If you had $2K to play with...

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Wedge

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Kerrville, TEXAS
I'm saving up to do some overhauling. I figure $2,000 would be enough to do a pretty good job. I want increased torque (mostly) and hp too. I plan on this being a daily driver but I want to have some fun with it as well. I've viewed this forum quite a bit and noticed a lot of people have overhauled there six's succefully. I don't want to sound like a jerk but I don't want opinions. I'd like concrete specs from actual overhauls. So what can I do with $2K that will give me what I want?
 
I don't know how "concrete" this is but just after stagecoach era I had a 225 /6 in a '64 B-Body. Shaved head 50, 2bbl manifold and carb, 2.76 to 3.55 rear end gears and lost 1.2 - 1.3 seconds ( if memory serves, slept a bunch since ) off 1/4 mile time ( 3spd manual ).
 
The electric fuel injection is more efficient than any carb, cost about the same as a six pack set up, yet you get way more bang for your buck. I would follow my lead, find a 383 RB (raised deck) block and build a 431 stroker out of it. 440 source has everything you need from ported stealth heads and complete stroker kits, then slap an electric fuel injection on and move to the next part of the car.
 
sorry, what is EFI? and either way you can always get a single barrel butterfly, check that link out.
 
I would start by doing away with the /6.

Why do people always do this in the Slant Forum? Anyway.... :rolleyes:

With $2000, get some nice valves and good headwork done, a two barrel carb setup minimun or a small four barrel, headers and exhaust and.... you're close if not out of money by then.

After that, you need to beef up the rear end (if your car has a 7 1/4) and some discs so you can stop. You're going to need a little more dinero I think... :D

Maybe some of the more experienced Slanters will chime in, but I'm pretty sure that's not far off.

PS: Or how about a turbo SL6, eh? That sounds like fun! :toothy10:
 
What sort of valves, head-work, etc, etc, etc...

Good source for valves here.
I forgot to mention cam, pistons and rings as well, as well as some ARP hardware for safety (don't want to throw a rod now do ya?).

As far as head work, it depends on your piston and cam choice. There is a good amount of homework involved, like figuring out compression ratios and what not.

From there, the machinist will know what kind of work to do to your head. I know a few members (I think Frank is one of them) on slantsix.org do headwork. I'm pretty sure he is pretty busy lately, but I'm sure they will be more than happy to recommend a place for you to get the work done.

The head is where all the power is going to come from, and if not done right, your wasting your hard earned cash just bolting up parts. Headwork alone will run you near $1000 if not more.

I know Doug Dutra sold a nice, fixed up head on the SL6 site for like $900 or so not too long ago. I'd suggest (like some of the members have already suggested) to go to the slantsix.org site and do some reading.

Also, if you ask on that site, you will get more answers, faster.
I am in no way an expert, but a performance SL6 isn't just a "bolt on deal". There is no aftermarket aluminum heads and stroker setups.

It all has to be done the "old school way", lots of research to combine the right parts, math, machining and of course the most important ingredient..... american greenback.

Hope this helps you out a bit. SL6 aren't for everyone, but they sure are fun and they last a really long time. Not to say V8's aren't fun either, they are just all fun in different ways. That's why I have a SL6 car and a BB car.

It's all Mopar at the end of the day anyway! Good luck bud! :D
 
this is what i've got going into my motor. i haven't run it yet, so i can't say how it will perform, but i think it will be a strong runner.

used head (complete with rockers, valve cover, etc) from pick n pull $150
big valves (1.44 and 1.70?) from 'engine builder' on ebay $80
valve springs for a 340 $?
head shaved 0.090, valves seats cut bigger, hardened exhaust, valves installed $500
hooker super comp headers $450
high pressure oil relief spring $8
offenhauser intake (used) $200
holley 390 cfm vac secondary, electric choke (used) $200
mopar mild performance cam .460 lift 268 duration? (dont have specs in front of me) $200
miscellaneous fasteners, engine paint, cleaning supplies, carb rebuild kit, etc. $100
harmonic damper (see my other post regarding that debacle...) $170
all prices very approximate

also, will need exhaust setup done, probably couple hundred
still trying to source a windage tray... and stall converter

always budget more than you think you will need, cause you WILL go over budget.
 
Its called feature creep. LOL
As for the build if it were MY money. Erson 280/270 cam (this is a street car right) 1.70/1.44 valves ( from Engine Builder) Over bore to at least .040 to deshroud the valves,
Cut .050 off the deck and the same off the head to bump the compression up to 9.5 to 1. YOU DID measure it right, Induction of your choice 2bbl for street or 4 bbl for race I like the AUSSIE SPEED Hurricane manifolds (but I do sell them :) )
Eddy 1404or5 carb for 4 bbl or Carter BBD for 2 bbl.
Do the oil mod to the block and head and a race prepped oil pump with the hardened drive gear (also available from me).
If you have an extra 1K then I would go Wiseco/ K1 .105 overbore metic ring pack piston/rod kit and really kick some butt.
Frank
 
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