How to Remove Pit Marks in my 68 Tail Panel

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SSSN8KE

SSSN8KE

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Hello Everyone
I’m attempting to restore my 68 GTS Tail Panel. Overall it’s in great condition. I have some pit marks at either end of the panel. You can’t feel them with your finger but you can see them. Is it better to file them out or sand them out? I’m definitely a rookie at this. Thanks for your input and guidance.
Stu.

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That is anodized aluminum. If they aren't too deep you can strip the anodizing and sand them out. Finish by polishing the raw aluminum or send it off to be re coated.
 
toolmanmike said:
That is anodized aluminum. If they aren't too deep you can strip the anodizing and sand them out. Finish by polishing the raw aluminum or send it off to be re coated.
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You can’t feel them with your finger tip so they can’t be that deep. Thanks!
 
I agree with toolmanmike.I'm sure they can polished out after removing the anodizing.
Only thing is you have to strip all the anodizing and paint before you can reanodize after you have polished it.
There is a company in Cambridge that does anodizing and the will be re anodizing my grille and bezels once I have them ready

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My buddy block sanded and polished nearly all the trim on my car, both aluminum and stainless. He didn't strip the parts, but essentially sanded it off by hand.

My one year only '68 grill surrounds had been smashed virtually flat from years of getting too close to walls etc. They are hard to come by, so I sent them to these guys. I had them restore the surrounds, polish the headlight buckets and some other small work. I painted and assembled them myself, which saved about half their full restoration price.

They are not cheap, but I swear you could send them a smashed aluminum drink can and they could restore it to un-smashed condition.

King of Trim | Quality automotive trim restoration

kingoftrim.com kingoftrim.com

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hemidart67 said:
I agree with toolmanmike.I'm sure they can polished out after removing the anodizing.
Only thing is you have to strip all the anodizing and paint before you can reanodize after you have polished it.
There is a company in Cambridge that does anodizing and the will be re anodizing my grille and bezels once I have them ready

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Can you tell me the name of the anodizing company in Cambridge. Thank you for the info.
 
hemidart67 said:
I agree with toolmanmike.I'm sure they can polished out after removing the anodizing.
Only thing is you have to strip all the anodizing and paint before you can reanodize after you have polished it.
There is a company in Cambridge that does anodizing and the will be re anodizing my grille and bezels once I have them ready

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Is the sequence to completely strip the anodizing, repair the pits, then repaint the black, then re-anodize over the paint?
 
jbc426 said:
My buddy block sanded and polished nearly all the trim on my car, both aluminum and stainless. He didn't strip the parts, but essentially sanded it off by hand.

My one year only '68 grill surrounds had been smashed virtually flat from years of getting too close to walls etc. They are hard to come by, so I sent them to these guys. I had them restore the surrounds, polish the headlight buckets and some other small work. I painted and assembled them myself, which saved about half their full restoration price.

They are not cheap, but I swear you could send them a smashed aluminum drink can and they could restore it to un-smashed condition.

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Your trim pieces are truly amazing! King of Trim wants $1,500 to restore the tail panel, paint is extra plus the time frame is 4-6 months
 
May sound crazy, but wax it out with Anti-Seize (silver).

The silver in it will embed in the pits and you can polish it up with a terry cloth towel. Just like waxing out the aluminum portion of the tail panel, (but not the painted areas).

Will need to renew it from time to time. Did the same trick with rust pitted chrome wheels.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
George Jets said:
May sound crazy, but wax it out with Anti-Seize (silver).

The silver in it will embed in the pits and you can polish it up with a terry cloth towel. Just like waxing out the aluminum portion of the tail panel, (but not the painted areas).

Will need to renew it from time to time. Did the same trick with rust pitted chrome wheels.


☆☆☆☆☆
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Now that is something I have never heard of. Thank you for replying, much appreciated
 
SSSN8KE said:
Your trim pieces are truly amazing! King of Trim wants $1,500 to restore the tail panel, paint is extra plus the time frame is 4-6 months
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I believe it. They wanted $4k to do both surrounds complete, pre-covid price. I paid them $2k to re-do the surrounds with no-re-anodizing. It's been a number of years now, and they still look like they do in the previously posted photos.

