mando440dart
Member
Valves hanging open? Check the valve train.
Idle shake
- Thread starter shep76
- Start date
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shep76
Well-Known Member
Neutral
I should do another compression test. I looked through my notes. 120 was the lowest. 140 was the highest. I don’t have a leak down tester. I did take off valve cover this week and noticed small bits of sludge.
shep76
Well-Known Member
I’m not really sure how to do that. I may need to get a book.
The vacuum is not that low and the needle isn't fluctuating enough to worry about. The engine doesn't sound like it's running rough and the cam is not big enough to have much lope. There's 3 pages of guesses here that could drive you crazy if you chase all that has been mentioned. Put the air cleaner back on, close the hood and go have fun.
You've already done it. It's called a compression test.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liability.
Probably a stock bottom. Drive until it burns too much oil and then start over.
All due respect to everybody saying it's okay... 20 lbs shy in one is not okay.
Do a leak down to identify the culprit and
plan on a new motor down the rd.
12" in neutral with tiny cam is ****!!!
All due respect to everybody saying it's okay... 20 lbs shy in one is not okay.
Do a leak down to identify the culprit and
plan on a new motor down the rd.
12" in neutral with tiny cam is ****!!!
I'll make it as short as possible. I had a similar issue with my 360 all last summer. After replacing the entire ignition piece by piece plugs, wires, dist., coil moduel, timing. No improvement. I put a scope on it it was skipping but on different cyl.all the time I put the last part on so I could tell my self it could not be ignition issue. Replaced ballist resistor and it's gone. It's a 4 prong resister. 10 bucks. Not saying it's you problem but it's 10 bucks. My experience with ballist registers was they work or not, no intermittent issues. Fyi.
shep76
Well-Known Member
thank you. I tried jumping the ballast for a few seconds and didn’t notice any difference.
I did another compression test. Not sure if I just recorded the previous wrong. This one seemed pretty consistent
125,125,125,130,130,125,130,130
#3 plug looks gummy to me. The others seem good, the pics make them seem black but they were not bad. #3 seems to be sparking good but strangely didn’t hear a real difference when I would disconnect it.
Those compression numbers look better. Start out with a fresh set of plugs
Need a better ignition > like Mopar HEI conversion with the OEM available 60,000 volt E-Coils.
This plug looked just like your carboned up plugs. It burned itself clean with the HEI E-Coil conversion. Did not take much driving either.
Burned Clean..... right down to the white insulator.
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junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
no he doesn't. he needs to clean those plugs or get a fresh set and establish a baseline
stop touting HEI like it's some kind of magic fix for something that isn't broken.
HEI isn't gong to fix oil in the cylinder because of bad valve guides or poor compression/comustion because the rings are shot, it's not going to fix an issue where the mixture is too rich because of the wrong jets or incorrect carb settings.
a kajillion volt E coil isn't going to do a damn thing for a problem that isn't ignition related.
I didn’t read every post. Did anyone mention checking the advance springs in dizzy. light springs or broken/missing springs can have erratic timing.
shep76
Well-Known Member
There ngk 2635 gr4. Only a few months old.
NGK > GR4
Yeah they are carboned up.
Exact same plug and heat range as this clean burning one.
NGK > GR4
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Not knowing the history of your engine?
I always do the seafoam treatment to the existing running used engines. Loosens up any carbon around the rings and in the ring lands.
Helps clean up the combustion chamber and build back compression as the rings will seat better. Hence cleaner burn and less fowling of the spark plugs.
2 tablespoons of seafoam poured into each spark plug hole, let it set for 2 days to soak down into and around the rings.
Then start it up again, take it out run it up for a good 30 mile drive. Then change out the oil and filter with some good 10w 30 motor oil and then run it up good and warm again.
Guarantee you will have have higher numbers on your next compression test, because the rings will be sealing better. No smoke out the exhaust either.
Take your time and do this right, makes a good running engine out of it.
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I always do the seafoam treatment to the existing running used engines. Loosens up any carbon around the rings and in the ring lands.
Helps clean up the combustion chamber and build back compression as the rings will seat better. Hence cleaner burn and less fowling of the spark plugs.
2 tablespoons of seafoam poured into each spark plug hole, let it set for 2 days to soak down into and around the rings.
Then start it up again, take it out run it up for a good 30 mile drive. Then change out the oil and filter with some good 10w 30 motor oil and then run it up good and warm again.
Guarantee you will have have higher numbers on your next compression test, because the rings will be sealing better. No smoke out the exhaust either.
Take your time and do this right, makes a good running engine out of it.
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Good idea to run 1/2 a pint of seafoam in the engine oil when doing the 1st step of the seafoam process. Helps clean the rings and piston ring lands from the oil side of the engine.
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