Ignition problems I think

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68dart225

mopar rookie
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Oct 22, 2010
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hawaii
Ok im getting desperate.
I bought a rusty dart that ran kinda rough and after fixing a vacuum leak (loose manifold bolts) and turning up the idle a little, it was running better.

I flushed the cooling system, changed the oil, thermostat, spark plugs, spark plug tube seals, plug wires, cap and rotor all in the same sitting. Now the engine will crank but won't start. I am not a professional but I have certainly done these simple things many times on other cars.

So I think something is wrong with the ignition. I'm pretty sure it has been upgraded to electronic. The coil wire that goes to the cap is putting out spark but th spark at the plug seems weak. I have read a lot about changing the ballast resistor but don't know where its located the only module on the firewall is the voltage regulator and I changed it out with no effect.

Bring on the knowledge, what do you think?
 
You gapped the plugs and they are correct for the application?

I have to ask, the plug wires are in the correct firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4

You say the spark at the plugs seems weak, how does it look off the coil wire, nice and blue?

I would say that if you are getting spark there is nothing wrong with the coil and ignition module. Were there points in the distributor when you put on the new rotor? If so then it's not electronic. For it to be electronic there would be a reluctor and pick-up assembly in it.

What is the voltage reading on the coil + while you are cranking it and what is battery voltage while cranking?
 
I gapped them at .035
firing order is correct
I started replacing the new parts with the old parts one by one. The motor fired after replacing the plug wires back to the old ones. I tested all the new ones with my ohmmeter they were fine but for some reason they didnt want to work. The motor fired but sounds like a misfire somewhere. The last thing to do is put the old plugs in. I guess this dart didnt want a tune up... or NAPA gave me all the wrong parts. I love Hawaii but I wouldnt be surprised
 
Take the dist. cap off and look. If it has breaker points--it's not electronic. If it has a module in there, it may be aftermarket electronic, like Pertronics, if it has a star wheel, might be the Mopar electronic.

Now pull the no1 plug, figure a way to get something down there so you can detect compression. bump the engine, until you start to get compression, then look for the timing marks to "come up." Bump the engine until the marks are somewhere between 10BTC (before) or near TDC. Look where the rotor is pointing, check to see which tower it's pointing to on the cap, and verify that is where no1 wire is.

Do you have the wires going around the cap in the right direction?

If doubt about the quality of spark, temporarily check spark by using a grounded test lead and crank the engine, with your test lead held right at the top of the coil tower. Sometimes resistor wires can make a spark appear weak.

Also, if you are making this test with the key in "run" and cranking the engine by shorting the solenoid or relay, you will not be getting the hottest spark, because the coil resistor bypass will not be engaged--Chryslers do this in the ign. switch.

How many terminals on the coil resistor? Two only may be the old points system
 
They are NGK but I think wrong part #.
It has an aftermarket electronic ignition. there is a module under the cap and a flame thrower coil.
At 10 BTDC the rotor is pointed at #1. my firing order is 153624 clockwise.
 
What NGK is in there? On the older slants (with spark plug tubes) I like the extended tip ZFRN 5. They seem to work MUCH better than the standard tip plugs.
However this is most likely not your problem.
Frank
 
Thanks for all your help.
I was getting desperate because I go back to work monday so I called a mobile mechanic he came, I gave him 100 bucks he told me to put the new parts back on and when I did it fired right up. Everyone got a good laugh especially my wife. You guys have a great weekend!
 
Thanks for all your help.
I was getting desperate because I go back to work monday so I called a mobile mechanic he came, I gave him 100 bucks he told me to put the new parts back on and when I did it fired right up. Everyone got a good laugh especially my wife. You guys have a great weekend!

How weird was that!!!!
 
If you have a problem with your Thermostat & your radiator, is it possible that they can cause a problem with the ignition? Can it also cause any other major problems if it is not fixed right away, and you continue you drive like that? If anyone can help that would be great, I don't want to end up damaging the car anymore then it already is. Cheers!
 
what is wrong with the thermostat and radiator? If its overheating it can cause serious damage to your engine and shouldnt be driven until fixed. As far as causing problems with your ignition I would say no. what makes you think something is wrong with your ignition?
 
So you gave some 100 bucks to tell you to put all the new stuff back on? I'm speechless.
 
yeah i was too. All part of my learning experience. I must have just had something hooked up wrong. I went over it so many times, though.
 
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