hardware I need to replace to get my engine back together and the fewer pieces the better at this point. Don't have $300 for head studs right now and even though new factory pieces are only ~$40 the more I can save the better. I don't suppose I'm fortunate enough that the main bolts are the same way? Saw the torque spec was a quarter turn after some value (similar to heads), but having a hard time finding OEM replacements.
 
392Stu is Stu of Inertia Motorsports. He has built more than a few of these engines, so he may know what he is talking about by way of experience. He has told me the same thing on several different occasions..... But he says that the rod bolts should not be re-used. I believe ARP has Wavelock 2000's for them.

Did you ever contact Inertia about the thier spartan cam with stock heads? Might inquire about the bolt issues/concerns too.

Myself, I plan to re-use the stock headbolts. My engine only has 9,000 miles or less and has never been apart. Only reason heads are coming off is to replace MDS lifters.
 
Yeah, I had talked to Stu a little regarding cam choices. My overall goal was a set of their big valve heads with an SRT Max cam eventually and ARPs throughout, but I just don't have the money to do it all at once. Figured I'd just get the engine fixed up with stock parts (dropped an intake seat and took out a piston) for now to get it in the car and save up. Then when I had the money to do everything I really want to do I'd just pull the engine and put on all the parts. I had read for sure in a service manual that the rod bolts were TTY, but I still haven't found any info regarding the mains. Thought about shooting him an email, but figured I'd ask here first incase someone knew, hated to keep bugging Stu about little things.
 
Stu, I believe you quoted 5.7/6.1L specials on porting and valve trains ? From $1,857 down to $1,575, based on volume ? Stage I, II or III ? I can buy,new bare, "eagle" 5.7 heads,(small chamber), for a good price. Building a 6.1L on E85 fuel, lots of compression. Is this special still on ? Thanks, Art G.
 
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