i heard a "POP"

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RPMmachine

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i was stalling my 440/727 @ a redlight & then i heard a pop. i was only stalling at 2K.

the car is equipped w/ a $600 3800 stall converter & a $1000 reverse pattern 727. the car only has 6 passes on it so why did something go wrong?

the car drove back home but it doesnt feel the same. it has a "rough" feel to it where it was smooth before

what could of happened? this is kinda hard to explain

i just changed the fluid a week ago with B&M fluid and a brass trans filter
 
the car has excessive rpm on the highway and city before when the trans was new the rpm's were considerably lower.
 
Pull the inspection cover and make sure you didn't break one of the convertor to flex plate bolts, other than that I suspect the converter internals could be the problem.

Terry
 
thanks for the fast reply

ok i took it for another drive, @ 3500 rpm or above the car makes a chain saw sound

when the car is idling or when im slowing down i have to give it gas to keep the engine from turning off
 
RPMmachine said:
thanks for the fast reply

ok i took it for another drive, @ 3500 rpm or above the car makes a chain saw sound

when the car is idling or when im slowing down i have to give it gas to keep the engine from turning off
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Your converter is toast, fubar, coming apart. Don't drive it any further or you could wipe the engine crank thrust bearing or damage the tranny if it ain't allready to late. Have the converter pulled and inspected, I suspect broken vanes on either the pump or turbine disk.

The torque converter is made up of 3 seperate parts (4 if it's a lockup). The outer drum is bolted to the flexplate is called the pump and has internal vanes that pump the oil through the internal turbine disc, turning the disc as it does, which is connected to the input shaft of the tranny. The turbine disc also has vanes all the way around it which capture the flow of the oil from the pump (drum) and converts that to rotation to rotate the tranny. I almost forgot the stator, it directs the oil between the pump and turbine among other things. I suspect that 1 or more vanes on the drum or turbine have broke off which will sound like a chain saw as it rubs internally and also not allow the turbine disc to stop turning as it has to do when idling in gear. I suspect that when you put the tranny in neutral everything seems fine.

Terry
 
you pretty much diagnosed my problem, how could this happen?

i check my converter bolts and they are all still on, no heads are broken off

my trans was shifts ok so do i have to worry about it?
 
is it because i drive it on the street, the converter isnt even 1 year old yet
 
RPMmachine said:
is it because i drive it on the street, the converter isnt even 1 year old yet
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Could be any number of reasons. The internal vanes of the pump/drum are brazed on and I'm guessing that there are approx. 50 of these vanes and all it takes is one bad weld and poof. Driving it on the street is not the problem as it should hold up for street/strip unless you're running a crap load of HP through it. I run a 3500 RPM converter on the street with no problem as do a lot of people. Also the people that supplied you the converter could have just missed out on the application. Whos converter is it, not by chance TCI? Sorry

Terry
 
what converter do you guys recommened,

now after reading the exploding tourqeflight thread i think my sprag is worn out because my engine has excessive rpm

if i need to replace my sprag i might just switch to an 833

please dont say that i need a new sprag, lol!
 
my car has a .509 mopar purple cam and is 99% street driven

i dont race that much
 
i appreciate all the help

thanks alot for putting me in the right path, i thought the problem was bad spark plugs!
 
so if i order a converter for 28" rear tires i'll be stuck with 28" tires?

this is why i dont like converters if you change your gear ratio and tires for street driving you'll hurt the converter. dam
 
I wouldn't sweat it any further RPM till you drop the tranny and check the converter. The sprag usually (I said usually) doesn't take a hit unless you overspeed the tranny by lets say breaking a drive shaft ujoint. If it turns out to be the converter talk to Dynamic and these guys http://www.turboaction.com/frame.html they'll both set ya up with what you need. The warranty for what's it's worth is propably up on the TCI anyway.

Terry
 
would 8000 rpm overspeed it? it hapened once at the track

im hoping that its just the converter

if its any more than the converter im going to switch to an 833
 
mullinax95 said:
Lenny was part of Dynamic at one time wasn't he? I mean I'm sure Ultimate or Dynamic would be better than a shelf bought converter.
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Yes he was,from what i've been told dynamic converters were better built when he was there..either ultimate or dynamic are a much better choice then tci,thats for sure...Rpm running the car on the street should'nt cause the converter to go bad,i run my duster on the street with a 3800 stall converter 4:30's and a spool with no issues..
 
RPMmachine said:
so if i order a converter for 28" rear tires i'll be stuck with 28" tires?

this is why i dont like converters if you change your gear ratio and tires for street driving you'll hurt the converter. dam
Click to expand...


Gear ratio/tire size should really not affect the converter stall enough to worry about.
 
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