Howard's or Lunati

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Dan the man

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Looking at Howards 711381-10 and a Lunati 700 for the 318. Which cam would be better for what I'm wanting to do with a 318? Refresh: Car will be a cruiser, no track time. Looking at improving throttle response and low to midrange torque. Compression ratio around 9.4. Gears 3.55. Full length 1 5/8" headers. Cylinder heads, I don't know which way to go as from what I've read 170cc intake runner size would hurt low to midrange torque, is this true? If not then I'd most likely get speedmaster 170cc heads. Carb: edelbrock 600 and a performer rpm intake manifold. Am I on the right track on this build or am I going in the wrong direction? Even though I won't be racing, I do want it to be able to get out of it's own way and of course there very well could be stop light to stop light action once in awhile.
 
I would sat Howard's if lobe centerline is 108°. Better power with the tighter lobes. Lunati are mostly on a 110° lobe.
 
Good luck with Lunati. I cancelled my order I placed in April. They haven't had the courtesy of responding to any of my multiple emails. I made sure they can't charge my CC under any circumstances. I'm working with Jim at Racer Brown Cams now. He'll at least snswer the phone and tell you the truth.
 
70dart340 said:
Good luck with Lunati. I cancelled my order I placed in April. They haven't had the courtesy of responding to any of my multiple emails. I made sure they can't charge my CC under any circumstances. I'm working with Jim at Racer Brown Cams now. He'll at least snswer the phone and tell you the truth.
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Racer Brown is a better choice than lunati.
 
OP: Can you post the specs of both cams?

I've had great luck and good results with howard's, haven't run lunati, but never heard anything bad there.

I would base my decision on 2 things, specs and availability.
 
70dart340 said:
Good luck with Lunati. I cancelled my order I placed in April. They haven't had the courtesy of responding to any of my multiple emails. I made sure they can't charge my CC under any circumstances. I'm working with Jim at Racer Brown Cams now. He'll at least snswer the phone and tell you the truth.
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I found them non-responsive even pre-virus. Email was a waste of time, countless calls at varying hours of the day got the same messaging, long waits on hold. I got though one time and actually talked to a tech but when it came to a needed follow-up call it was same old same old.

OP, call Bullet and have them set you up with something, just ask to speak to Tim Goolsby, be all ears, and go with what he recommends. Then be patient.
 
12many said:
I found them non-responsive even pre-virus. Email was a waste of time, countless calls at varying hours of the day got the same messaging, long waits on hold. I got though one time and actually talked to a tech but when it came to a needed follow-up call it was same old same old.

OP, call Bullet and have them set you up with something, just ask to speak to Tim Goolsby, be all ears, and go with what he recommends. Then be patient.
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Really diggin John's shirt. I gotta get me one.
 
70dart340 said:
Good luck with Lunati. I cancelled my order I placed in April. They haven't had the courtesy of responding to any of my multiple emails. I made sure they can't charge my CC under any circumstances. I'm working with Jim at Racer Brown Cams now. He'll at least snswer the phone and tell you the truth.
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I ordered a Lunati cam about 6 weeks ago, I called to make sure it was actually in stock like their website said. they shipped within an hour of me ordering and I had it in two days.
I emailed a few days later and they were responsive.

Basically, I would be looking around and marking off the list anything that isn't in stock. They person at Lunati I spoke with was surprised the cam I got was in stock, and I also mentioned the website saying "in stock soon" and he said Ha. don't believe that one!! it's the same situation everywhere. The smaller places like Bullet and Racer Brown might have the advantage at this point...if they're sitting on cores.
 
Id choose the 110 for a 318. 108 for a 360.

Dan, can you post links to each of the cams your thinking of? Thanks.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Id choose the 110 for a 318. 108 for a 360.

Dan, can you post links to each of the cams your thinking of? Thanks.
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I'd do the exact opposite. THe 110 will lose torque and gain hp. 360 will make more torque than the 318 with the same cam. THe 108 will also help raise his cylinder pressures.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Id choose the 110 for a 318. 108 for a 360.

Dan, can you post links to each of the cams your thinking of? Thanks.
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Why? My thinkin is the 318 is down on cubes and the bump in cylinder pressure from the 108....or even a 106 that I would consider would be of benefit. Splain what I'm missin pleeze.
 
roccodart440 said:
OP: Can you post the specs of both cams?

I've had great luck and good results with howard's, haven't run lunati, but never heard anything bad there.

I would base my decision on 2 things, specs and availability.
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Howard's cam. .479/.494 × 255*/261* 208* / 214× @0.050" 110* lsa. Lunati cam. .454/.454×253*/258* 203*/223*@0.050 112*lsa/108*icl
 
With what I'm wanting to do with the 318, could I use a SP cam, something like a comp 268*? Howards has a cam I like it's specs are .506 / 267* 220*@0.050. LSA 108* I don't know the icl of this cam. RPM is 1,800- 5,800. Does this cam have to much duration at 0.050"? Cylinder heads: Would I be better off buying a set of bare speedmaster cylinder heads? Would the 170cc intake runner size kill off low to midrange torque? Do I really need a edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold for what I'm wanting to get from the 318? I doubt very seriously if the 318 will ever run over 4,800 rpm's. It's strictly a cruiser. I figured that the 318 would need gone over anyway so I thought that I would add some extra zip to it. I plan on 3.55's. Is there anything that I can do to the transmission to help over all response of the car? Carburetor: can I use a 500 or a 600 cfm edelbrock carburetor? I'm hoping to be able to start gathering parts here soon and I don't want to have to buy a part twice.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Why? My thinkin is the 318 is down on cubes and the bump in cylinder pressure from the 108....or even a 106 that I would consider would be of benefit. Splain what I'm missin pleeze.
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Idle quality of the engines. The smaller engine reacts differently. Nothing more or less.
 
Man, your all over the place. You need to read a few books.

Dan the man said:
With what I'm wanting to do with the 318, could I use a SP cam, something like a comp 268*? Howards has a cam I like it's specs are .506 / 267* 220*@0.050. LSA 108* I don't know the icl of this cam. RPM is 1,800- 5,800. Does this cam have to much duration at 0.050"? Cylinder heads: Would I be better off buying a set of bare speedmaster cylinder heads? Would the 170cc intake runner size kill off low to midrange torque? Do I really need a edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold for what I'm wanting to get from the 318? I doubt very seriously if the 318 will ever run over 4,800 rpm's. It's strictly a cruiser. I figured that the 318 would need gone over anyway so I thought that I would add some extra zip to it. I plan on 3.55's. Is there anything that I can do to the transmission to help over all response of the car? Carburetor: can I use a 500 or a 600 cfm edelbrock carburetor? I'm hoping to be able to start gathering parts here soon and I don't want to have to buy a part twice.
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Opinions on cams are more widely carried than a room full of quack doctors. Educate yourself first.
 
rumblefish360 said:
With a book?
If not, I’d otherwise say;

:rofl:
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I have a even better idea, buy a 2016 or so hemi challenger and have all the power that I'll ever need. Not to mention all of the comforts. There's not a decent "A" body mopar with in a 125 miles from where I live anyway. I tired of checking out these cars that are suppose to be in good shape and have what I want and turn out to be junk. I can't believe that people don't understand what the term no project car means. I've been on every site available for cars and nothing. I just don't have the funds to travel everywhere looking at cars. I never thought that wanting to get a little extra zip from a car would require a doctor's degree.
 
You don't have the car yet? I think it might be a good idea to buy the car before you build a motor. You might happen to find a car that already has a decent motor that you can add a few things to.
 
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