I’m out of power

[Des102260]

I went cruising the other day and made a stop. When I got back in my car the power was completely gone. I changed the starter relay, put a fusible link wire in my red wire, checked and cleaned my bulkhead connector and even changed the ignition switch and my car still has no power, I tested the glass fused and they all light up someone please help.

 

[Kendog 170]

Will the starter engage if you jump the relay? Do your headlights work? Battery terminals clean? My 2004 Tundra did that. Battery terminals looked clean but the post was corroded enough to cause this.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Have you actually done any diagnostic work, or just blindly replaced parts?

 

[Des102260]

Yes the starter will engage if I bump the relay

Have you actually done any diagnostic work, or just blindly replaced parts?

i blindly replaced parts think I knew what the problem was

 

[Des102260]

The battery post are clean and connected I guess it’s time to take it to a mechanic. I was just trying to avoid the wait

 

[Des102260]

Yes the starter will engage if I bump the relay

i blindly replaced parts think I knew what the problem was although I did check for power through the process that’s why I bought a new starter relay

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yes the starter will engage if I bump the relay

i blindly replaced parts think I knew what the problem was

OK so the answer is you've done no diagnostic work. Do you not know how? We can walk you through some stuff if you have a test light and a meter.

 

[Des102260]

OK so the answer is you've done no diagnostic work. Do you not know how? We can walk you through some stuff if you have a test light and a meter.

I do have a test light meter . I’m at work at the moment tho I would love to get a list of things to do so I could jump straight on it soon as I get off work

 

[RustyRatRod]

I do have a test light meter . I’m at work at the moment tho I would love to get a list of things to do so I could jump straight on it soon as I get off work

Be glad to try and help, but first WHAT are we working on? Year, make, model, engine? Stock or aftermarket wiring harness? Any major electrical changes or additions? You know what you have, but we don't. I do it all the time, too. It's easy to get focused on the issue and leave all that out. Also, depending on the year and what it is, stroll over to Mymopar.com and download a factory service manual. It will have the correct wiring diagram that can help you greatly.

 

[Workingdog1]

Be glad to try and help, but first WHAT are we working on? Year, make, model, engine? Stock or aftermarket wiring harness? Any major electrical changes or additions? You know what you have, but we don't. I do it all the time, too. It's easy to get focused on the issue and leave all that out. Also, depending on the year and what it is, stroll over to Mymopar.com and download a factory service manual. It will have the correct wiring diagram that can help you greatly.

RRR , I suspect a loose or as some call it a lose wire or connection. Lmao

 

[Des102260]

Be glad to try and help, but first WHAT are we working on? Year, make, model, engine? Stock or aftermarket wiring harness? Any major electrical changes or additions? You know what you have, but we don't. I do it all the time, too. It's easy to get focused on the issue and leave all that out. Also, depending on the year and what it is, stroll over to Mymopar.com and download a factory service manual. It will have the correct wiring diagram that can help you greatly.

It’s a 1971 dodge dart swinger 340 stock wording harness

 

[FISHYPETE]

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad battery cable. No click but lights worked

 

[Des102260]

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad battery cable. No click but lights worked

Yea my lights don’t work either

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would START by checking all the easy stuff. Remove both battery terminals. CLEAN them good. Leave them disconnected until you're done with all this. Trace where the negative cable grounds. Remove it and clean it thoroughly. Replace it and make sure it's TIGHT. Follow the positive cable to where it connects to the starter relay. Remove it and clean it good. Replace it and make sure that connection is TIGHT. Look for any other grounds that connect the engine to maybe the firewall or frame rail or fender well. There may be a small ground off the negative battery terminal. Follow where it goes. Remove and clean it. Replace it and make sure it's TIGHT. That's about all I can think of until you get more time with your test light and meter.

 

[Des102260]

I would START by checking all the easy stuff. Remove both battery terminals. CLEAN them good. Leave them disconnected until you're done with all this. Trace where the negative cable grounds. Remove it and clean it thoroughly. Replace it and make sure it's TIGHT. Follow the positive cable to where it connects to the starter relay. Remove it and clean it good. Replace it and make sure that connection is TIGHT. Look for any other grounds that connect the engine to maybe the firewall or frame rail or fender well. There may be a small ground off the negative battery terminal. Follow where it goes. Remove and clean it. Replace it and make sure it's TIGHT. That's about all I can think of until you get more time with your test light and meter.

Ok I’ll keep you updated

 

[67Dart273]

Normally when you have these symptoms AND NO headlights, it is a problem in the most basic supply circuit, the ammeter circuit.

Review the MAD article and especially the simplified diagram:

Catalog

Follow along in the diagram:

Replacing the fuse link was a good guess, but as Rusty says, you need to actually diagnose. It can save you time AND money

FIRST get a meter and test lamp, and maybe even some alligator clip jumper leads

Do you have power to ground at the big stud on the starter relay? Does the starter crank if you jumper the start relay? Then the battery posts/ clamps and main cables are OK

Next, check for 12V AT THE alternator main stud. If you have power there, turn on the headlight switch, no lights? Then recheck at the alternator. No power now? Then, follow the diagram:

The power comes off the starter relay stud, through the fuse link, and THROUGH THE bulkhead connector on the BIG RED ammeter wire. The bulkhead connector terminals can be bad. Then the RED goes on to the ammeter. THE AMMETER terminals can be compromised/ burnt/ loose/ etc, and not conducting. Wiggle the bulkhead connector, wiggle the wires on the ammeter. Then power goes through and out the ammeter on the BIG BLACK wire coming off the ammeter.

NOTICE THE welded splice. NOTICE power branches off to the hot buss to the fuse panel, to the ignition switch, and to the headlight switch. THAT WELDED SPLICE can and has failed but it is rare.

Last power continues out through the bulkhead into the engine bay on the BIG BLACK and to the alternator.

 

[Kendog 170]

Keep in mind that BLACK wire is POWER not negative

 

[RustyRatRod]

Keep in mind that BLACK wire is POWER not negative

Please include details. I think we have a member here who is pretty green with this stuff.

To the OP, @Kendog 170 is talking about the wires on the back of the ammeter. They are red on one side and black on the other.....BOTH are positive and neither is ground. I know. It's crazy, but that's how they did it.