Ignition switch

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340Dust-her

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Anyone happen to have a picture of one? I'm not getting power to the starter relay, so it seems that my ignition switch has gone bad. The car is a 1971 plymouth Duster. I can't tell if its in the steering column or dash? It isnt a tilt steering wheel if that helps any.
 
340Dust-her said:
Anyone happen to have a picture of one? I'm not getting power to the starter relay, so it seems that my ignition switch has gone bad. The car is a 1971 plymouth Duster. I can't tell if its in the steering column or dash? It isnt a tilt steering wheel if that helps any.
Click to expand...

The key actually goes in a lock cylinder and the electrical switch is behind it
 
could it be a possible faulty relay ? maybe a burnt fusible link?
 
it is the yellow wire coming out of the steering column on the end of the plug. if you have power there than you could have bad wires, relay or neutral safety switch.
 
They came equipped with neutral safety switches? The relay is working. I had my probe on the relay and had someone turn the switch. Not getting power. I wish i had a schematic for this thing.
 
save these and you can zoom in on them. Sorry I just scanned them.

wirediag71dart-1.jpg

wirediag71dart-2.jpg
 
I came across an old manual. Looking at the schematic, isee a cross symbol. Is this a a harness connector? Lastly, i see a small junction connector with letters. Where would i be able to find this? I hate to be a pain in the rear, but weather isnt improving and i cant exactly work on the car since its outside. Hope this helps if any.

sche.jpg
 
The one with the letters on it is the bulkhead connecter in the firewall. The one with the arrow pointing is the connecter for the fusable link. To disconnect that kills everything inside the car.
 
You guys have been more than helpful. I really do appreciate it. I was going through the whole wiring harness and the only possibility seems that its the fusible link. Getting power from the ignition switch when turning the key. Also getting power from Neutral Safety switch. This whole engine not starting fiasco started with my mistake. I reversed the polarity of the ignition coil. I bought one from autozone and im getting spark. As of now I have to time it accordingly and run it. Still not turning over by the switch as im thinking its the fusible link, but I'll certainly get to it later today. I really appreciate all the help and input.
 
Mine is having the same issue, i replaced my switch this weekend, but it still wont start with the key.

I have power inside the car, the buzzer works, the lights for the brake and oil come on when i turn the key.

I put a remote starter on the starter and turn the key On, and it starts fine.

I tried grounding the NSS( test lead from -Bat term to G connector on relay) still didnt start with the key.
I think mine may be the relay itself.
 
the start signal wire is the samllest on the relay (Tan I think). hang a test light on it, clip end to ground, and prop it where it can be seen then turn the key to start. If the light works the switches are good. Move the test light to the starter side of the relay and try again. If the light doesn't work the relay is bad.
 
Redfish -- thanks for all the test info., really good thread!

I have a possible ignition switch issue as well with my '71 Duster 340, in that after I drive the car for more than 15 minutes the steering column collar near the steering wheel key lock cylinder becomes warm to the touch.

The car has been in storage for about 3 months and I am ready to take it out of storage.

Where would you start with the diagnosis, and what's your best guess as to the cause? High resistance in the wiring?

Any help is appreciated.
 
Vs29H1B said:
Redfish -- thanks for all the test info., really good thread!

I have a possible ignition switch issue as well with my '71 Duster 340, in that after I drive the car for more than 15 minutes the steering column collar near the steering wheel key lock cylinder becomes warm to the touch.

The car has been in storage for about 3 months and I am ready to take it out of storage.

Where would you start with the diagnosis, and what's your best guess as to the cause? High resistance in the wiring?

Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
The first thing I would do is inspect the harness connecter. There are 2 connecters exiting the column . The one from signal switch has smaller wires.
Copper is an exellent heat conducter so if the ignition switch is heating up its connecter should get warm too. I've seen those connecters melted so bad that the switch side has to be destroyed to get the 2 apart. Lets hope the cars harness side isn't damaged beyong reuse.
That igntion switch isn't as hard to replace as it is just annoying. They used 73736 different types of hardware in there so half the tool box is required. LOL
I must repeat a warning about aftermarket switches out there. Many of them have a extra (WRONG) wire in them. Hook it up directly from the package and you'll blow the dash light fuse.
 
RedFish said:
The first thing I would do is inspect the harness connecter. There are 2 connecters exiting the column . The one from signal switch has smaller wires.
Copper is an exellent heat conducter so if the ignition switch is heating up its connecter should get warm too. I've seen those connecters melted so bad that the switch side has to be destroyed to get the 2 apart. Lets hope the cars harness side isn't damaged beyong reuse.
That igntion switch isn't as hard to replace as it is just annoying. They used 73736 different types of hardware in there so half the tool box is required. LOL
I must repeat a warning about aftermarket switches out there. Many of them have a extra (WRONG) wire in them. Hook it up directly from the package and you'll blow the dash light fuse.
Click to expand...

Thank You Redfish!

If I find the connectors exiting the column in good shape, as well as the car's harness side, where else should I look to find the source of the problem?

Would running a wire from the alternator output side directly to the starter relay, thereby bypassing the dash ammeter/voltage regulator circuit, help with this? I see guys running this single wire bypass all the time, as an answer to avoiding a melt down at the dash.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!
 
I dont have a lisence to practice shade tree mechanics. sorry
 
I clicked the links to view those pages again just to see if they had been edited. Nothing in there about igntion switches warming the keys.
The conditions they address are most often caused by add on accessories like amps, fog lamps, etc.. , overloading the cars electrical components.
 
No, that entire article was about replacing the Ammeter with a volt meter, and re-routing the amp output from the Alt output side to the starter relay. The bulkhead connector and the dash volt limiter have been problems for some. I've never had the problem, but some on Moparts have had the Ammeter problem and endured dash fires. This article provides instructions on how to make a couple of minor wiring changes to avoid the problem.

Nothing about adding high powered stereos, high powered headlamps, electric fans, and I'm not going there. My car is in basic stock form and thats where I'm keeping it, as it's a # matching original '71 340 Duster.

I guess it's time I get out the digital volt-ohmmeter and start testing the two connectors, the harness, the bulkhead connector, and all the associated wires for continuity, resistance, breaks in the wire runs, and look for corrosion.
 
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