How to remove the starter?

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7milesout

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Guys,

I'm pulling the starter on the 72 Plymouth Scamp. I'm about to have the whole exhaust replaced, with headers. So I'm going back in with a high torque mini starter. Last night I got the car lifted up, and battery disconnected. And took a look around underneath to see what it entailed, and just let it cool off as I had been driving it. Tonight I hope to remove it.

I can remove the terminals, and the bolts and get the starter off, but getting it down past the exhaust pipe, torsion bar, and not damaging the transmission cooler lines ... well, I don't see how it's coming out. I had the front tire steered to the right also, I think that gives the most clearance.

Somebody clue me in. I don't want to fight it any more than I have to, or damage a transmission cooler line.

Thanks!


7milesout
 
Pulling the pitman and idler arm will provide a lot more clearance.
 
CUDA69 said:
Pulling the pitman and idler arm will provide a lot more clearance.
Click to expand...

Yep, I loosen the driver's side header and swing the idler arm out of the way. Still need to fiddle, wiggle and finesse the starter out, but it will come out.
 
seeing as you're replacing the entire exhaust - take it out first.. manifolds and all - or at least drop the pipes
 
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Try cranking the steering wheel all the way over to one side (I forgot if it was to the left or right) and there should be enough room to remove the original size one.
 
Thanks for the advice guys! I will battle the pitman arms and idler arms likely tomorrow morning.

I'm having the exhaust done. I'm buying all the pieces, because I want what I want. TTi header, AEM Wideband, X-Pipe, Borla Mufflers, pencil tips. But I don't have the time or expertise to assemble all that stuff nicely. If it did it, it would be a hot cobbled leaky mess. And take me a couple months of fighting, cussing, throwing tools ... naaaah, let someone who's good at it and has a lift do it. So, I'm outsourcing the assembly to a shop that I've seen many pictures, and the work looks great, and very good reviews.

If I were doing the exhaust myself, I would just take it off to get the starter out. But I will leave it on to get it to the shop. Hoping to get it the exhaust done next week. If push comes to shove, I may cut off the exhaust at the starter, and use earplugs to get it to his shop! :D

Sound reasonable?


7milesout
 
7milesout said:
Thanks for the advice guys! I will battle the pitman arms and idler arms likely tomorrow morning.

I'm having the exhaust done. I'm buying all the pieces, because I want what I want. TTi header, AEM Wideband, X-Pipe, Borla Mufflers, pencil tips. But I don't have the time or expertise to assemble all that stuff nicely. If it did it, it would be a hot cobbled leaky mess. And take me a couple months of fighting, cussing, throwing tools ... naaaah, let someone who's good at it and has a lift do it. So, I'm outsourcing the assembly to a shop that I've seen many pictures, and the work looks great, and very good reviews.

If I were doing the exhaust myself, I would just take it off to get the starter out. But I will leave it on to get it to the shop. Hoping to get it the exhaust done next week. If push comes to shove, I may cut off the exhaust at the starter, and use earplugs to get it to his shop! :D

Sound reasonable?
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so the plan is to swap out the starter now - then have the exhaust done.. beleive it or not - if everything is still original, that big ol' chunk-o-poop will come out without taking anything apart - I'm not saying it'll be easy - but it will come out
 
ScampMike said:
so the plan is to swap out the starter now - then have the exhaust done..
Click to expand...
Yes ... that is the plan.
ScampMike said:
... beleive it or not - if everything is still original, that big ol' chunk-o-poop will come out without taking anything apart - I'm not saying it'll be easy - but it will come out
Click to expand...
I'm *VERY* concerned about damaging the transmission cooler lines. They look ready-positioned to receive damage.
 
7milesout said:
Yes ... that is the plan.
I'm *VERY* concerned about damaging the transmission cooler lines. They look ready-positioned to receive damage.
Click to expand...
they have some "flex" - maybe a bungie cord or two set up to pursuade them out of the way some... it's a slow painful process anyway, so accept the fact that they are in the way and you need to figure a way around them
 
oh - if you haven't already done it, take the L front wheel off - it's not in the way of the starter - but it is in your way
 
ScampMike said:
they have some "flex" - maybe a bungie cord or two set up to pursuade them out of the way some
Click to expand...
That is an excellent idea. Will do. As for the left front wheel, I positioned the jack stands out of my way, and got up under there yesterday. The LF wheel didn't seem to be in my way, but if it turns out to be, I'll pull it off.
 
I already inquired about that. Not sure I'm at a conclusion with him on that yet.
 
It's kinda like a Rubics Cube, it will come out though. Just need to find the right wiggle. I have long tube headers on mine, and I can get the full size starter in and out without taking anything loose.

It ain't easy though.
 
Mini starter installed, as of 9:15 am. I turned the steering full lock to the right, strapped the transmission lines over a bit, unbolted it and out the original starter came. The new one went in easy enough. Got it all tightened up, battery connected turned the key to check it and it hit the flex plate perfect. It ran fast, and as Tony the tiger would say, it sounded GRRRRRRRREATE!

The mini starter is an PowerMaster XS Torque 9513.


7milesout
 
CUDA69 said:
Pulling the pitman and idler arm will provide a lot more clearance.
Click to expand...

If you turn the steering wheel, you can make enough room to get the starter out... No need to split any suspension joints and damage the boots...
 
7milesout said:
Mini starter installed, as of 9:15 am. I turned the steering full lock to the right, strapped the transmission lines over a bit, unbolted it and out the original starter came. The new one went in easy enough. Got it all tightened up, battery connected turned the key to check it and it hit the flex plate perfect. It ran fast, and as Tony the tiger would say, it sounded GRRRRRRRREATE!

The mini starter is an PowerMaster XS Torque 9513.


7milesout
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NICE!!! :thumbsup:
 
Also, a perfectly working original starter is up for grabs. I think $50 + shipping is fair. I will post this on the for sale area. But in case anyone is interested, here is a link to the pictures of the starter. I did not clean it up.

LA 360 Starter - Google Drive
 
Bad Sport said:
It's kinda like a Rubics Cube, it will come out though. Just need to find the right wiggle. I have long tube headers on mine, and I can get the full size starter in and out without taking anything loose.

It ain't easy though.
Click to expand...
What secrete is there to getting the bolt and nut off I remember you needed a supper long extension for the bolts and nuts. I need to replace mine I sure could use some help..... HELP
 
Maybe it's due to the space available in a Scamp, but I just used a box end wrench. Not wide open, and I had to fish my arm around to get ahold of the wrench, but it worked.
 
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