if power top fails to work

-
R

rdb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2012
Messages
173
Reaction score
2
Location
Maryland
I guess a power top like I had on my '64 Dart GT convert can fail for electrical, hydraulic, or mechanical kinds of reasons.

What I would like to know is if it fails can it be moved by hand as if it were a non power top, or is it unmoveable, stuck in place, wherever it is. Bad enough being rained on cause it won't close, but having it fail in mid position also really bad if it can not be moved to full up or down.

Maybe failures are/were rare, but 50 year old stuff is what it is.

Also can a manual top ever be converted to power? Sounds like a big job and not even the frame for the top is the same, they say.
 
rdb said:
I guess a power top like I had on my '64 Dart GT convert can fail for electrical, hydraulic, or mechanical kinds of reasons.

What I would like to know is if it fails can it be moved by hand as if it were a non power top, or is it unmoveable, stuck in place, wherever it is. Bad enough being rained on cause it won't close, but having it fail in mid position also really bad if it can not be moved to full up or down.

Maybe failures are/were rare, but 50 year old stuff is what it is.
Click to expand...

Depends what the failure is....if a line breaks and all the hydraulic fluid drains out, you CAN move the top by hand, but it isn't easy! If the pump fails, there's no moving the top, unless you create the above situation (draining the fluid, or disconnecting the hyd. cylinders). Mechanical...well, that depends on what the mechanical problem is...seizure, bending, etc.


Also can a manual top ever be converted to power? Sounds like a big job and not even the frame for the top is the same, they say.
Click to expand...

You can, but the whole lift structure needs to be changed. The manual top uses springs to help raising and lowering the top in place of the hydraulic cylinders. The mech is completely different between systems.
 
I had the pump go bad in my '65 Chrysler. As a temporary solution, I disconnected the two lines from the pump and connected them to each other with a fitting from the hardware store. This allowed the top to be moved by hand without having to drain all the fluid from the lines/cylinders.
 
D Cluley said:
I had the pump go bad in my '65 Chrysler. As a temporary solution, I disconnected the two lines from the pump and connected them to each other with a fitting from the hardware store. This allowed the top to be moved by hand without having to drain all the fluid from the lines/cylinders.
Click to expand...

Okay...interesting... so where does all the excess fluid go that comes out of the cylinders in order for them to collapse?
 
Thank you for the info. I really did want to know-- you really could get stuck.
Sounds like maybe I should go w/ the non power top one for now.
 
When I bought my 65 the guy had a parts car I could of taken all the power stuff from..but I like mine 'simple' and no risk of fluid puking all over my car. It's easy to put up and down manually.
 
To each, their own, but I like my power top....not that it gets used that much...usually down in the spring, and up again in the fall!
 
65Val said:
Okay...interesting... so where does all the excess fluid go that comes out of the cylinders in order for them to collapse?
Click to expand...


To the other end of the cylinder. The piston just moves up and down inside the cylinder depending on which end the fluid is being pumped into.
 
When I first bought my 67, one cylinder was weak. One person would operate the switch while a second person lifted on the top to get it started(this was going from the down position to the up position)after about a quarter of the way it would go by itself.
 
In case of hydraulic failure, it might be easier to just remove the bolts that attach the hydraulic pistons to the top frame. Then you can open and close it by hand without any resistance from the cylinders, or having to drain or bleed anything. You could even remove the hydraulics entirely and just go manual.
 
X2 Saves weight and keeps it simple. That's how mine rolls.
 
mvh said:
In case of hydraulic failure, it might be easier to just remove the bolts that attach the hydraulic pistons to the top frame. Then you can open and close it by hand without any resistance from the cylinders, or having to drain or bleed anything. You could even remove the hydraulics entirely and just go manual.
Click to expand...


That is what I said above.
 
My car sat for a few years without having the top opened or closed. When I finally tried to use it the hydraulic motor was seized. The oil in it had turned to gorilla glue. I cleaned it out and put it back together but still couldn't get it to open under its own power. It is possible to go top up or down if you slowly pull to open or push to close. I think I may try to unbolt the pistons on mine as described by Oklacarcollecto.
 
I may be mistaken but I believe almost all hyd. Pumps are pretty much interchangeable.
I'm sure some one will correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Ray I believe you are correct. The pump in my Sebring looks almost identical to my 68 other than the electric plug on it
 
There may have originally been differences in the manufacturers original pumps, but the all worked the same. I'm pretty sure all the replacement pumps available are the same now.

BC
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top