Yes, i have had that apart, if you mean the connector on the red wire that looks like a fuse connector but its not? Cleaned it up as it's like a plug connector. Seems good there. Should i drop the steering column and pull the dash? Have a poke around in there or just pull out bulkhead connector first? Thanks for the replyFirst step to help you narrow down is determine what exactly (if anything) does and does not work. I know what I think about part of what you said, but the oil light confuses---because it "should not work" either
In any case I would start with the bulkhead connector itself and I THINK there is more than one fuse link in that car.
You were talking about the red wire. If there is NO power at the interior of the car, that is for sure a problem right in the connector itself. IF you look at the connector, you can see latches where the sections come apart
One problem you have is that because it's a later model, there are no free service manuals available. Go to MyMopar and there is a somewhat wiring diagram, but these leave out some details (of connectors and options) and may not show "everything"
I may have a poor quality copy of the wiring. You need to look around the www and find a CD/DVD or paper reprint of the shop manual
Thanks, yeah i have the dash out, been probing like mad, theres power to the dash main power in but zero power to fuse block . I have all sorts of test lights and digital so good there. Wiring not my strong point mechanical much much better.The ONE advantage you have over your late model over us with "older" ones is that you do not have what we call a "full current" ammeter. This means the bulkhead connector is under less strain
Also look for and check other fuse links. These always have an obvious bulge "for no reason" and or a molded tag hanging out to the side.
Checking fuses.......don't just look at them. Some of the fuses are hot all the time, some are hot only when the key is in "run" or "accessory." And one fuse, the INST fuse, is only hot when the light switch is "on" but ignore that one for now
To check fuses, get power TO them and check at the fuse with a light/ meter. Then apply a load such as tail lights heater whatever is on that fuse, and make certain you have power at both ends of the fuse clips
For these tests, a test lamp is often better/ easier than a meter
Thank you very much!Here is a darn poor copy of the wiring. This was photos from paper manual Click the black icon and save as its a pdf
Thanks, yeah i have the dash out, been probing like mad, theres power to the dash main power in but zero power to fuse block . I have all sorts of test lights and digital so good there. Wiring not my strong point mechanical much much better.
No rear defrost, thanks for the diagramLets step back to look at the basic wiring concept.
There's a welded splice which joined the alternator and the battery with the main feeds to the key switch, lights, fusebox hot, and sometimes horn. Regardless of where power came from, battery or alternator, it went where needed from the main splice.
The fuse box has 2 - 3 fuses that get power only when the key is on, and 2-3 that are always hot.
View attachment 1715787552
Above I wrote "a welded splice which joined" in past tense. That's because '75 is a little different.
Also if the car had rear window defrost its again a little different.