Hurst super shifter linkage

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slowdown

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Second time out thought I had it but lost first gear tried to grind when I went to stick it in first at a stop. Installed it with the plastic line up pin but some where along the line it wasn't right.
Is there a trick to this?
I remember messing with my linkage forever when I first installed my 4 speed a couple of years ago I suppose I will get it eventually just wondering if there a easy way to line these things up.
So I'm switching from a used hurst shifter an linkage to a new hurst street super shifter with straight rods. An I did the clearance on the transmission mount.
To add everything worked fine before the switch.
 
It may not be the neutral line up. Rather the distance the new shifter is throwing the shifter lever on the first second. Maybe the ear on the first second needs to be longer or shorter and it's just not throwing it all the way into first if the ear on your old shifter was longer it would throw further and vice versa if the shifter was shorter it wouldn't have that long of a throw. Of course without seeing anything this is all speculation but just food for thought and maybe something to look at. I Custom fabricated the linkage for my vertigate shifter and had to take all this into consideration.
View attachment 20151107_173721.jpg
 
Thanks I was kinda thinking the same thing as the first an second rod when pushed into first didn't give that firm in gear feel. I will look into it some more.
 
Yeah it sounds like it's not quite getting into gear. I had the luxury of having everything out and putting the shifter on, but you may try and just disconnect the linkage from the ear that is on the transmission while you have it in first and see if it's carrying it all the way into first?
 
1. put trans in neutral.
2. back off shifter stops
3. remove nuts from shifter rods and pull levers/rods away from trans,
4. put alignment pin in shifter box
5. super shifter should have 3 spacers 1/2 thick behind shifter plate
6. gently adjust/turn lever rods each direction until they simply slide on without force.
7. put nuts back on.
8. What do you have for plate departure ? nothing will work if your clutch plate does not release
8 put trans in 1st gear and adjust stops until it barely touches and tightens. repeat on 3-4. Test. one thing I had to teach myself is not to side load shifter going into third gear. You simply push straight up. Let the shifter do its job, it is spring loaded. If you have a death grip on the ball you are wrong. If you put the shifter ball in the base of your palm and shove straight up it will go straight into third. make sure side cover is pushed up with pressure when you put the side cover on. (I use a screw driver under the reverse casting).

slowdown remember slowndown when going to 1st gear. lots of things come into play. my valiant 4 speed shifted smooth as silk with type F trans fluid. shifts into 1st became harder when I switched to 50w kendall motor oil.
 
acpat said:
nice linkage Jpar
Click to expand...
Thanks, it's just some heavy all thread I bought at the hardware store and some pieces of metal bouncing around in my garage. I think I used a couple of stock linkage pieces from some old stuff that I had.
 
What a pain, I took it all apart lined everything up again. It all seemed to be shifting smooth all gears were there. I drove it out of the garage and back in again a couple of times and checked to make sure it wanted to move in all the gears. Then I took it for a spin around the block and everything was working smooth. No problems.
So I went out cruising around for awhile and headed back home and wham stuck in 4th gear. I had to disconnect the linkage and shift it into second manually and drive it home. With all linkage removed from trans the shifter is stuck in 4th? Not sure whats up its brand new I wouldn't think it would mess up. The shifter does make a spring sound when going into second and into third.
I'll have to take the shifter out and take a look. I probably wont get around to messing with it until next weekend.
 
what transmission side cover are you using ? Is it a interlock by chance ? What year is transmission ? 70 and up is interlock. Do you have brass shift forks or steel ? what shifter handle are you using ?.

crap I forgot to ask did you pop the cover off the bottom of the shifter and lube it ? When I put my super shifter in the valiant I had similar problems. I popped off the cover and it was bone dry. shot it with some spray lithium grease and presto fixed 75% of issues. other 25% was factory bench seat shifter handle. swapped it out for a transfer case handle and no problems since
 
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acpat said:
what transmission side cover are you using ? Is it a interlock by chance ? What year is transmission ? 70 and up is interlock. Do you have brass shift forks or steel ? what shifter handle are you using ?.

crap I forgot to ask did you pop the cover off the bottom of the shifter and lube it ? When I put my super shifter in the valiant I had similar problems. I popped off the cover and it was bone dry. shot it with some spray lithium grease and presto fixed 75% of issues. other 25% was factory bench seat shifter handle. swapped it out for a transfer case handle and no problems since
Click to expand...
Turns out I must not have gotten the 4th gear stop tightened enough and it worked it's way in and wouldn't let it come back out of 4th gear.
Everything is good and working as it should thanks guys for the input.
 
slowdown said:
Turns out I must not have gotten the 4th gear stop tightened enough and it worked it's way in and wouldn't let it come back out of 4th gear.
Everything is good and working as it should thanks guys for the input.
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glad you figured it out. check to see if they greased it
 
Over the decades,it seems to me the biggest single issue with 833 shifters, is not the shifters at all.The biggest problems I have seen is the transmission-end levers "wallering" out where they bolt on to the little studs.They can feel tight on the wrench, yet with a bit of resistance, they can re-index themselves. This is terribly annoying.The usual reaction is to re-tighten the nuts or loc-tite the nuts. But that is not the issue.The issue is the fit of the slot in the lever to the matching drive-lug on the internal lever. The lever slot is very hard, but the lug is less hard. If it comes loose the drive-lug gets its corners rounded,and soon there is a bit of play, and then it becomes very difficult to prevent it from happening over and over again.
It is very difficult to do any repairs to these parts with the tranny cover installed.
But I have found that a thick-bodied permatex product,when correctly applied does a pretty good job.The stuff has to go to where the parts are wallered out, and no place else.Then reinstall the nut with blue-loctite.You need to work the lever a couple of times about every half hour, (more often,at the outset), to be sure it didn't wick into the cover. If the cover is off, then just lay it down with the inside facing up.
The thinner red-loctite will work too, but it has a tendency to wick up into the cover and completely seize the lever up;and that's bad.
Once the levers are secured like this, the neutral gate can be re-centered and at least those parts will stay where you put them.Mine have not moved since 2004.
Good luck!
 
what AJ said is no crap. If you get permatex on the shafts it will seize. I made that mistake and it is one you only make once lol.yep I had to learn the hard way
 
yep was #2 permatex. It never sets up completely. I was trying to help the O ring shaft seals. Thought a little bit wont hurt. Crap... never locked shifter shafts completely but wow. Took me a minute to figure out what I did lol.
 
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