I had no choice but to save up and pay. It was the final trim-work my car needed, and I feel it was worth it. They are made of un-obtainium after all.

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jbc426 said:
I believe it. They wanted $4k to do both surrounds complete, pre-covid price. I paid them $2k to re-do the surrounds with no-re-anodizing. It's been a number of years now, and they still look like they do in the previously posted photos.

I had no choice but to save up and pay. It was the final trim-work my car needed, and I feel it was worth it. They are made of un-obtainium after all.

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They look fantastic! I’m curious because you didn’t re-anodize did you consider putting on some clear coat?
 
SSSN8KE said:
They look fantastic! I’m curious because you didn’t re-anodize did you consider putting on some clear coat?
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None of my aluminum trim has been re-anodized, and it looks great after 7 or so years after being polished. It's one of my daily drivers, and I've done nothing but wipe them down when I wipe down the car with detail spray and a micro-fiber towel. It simply doesn't need it, as far as I can tell.
 
jbc426 said:
None of my aluminum trim has been re-anodized, and it looks great after 7 or so years after being polished. It's one of my daily drivers, and I've done nothing but wipe them down when I wipe down the car with detail spray and a micro-fiber towel. It simply doesn't need it, as far as I can tell.
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Wow that’s great that you’ve had no issues after 7 years that’ encouraging. Sounds like it’s real easy to keep them looking great. What’s the best time to call you? I will call you in the next day or two.
 
SSSN8KE said:
Wow that’s great that you’ve had no issues after 7 years that’ encouraging. Sounds like it’s real easy to keep them looking great. What’s the best time to call you? I will call you in the next day or two.
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Daytime on any day that ends in "y".
 
SSSN8KE said:
Is the sequence to completely strip the anodizing, repair the pits, then repaint the black, then re-anodize over the paint?
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Anodizing is a conversion process to aluminum. It converts the surface of the aluminum to a specific type of aluminum oxide. If you paint it, the anodizing can't get under the paint to convert the surface. You would not want that.

For those that don't re-anodize, the aluminum will re-oxidize after a period of time in air, but it's different than the oxide structure in anodizing. Anodizing is probably more durable for a street car, but for our classic cars that don't get driven 12 months a year, get washed regular, get waxed, etc, regular oxide is probably fine.

If you want those parts dyed a certain color, the anodizer can do it. This is a small spectrum of the colors available.

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jos51700 said:
Anodizing is a conversion process to aluminum. It converts the surface of the aluminum to a specific type of aluminum oxide. If you paint it, the anodizing can't get under the paint to convert the surface. You would not want that.

For those that don't re-anodize, the aluminum will re-oxidize after a period of time in air, but it's different than the oxide structure in anodizing. Anodizing is probably more durable for a street car, but for our classic cars that don't get driven 12 months a year, get washed regular, get waxed, etc, regular oxide is probably fine.

If you want those parts dyed a certain color, the anodizer can do it. This is a small spectrum of the colors available.

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jos51700 thank you for chiming in. Great explanation. I am going to look into anodizing and the options. Thanks again
 
try scrunching some aluminum kitchen foil into a ball, dipping in water and rubbing it on the pitted areas. works on chrome so worth a try as it's virtually free.
 
SSSN8KE said:
jos51700 thank you for chiming in. Great explanation. I am going to look into anodizing and the options. Thanks again
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Fyi, the factory pieces were 'clear anodized' if you call some shops. That's what to ask for if you don't want colors.
 
mygasser said:
try scrunching some aluminum kitchen foil into a ball, dipping in water and rubbing it on the pitted areas. works on chrome so worth a try as it's virtually free.
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Great idea I hadn’t thought of that. Much appreciated
 
I just got the anodizing off yesterday. I had no idea it would become “milky white” in appearance.

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