I’m struggling (ign1 ign2 combining)

[PatrioticMopar]

Hey all,

After a separate post, I know I need to combine start and run power into a single wire for my ignition coil. I upgraded from points to an internal module HEI distributor.

I am trying to figure out which wires to combine. I will post a couple photos, if anyone can confirm... i feel like the brown with the eyelet is a run 12v and I just need to figure out what to combine to bypass the resistor.

Thanks again

 

[dgibby]

you can just unplug them at the resistor and use a jumper wire to connect them.

 

[PatrioticMopar]

you can just unplug them at the resistor and use a jumper wire to connect them.

View attachment 1715714138

The double brown and blue with white tracer? I like this idea thanks!

 

[67Dart273]

The short answer is you need to post what you are working on, year, make, model, and whether it has factory or factory replacement wiring, or a DIY aftermarket harness

A plug in jumper will work

 

[PatrioticMopar]

The short answer is you need to post what you are working on, year, make, model, and whether it has factory or factory replacement wiring, or a DIY aftermarket harness

A plug in jumper will work

Sorry, 1972 Plymouth Duster 318... it is a factory style point harness.

 

[brian6pac]

Do you have a coil that is made to run on straight 12v, witch will be 14v when running. With a ballast it's 12v when cranking and about 9v or so when running. If you are still running a stock coil you still need a ballast.

 

[PatrioticMopar]

Do you have a coil that is made to run on straight 12v, witch will be 14v when running. With a ballast it's 12v when cranking and about 9v or so when running. If you are still running a stock coil you still need a ballast.

It is an aftermarket coil designed for 12v

 

[PatrioticMopar]

This is the diagram that came with the distributor

 

[brian6pac]

This is the diagram that came with the distributor

View attachment 1715714194

You should be good to go.

 

[Jim Lusk]

To keep the somewhat stock appearance on mine (and to revert back if I ever need to) I took an old ballast resistor and removed the resistor. Then I took some 14 gauge solid from some romex and soldered that to the connectors in the ballast. Looks like it's still there and looks better than a jumper.

 

[RustyRatRod]

This is the diagram that came with the distributor

View attachment 1715714194

Is that the type of coil you have?

 

[PatrioticMopar]

Is that the type of coil you have?

no, I opted for the canister style. It’s a 50k coil

 

[RustyRatRod]

no, I opted for the canister style. It’s a 50k coil

Normally, if the distributor is recommended to have an e coil, that's what's best.

 

[Bewy]

A canister coil is inefficient compared to an E or O coil type coil. Lost/wasted spark energy with a can coil. That is why they are not used on modern cars...