I need a hydraulic clutch

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Dne007

Dne007

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Hi, I'm dne' for those of you that don't know me, :lol:
I'm thinking I want to go ahead an install my Super Six into my '63 Dart, I just need a hydraulic clutch, well and pressure plate/clutch plate.

I know about Brewers, just looking at other options. I even wrote Red Roberts at Driveline performance as I helped them design the clutch system adapter for a 67 Mustang with a power booster, still waiting to hear back.

:thankyou: dne' ;)

Then this is on ebay:

McLEOD HYDRAULIC CLUTCH CONVERSION - MoPAR A833 4-SPEED 23-SPLINE | eBay

Application:CHRYSLER 1961-1978 V8 ; A833 4 SPEED 1" x 23 SPLINE INPUT. These bearings are made of the finest hard anodized billet aluminum, along with quality elbow swivel fittings and high pressure stainless steel braided lines.
www.ebay.com

63 dart brakeclutch pedal.jpg


A833 shifter installedb.jpg


A833 shifter installeda.jpg


engine compartmenta.jpg


dart painteda.jpg


Slant 6 finished.jpg



My 67 Mustang with hydraulic clutch
Driveline components2.jpg


I made this piece of plywood and sent it to Red Roberts at Driveline components, then they made it out of metal and sent it back to me for test fitting;)
Driveline components3.jpg


clutch system4.jpg
 
Don't know if it will help, but the Ford Bronco IIs had a hydraulic clutch. Like 1985...


85 Bronco.jpeg


Might be able to hit Rock Auto and get the slave cylinder that mounts to the bell housing. Offroad outfits have pedal sets with Hydraulic Clutch Setups...


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Much like Brewers, there is also Passon Peformance that specialize in Mopar manual transmissions.
He also carries the retro and all the parts for conversions.
I did allot with Jamie Passion in the early to mid 2000's. Nice and easy to work with. My 2 cents.
 
with your level of skill in fab, have you considered looking at the S10 master as an option?

also, perfect wheel choice! ;D
 
1985 Bronco II V6

Clutch Master Cylinder

85 Cluth Master Cylinder.jpg


1985 Bronco II Clutch Slave Cylinder

85 Slave Master Cylinder.jpg


They also have the Bronco II Pressure Plate, not much money and you may be able to redrill your Slant 6 flywheel and bolt it up. Might have to special size the Slanty clutch disc to fit the pressure plate. But by the looks of it, no problem for you.


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here's the easy button:

HYDRAMAX Hydraulic Clutch Conversion System for Mopar with 23-Spline A-833

Shift smoothly with precision by upgrading your Mopar's clutch with this Hydramax hydraulic clutch conversion system from American Powertrain. Shop now!
americanpowertrain.com

obviously a big fist full of doubloons.

but you could reverse engineer it, which you've already figured out with the mustang you did. the key is just sorting out the throwout and then configuring the rest around it-- getting the right contour of the throwout face for whatever clutch you're running (obviously a concern with the early body stuff), the geometry/linkage & throw to the slave cylinder, the lines are a secondary concern, really.

the kicker is figuring out an inexpensive throwout-- i've heard everything from 90's nissan pathfinder, ranger V6, viper, 80's camaro; some direct install some requiring any sort of machine work to either enlarge the ID or on the mating face.

the only direct experience i have is with the mcleod throwout and a diaphram style unit and the S10 master on a later A so it's not exactly an apples to apples comparo. also, race car so not exactly a "clean" install.
 
that looks great you dont have trouble bleading it at that angle
bronco/rangers are hard to bleed would think an external slave would be easier to fab and bleed like my 67 dodge p/u
 
Or keep it Mopar and check out Dakota's they had juice clutches.
 
I’d probably be ok with a manual clutch, I shouldn’t have said need, just like to install the engine/trans together, thus I Want some sort of clutch. Guess I could put out a ad for the parts for the manual system.

RustyRatRod said:
Need?
Click to expand...
 
There is much less to go wrong with the original manual setup...but it's your car and all about what you want. You made that shifter plate look a lot better...LOL
 
It’s easy to get caught up in the hype of things. Oh you’ve got to have a hydraulic clutch, when in fact people seem to have gotten along fine with a manual system. Crazy isn’t it :lol:
 
The simpler the better...Less expense and less to maintain. Flip side the setup looks nice and is certainly easy on the left leg. With that slant the real estate in the engine compartment isn't nearly an issue... to where it looks crowded. The old automatic 65 performance package Barracuda Karrin and I have has the enhanced braking package. The blue Avatar car has the simple acorn master cylinder.
 
Ok, I guess a change of plans, "simpler is better" as Jeff said, so I could at least install the clutch plate/pressure plate, get a new throw out bearing, I have the fork thing and internal bell housing parts. At least I could get the engine/trans installed relatively soon. Just have to search for the other parts later. Ya'll just gonna have to put up with me :lol:
 
Dne007 said:
Ok, I guess a change of plans, "simpler is better" as Jeff said, so I could at least install the clutch plate/pressure plate, get a new throw out bearing, I have the fork thing and internal bell housing parts. At least I could get the engine/trans installed relatively soon. Just have to search for the other parts later. Ya'll just gonna have to put up with me :lol:
Click to expand...

I agree. I went with hydraulic (mainly due to the hype) and I had geometry issues due to the slave hitting the inner fender, then I had lines leaking, it was a mess.

You should have a TO bearing with your new clutch, and if you have the fork, set that in place. You can install all of that in the engine and then mate up the trans. Install both and then just call Brewers or send him an email and he will give you a quote for anything missing. He's great to deal with.
 
I like your response :thankyou: , I'm just really excited to install my S6, just one big thing out of the way :thumbsup:

plumkrazee70 said:
I agree. I went with hydraulic (mainly due to the hype) and I had geometry issues due to the slave hitting the inner fender, then I had lines leaking, it was a mess.

You should have a TO bearing with your new clutch, and if you have the fork, set that in place. You can install all of that in the engine and then mate up the trans. Install both and then just call Brewers or send him an email and he will give you a quote for anything missing. He's great to deal with.
Click to expand...
 
I am thinking back in the day, didn't Pinto's and Mavric's have cable operated clutches. Which worked well until the V-8 powered swaps caused some firewall issues, flexing. But I am sure that issue can be easily fixed.
 
When I bought my brake/clutch assembly, it didn't have spring. I've been searching for a decent diagram, only found one down below.
I just don't see how it all works! or where's there's room on the engine firewall side for linkages. or where the ball thing will mount onto the frame? questions questions

I found a seller on ebay, was just about to buy it, but I thought I'd better check with you guys. Just some things I'm not very good at.

LuK 05-004 Transmission Clutch Kit For Select 59-87 Dodge Plymouth Models | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for LuK 05-004 Transmission Clutch Kit For Select 59-87 Dodge Plymouth Models at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

clutch stuffd.jpg


clutch stuffc.jpg


clutch stuffb.jpg


clutch stuff.jpg


clutch stufff.png


I think I have the spring going to the wrong place?
clutch stuffe.jpg
 
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