I think I really scewed up during initial start up...

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myasylum

myasylum

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I finally got all my fuel issue fix with my new 360. Then it was off 180 degrees of course, but I fixed that.

When I had it running for the initial break in, I had it running at 2500 rpm, and I remembered I was suppose to start it in neutral because my torque converter didn't have much fluid in it.

Well, my friend had a twist tie already on the carb to keep it at 2500 rpm, so instead of shifting to neutral I let off the gas and turned the car off, and it was running at 2500 rpm. Gas shot up out of the carb, and now... it's dead.

The car was running for about 2 minutes only, and now it won't start. It is acting like the timing is off. It sputters, and pops, thats about it.
The only time it acts like it's going to fire is when I let off the ignition.

My friend said that the ballast resistor felt really hot, is that just confidence?
It's getting gas, and spark, but it's back firing. like I say the only time it acts like it wants to start is when I let off the ignition.

What do you think I did? Am I screwed?

Help!
 
I would pull the plugs, disable the ignition, and crank the motor over 2 or 3 times to purge the fuel from the cyliders.
Thats what I would do if it was mine. Your mileage may vary.

Good Luck.

George
 
Did you take the twist tie off?Maybe flooded?If you had it running for 2 minutes,how did it run?Was it missing..backfiring?Check your rounds for starters.Also what was your temp at?
 
It ran great at 2500rpm. Idol was a little rough... i didn't get a chance to set that.

I just turned off the car a 2500 rpm, and it's dead. sputtering like it did when it was 180 degrees off. Or like I say... It seems to catch right when I let off the ignition.
Since the plug was dry, I figured it wasn't flooded. Plus the only time it even sputters the slightest bit is when I give it more gas. Otherwise it turns over and does nothing.

Does that sound like something a ballast resistor would do? is it suppose to get hot?
 
did you set the timing with a timing light?

probably got the timing either too much advance or retard...

couping back thru carb...i would say too much advance...move distributor clockwise...

one thing you can do...is make a check list on a piece of paper of the things to do before you start engine
 
Yes we did set the timing with a timing light, and we tightened down the distributor.

If it's to much advanced, shouldn't I go counter clockwise?

Basically you don't think anything should have screwed up to badly by me shutting off the engine?
It just surprised me seeing all the fuel shooting up out of the carb!
 
Kind of unrelated, but what did your fuel supply issue turn out to be?
 
clock wise will retard timing

counter clock wise will advance timing
 
Oh, the fuel????! Man what a pain in the ***!! I found two leaks, i fixed both... it STILL didn't work! I put on a USED fuel pump... still didn't work. BUT then I did the ol' sucking routine with my mouth and sucked it up to the fuel filter... THEN it finally got up to the carb and it started to finally run.
Well... Till I f'd it up of course (or I think I did?)
 
hows the fuel in the float bowls?

also, check that youre gettig voltage to the coil during cranking.

and, just for giggles, try putting some starting fluid in it if everything checks out ok
 
YES, just replace the ballast resistor already, can't hurt if it seems to be the culprit as they are super cheap and everywhere. Try jumping the ballast resistor and see if it starts. If it does you know for sure it's the resistor; turn it off quick though because you'll burn up the coil.

Also for some reason it seems like people are too afraid of advancing the ignition more to help it run better. If the ballast resistor doesn't do it you should try advancing the timing a little (turn distributor counter-clockwise, it'll usually backfire if it's too retarded. Too advanced and it'll kick back against the starter.
 
I have a stock electronic distributor.
it turns over normal, just spits.

I have a 4 point ballast. I do have a 2 pin laying around. what wires would I use to convert? I still have the stock 5 pin... other thing too... I forgot the name.
 
Hmm... In that case it could also be the ECU acting up. I'm pretty sure you can't make a 2-pin work on a 4-pin setup, just try swapping the 5-pin ECU you said you have.

Don't worry about it man, your engine should be fine. I just bent a pushrod on my 318 by accident and was worried I messed up my cam or bent a valve... turned out to be fine, once I got a new pushrod!! As long as you didn't touch anything inside the engine and it ran OK before you turned it off it shouldn't be a major problem.
 
So I need a four pin ECU to run a 2 pin ballast?
Urgh! more money...

I guess I'm so paranoid because I've been told how important the initial start up was, here I run mine for 2 minutes and it's dead. It just isn't what I was told how you should break in a engine, so now I'm afraid something will be wrong.

So I guess, I'll go in this order...

1. Take out spark plugs, crank over a few times to make sure it's not flooded
2. reset timing
3. Replace ballast and ECU

Any other thoughts?

Oh, and when advancing timing does the mark on the balancer go up or down?

Thanks!
 
for testing purposes you can run the ign + to coil + through the spare you have while leaving the ecu plugged into the old one. a little more simple to just rig a jumper for now to see if thats your issue and if it is, just buy a new resistor
 
:compress: its the balast resistor...replace that..its cheap.

while its at 2500 break in youll want to blip the throttle each 30 seconds or so...also...

.dont just let it set at 2500...move it around a little.
all while staying above 2500
also keep a garden hose handy to drizzle over teh radiator if the temps
start to creep up...fwiw.
cheapst..
 
Why would that ballast die now? It was a /6 car, was this maybe to much for the ballast after 35 years?
 
Unrelated to your drive-ability issue.

Soak a large beach towel in a bucket of water and keep it handy as well as a charged garden hose, just in case you have a fire. Throw the open towel over the engine if necessary. Much better than cleaning up an ABC extinguisher mess.

An engine fire can get out of hand in a hurry taking the car and the garage.
 
dont start changing parts till you figure out whats wrong. take your time and verify spark and fuel. check spark while cranking the moter. if you have spark the moduels good.if you dont check power with the key in run and start. you can check the resister with an ohm meter. when their bad they read open.you can check the timing with out the moter runing to verify that
 
Every time you release the key from start to run you get one spark...
replace the ballast resistor.
 
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