Howard's or Lunati

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I was considered myself great at math but how do we get from wanting to buy a $20,000 a body cruiser to needing a cam for a 318?...
I don't want a project but I do want the project of putting in a cam in a 318?...
 
j par said:
I was considered myself great at math but how do we get from wanting to buy a $20,000 a body cruiser to needing a cam for a 318?...
I don't want a project but I do want the project of putting in a cam in a 318?...
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“Internet Inebriation”? Too much Glue?
 
Yeah. Shoot it all down. I think I'm done here.
 
j par said:
I was considered myself great at math but how do we get from wanting to buy a $20,000 a body cruiser to needing a cam for a 318?...
I don't want a project but I do want the project of putting in a cam in a 318?...
Click to expand...
FYI, a project car means one that needs pretty much a complete restoration. Swapping out a cam or rebuilding the engine doesn't make the car a project car
 
Dan the man said:
FYI, a project car means one that needs pretty much a complete restoration. Swapping out a cam or rebuilding the engine doesn't make the car a project car
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I think everyone's done with you, get a car and then do your talking...
 
forphorty said:
You don't have the car yet? I think it might be a good idea to buy the car before you build a motor. You might happen to find a car that already has a decent motor that you can add a few things to.
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I built a 383 when I was 15 just to do it. It sat in the garage for a year until I found the 67 fastback project car to put it in.
The car in my avatar cost me 35 bucks in 1978. It was a complete basket case.
 
fishmens67 said:
I built a 383 when I was 15 just to do it. It sat in the garage for a year until I found the 67 fastback project car to put it in.
The car in my avatar cost me 35 bucks in 1978. It was a complete basket case.
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The op is a old man with a bad back LOL. He ain't 15 years old and this ain't 1967...
 
j par said:
The op is a old man with a bad back LOL. He ain't 15 years old and this ain't 1967...
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Old man ? That's not holding you back. :lol: :thumbsup: You and I are about the same age, your energy and dedication amazes me.
 
Dan the man said:
I don't think that you could buy one once a week unless you bought just any old thing. I don't mean to sound ignorant but I've been looking for months and I used a distance up to 200 miles from where I live and 99% where project cars, and I mentioned that I don't want a project car. If it needs minor cosmetic stuff done or interior work that's okay. I don't want a car that needs body work as I can't do that myself and it gets expensive quick. Let's be truthful here, a clean rust free "A" body is like finding a needle in a haystack. If I fly everywhere checking out cars that takes away from what I can pay for the car this is why I have to keep my search within a reasonable distance.
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Just my two cents, but I would be very careful buying a 20k a body with a recent paint job if you don't know much about body work. It is too easy to hide rust with a half assed repair. At least take someone with you that knows what they are looking at.
 
mgoblue9798 said:
Just my two cents, but I would be very careful buying a 20k a body with a recent paint job if you don't know much about body work. It is too easy to hide rust with a half assed repair. At least take someone with you that knows what they are looking at.
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Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it
 
rumblefish360 said:
You need to expand your search miles.
In a big way.
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And don't be afraid to ask any of the members here to help. I can help cover the PNW, but shipping would be another challenge. Feel free to PM me with details and parameters. With thousands of sets of eyes from your FABO family, it won't take long.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Opinions on cams are more widely carried than a room full of quack doctors. Educate yourself first.
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Dr Rumble has educated me over the years. Jim at Racer Brown is working with my machine shop. I'll never buy an off the shelf cam again.
 
70dart340 said:
Dr Rumble has educated me over the years. Jim at Racer Brown is working with my machine shop. I'll never buy an off the shelf cam again.
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Once I've done more research on camshafts, I'm thinking about using a custom grind cam. Would going with a custom grind cam be beneficial to me?
 
70dart340 said:
And don't be afraid to ask any of the members here to help. I can help cover the PNW, but shipping would be another challenge. Feel free to PM me with details and parameters. With thousands of sets of eyes from your FABO family, it won't take long.
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Something to really consider
 
Dan the man said:
Once I've done more research on camshafts, I'm thinking about using a custom grind cam. Would going with a custom grind cam be beneficial to me?
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You can have a custom camshaft built for your exact engine/transmission combination. Stroke, compression, heads,valves, and all the variables. I found out the hard way that it isn't much more than an "off the shelf" camshaft. Mopars also have a larger diameter lifter than the other "2", so you can take advantage of this feature, and tailor this to your specific build. I'm having Jim at Racer Brown build my custom camshaft for my 408. "Rumblefish" is one of many knowledgable members that can guide you in your choice. Calling "Rob" "Rumblefish", could you please help our FABO member?
 
Dan the man said:
Once I've done more research on camshafts, I'm thinking about using a custom grind cam. Would going with a custom grind cam be beneficial to me?
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Do you like to read? Either search the web for articles related to David Vizard and camshaft selection (using his name and any combination of search words relating to picking a camshaft) and and/or seek out this book:
E13ADA3E-6A00-41CC-A08D-15099C1A5233.jpeg
His approach begins with determining the ballpark specs that one should be looking at based on the combination, possibly zeroing in on an ideal set of specs, then seeing if an “off the shelf” cam exists, and if not then moving on to “custom”.
You either educate so as to have a general idea of specs you should be looking at, up to maybe even picking something as close to ideal yourself. Or have a company select one, but now likely understanding why they settled on the particular specs.
One can choose to not get educated, have faith and let someone pick, not really knowing the why. All depends on how into it one wants to get.
 
Dan the man said:
Once I've done more research on camshafts, I'm thinking about using a custom grind cam. Would going with a custom grind cam be beneficial to me?
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Yes yes yes!
Off the shelf cams are fine for general use. A custom grind becomes personal. It’s a few dollars more that should be a non issue to spend. Above was a book recommendation that would be a wise purchase and read.
(Good recommendation @12many )

Off the shelf cams tend to generate (but not always) lower torque. This is because the grinders do a in general grinding of the shaft based on what most people aim for in general on there build. It is impossible to grind a cam for the masses and have it work for everyone.

There is also the people wanting “That muscle car idle chop” and enough vacuum for P/B. The 110 LSA tends to work for this. However, if you want really good brake pedal feel, then the LSA should be on a 112 or more, which stinks for low end torque. A cam ground (correctly) on a 108 or lower brings up the low end torque. But now it sounds like a race car, has low vacuum, PB do not work well, incorrect or just slightly off drivetrain combos make taking off from a stop feel like crap.

Cam grinders are in a catch 22 with the public and there wants.



70dart340 said:
You can have a custom camshaft built for your exact engine/transmission combination. Stroke, compression, heads,valves, and all the variables. I found out the hard way that it isn't much more than an "off the shelf" camshaft. Mopars also have a larger diameter lifter than the other "2", so you can take advantage of this feature, and tailor this to your specific build. I'm having Jim at Racer Brown build my custom camshaft for my 408. "Rumblefish" is one of many knowledgable members that can guide you in your choice. Calling "Rob" "Rumblefish", could you please help our FABO member?
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When Dan is ready…. After he reads the book suggested above…
 
I would certainly get a custom grind, especially if it is from one of the larger cam companies. They have more lobes to choose from, & as mentioned, companies like Comp, Bullet & Howards [ might be others ] have dedicated 904 Chrysler FT lobes that have more lift & area under the curve than Chebby or Ferd lobes. Because of the huge inventory they have of shelf grinds, it would be worry me that these might be ground across the border at Pedro's with inferior equipment.....
Hence, I like to get custom grinds.
 
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