I need to improve my 60' time.

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Clelan

Clelan

Inferno Red Duster
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Location
Martensville Sask. Can.
74 Duster
360, A-500, 8-3/4 w. 4.30 gear
275/60-15 Nitto Drag Radial @ 20 psi
3500 lbs approx
002,003 Super Stock Springs and 50-50 drag shocks
/6 torsion bars and 90-10 shocks
See time slip below. I spun off the line.
I do have some carb work to do as well

I need to improve my 60'and I wonder if I need an adjustable pinion snubber or not.
Going to clamp the front segment of both front springs.
There are no clamps on the rear segment.
Going to start at 22 PSI this time and work down.
A friend is 60 footing at 1.7 on the same tire in a G body GM using 17 psi.
Ideas and suggestions are much appreciated.

Cley
20240706_174511.jpg
 
1st thing is get it to not spin.
You can’t really evaluate the potential of the combo if it’s spinning the tires.

Get someone to video some launches at the track.

104mph is a good enough power/weight ratio to be well into the 12’s.
 
I’v run high 1.3x sixty foot times with SS springs and no snubber, I’ve always heard that snubbers were for stock leaf springs not SS.
I made my clamps from 2x1/2” aluminum strap, two on each front half.
 
1) drop your rear air pressure. 14psi depending on track conditions.
2) adjustable shocks are needed to help the rear squat and go.
3) like said above- video tape it. Sounds silly but helps in so many ways.
4)sometimes it’s just the day, not you or the car.
 
Thinking about the SS springs I forgot to mention that I’m on slicks and one thing they do is is slam the tires into the track depending upon how hard the converter hits. On a radial tire it will bounce the tires causing them to unload. So playing around with tire pressure, putting a clamp on the back half of the spring and shock settings etc. to work out the tire spin problem.
 
Personally, I'd ditch the Nitto's and go M/T ET Streets (Drag radials). That's what I'd do if I were you. I'm cutting lower 1.8's with an open differential (3.23's) and a much smaller tire (235/60R15) drag radials at 28 psi. Oh wait, I run factory stock leafs with traction bars (slappers!)... never mind :D
 
Syleng1 said:
1) drop your rear air pressure. 14psi depending on track conditions.
2) adjustable shocks are needed to help the rear squat and go.
3) like said above- video tape it. Sounds silly but helps in so many ways.
4)sometimes it’s just the day, not you or the car.
Click to expand...
Ok. I have 3 way adjustable shocks. I will conform the front to are 90-10. Should my rear shocks be set to resist extension or resist squat? Right now they are 50-50 but I have options for 70-30 and 40-60.

Cley
 
318willrun said:
Personally, I'd ditch the Nitto's and go M/T ET Streets (Drag radials). That's what I'd do if I were you. I'm cutting lower 1.8's with an open differential (3.23's) and a much smaller tire (235/60R15) drag radials at 28 psi. Oh wait, I run factory stock leafs with traction bars (slappers!)... never mind :D
Click to expand...
Unfortunately my budget has me sticking with my Nittos for now. I'm just trying to do the best with what I have right now.

Cley
 
I have a pair of mounted slicks on 15X10 center lines and the Mopar shocks for super stock springs. Slicks are I think by 29 or 29.5 X9X15. I also have some older slicks on steel slots. Kim
 
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Clelan said:
Unfortunately my budget has me sticking with my Nittos for now. I'm just trying to do the best with what I have right now.

Cley
Click to expand...
Then you'll need to go to technique. Do NOT brake torque it and "mash it fast and hard". You'll need to find a method that works the gas and brake pedals like a clutch and gas pedal.
 
Also, make sure your brake calipers are not sticking at all. Hold the brakes firm and then let off quickly while the car idles in gear. If it takes a couple of seconds for the car to begin to move, you may have one sticking which will cause a little traction issue.
 
Clelan said:
Ok. I have 3 way adjustable shocks. I will conform the front to are 90-10. Should my rear shocks be set to resist extension or resist squat? Right now they are 50-50 but I have options for 70-30 and 40-60.

Cley
Click to expand...
U want them to extend as fast as they can and retract the slowest. Kim
 
I agree with lowering the air pressure, I ran about 18 psi in my BFG drag radials, don't remember the 60 foot times exactly, but I think it was in the 1.8 range. I will look for any old times lips when I get home. I did run an adjustable pinion snubber too.
 
You want separation in the rear with leaf springs (not squat), with the front coming up. My car has 3-way adjustable as well. Cal-tracs help quite a bit by moving you up the anti-squat line to induce separation, and of course control spring distortion. This also pushes the tire down against the track. Quicker extension, with slower compression in the shocks helps with this as well.

Look at the gaps between the tops of my tires and the fender lips in the photos below:
1720658417022.jpeg

1720658446756.jpeg

A good slow motion video will help you see what is or isn’t happening.
 
318willrun said:
Personally, I'd ditch the Nitto's and go M/T ET Streets (Drag radials). That's what I'd do if I were you. I'm cutting lower 1.8's with an open differential (3.23's) and a much smaller tire (235/60R15) drag radials at 28 psi. Oh wait, I run factory stock leafs with traction bars (slappers!)... never mind :D
Click to expand...
I don’t know where the idea that slapper bars don’t work on mopars but I’ve had good luck with them.
 
My best 60ft time so far in my Cuda is 1.47 - and i think i can still improve. I use Hoosier and M/T drag radials - which i think are probably one of the biggest factors in not spinning off the line. My suspension is Cal-Trac mono leafs, sliders instead of shackles, and I have the Smith Racecraft Assassin traction bars. Viking adjustable shocks on both ends. This season with a new stroker build, my car is popping the front tires at launch.

Best bang for your buck (in my opinion) would be to start off with better tires - OR experiment with pressures and length of burnouts with the ones you have. Also, experiment with your launch RPM and whether to stab the gas peddle at the go light, or ease it down to the floor. Change one thing at a time, take notes, and HAVE FUN!
 
I run a snubber with SS springs. But adjusted so not to hit at launch. It's there for pinion support if the rear decides to do some nasties.

Keeps the tech guys happy.

SS springs are designed to spool energy to deliver at around the 60' ft mark. So not to spin tires so hard at launch without the investment in a full link system. To what end? Typically if build is looking at the classic 9.90 1/4 time? That's about as far as SS springs can be expected to perform.

It's funny how alot of mechanical/chassis/safety as well as licensing requirements change at 9.90. The drag racing experience is then in a different world.

Just my experience.
 
My best and only recommendation would be... real slicks. Know any stock eliminator racers? They usually have 9"slicks that aren't quite fast enough, that can be bought reasonably, and still get plenty of laps out of.
And in my worthless opinion, the proper place for a pinion snubber, adjustable or otherwise, is the round file. If your rear body lifts, and plants the tires like it should, any pinion snubber should be waving in the breeze, the added weight just slowing you down.
Improve your sixty two or three tenths, your quarter times should improve double that.
Also, imo, nittos are not nearly in the same class as Hoosier or Mickey drag radials.
 
Id be looking to switching convertor small blocks need convertor to get to 60 ft
 
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