I'm a friggin' stupid, idiot, moron...

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Had this happen to mine. Had it at aguys shop that had no heat . I asked him to drain the block out ,He said he did. I got it home and several months went buy, I had not checked the engine ( I was working on other things at the time)desided to put fluids back in and as I was filling the radiator I could hear something running on the floor. Yup! all the frost plugs had blown. Had to pull the engine to replace them. Got the engine running ,ran for about an hour off and on ,took it for a spin , comming back home noticed steam from under the hood. Opened the hood and noticed brown goo. Not good. Needless to say pulled heads and had them magged. I had a cracked head, had to be welded and redecked. $1000 mistake for someones neglect and stupidity. I have tried getting ahold of the guy but I think he skipped. So your not alone. It just pisses ya off when you miss the small stuff.
 
That sucks out loud! Sorry to hear of your misfortune, get that sum beatch fixed! It's a beautiful car!
 
I used to have an inboard-outboard chebby boat, so I lived in that forum, until I felt I knew what I was doing. Forget to drain- cracked externally, and usually right down the lifter valley. Those aren't freeze plugs; that's where they get the casting sand out of the water core.

Those guys tried welding, epoxy; usually last 6 months. Too much thermal action working on it. Hot/cold. They would get a used block.

Good luck, feel your pain. Hey, I ran a 340 for 3 miles, thinking I had lost oil pressure. I had. Damm spinning bearings.
 
4spdragtop said:
Sorry to hear about your luck!! Sucks to say the least!! I used to work at a Caterpillar dealership and the mechanics used "Belzona" some times to fix cracks...CAT would even warranty it! Might be worth a shot.. here is a link http://www.belzona.com/applications.aspx
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this is good stuff.I have fixed a couple of blocks with it.one was really bad that's been 4yr.ago...........Artie
 
If ya weld it just be thinking Preheat, Preheat amd more Preheat and then use the right rod. Nickel. This rod aint cheap. You'll need to grind out the crack and clean it very well. I have been sucessful on my cast welding on my 5' tiller cases. Lots of stress at that point and still holding around the bearing holes. Keep your work HOT and let cool very slowly in an oven if possible. Another option was given in an article in one of the latest Mopar Muscle magazines. Shouldn't be a lot of pressure in that water resevoir. Good luck with it. Get ya an old cast iron manifold and grind ya a practice groove and try your hand at that before the real stuff. No hill for a stepper.
Small Block
 
did something similar to one of the jeep cherokees i had. got stuck in a pond in january out wheelin. didnt check the diff fluid and it froze. pulled the cover off and there wasnt hardly any gear oil in it. just a frozen chunk inside the housing. a few days later i rebuilt it. soo after my wheelin` days were over.

another time i got drunk and decided to install the floor shifter in my car. had it all mounted and ready to go. my buddy got under the car and told me to put it in gear to adjust it. i had installed the shifter backwards. it would ratchet from P, R and N. and you had to go through the gate to get to 1st gear. the holes are still in the floor from that one.
 
Small Block said:
The article i mentioned earlier for the fix on the crack is in MM in the March 2012 issue.
Small Block
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I'll check the newstands, thanks.

As an update, I installed a new core plug and then pressurized the system while empty. It actually held pressure pretty good. There was some seepage at the crack and at the new plug - which is frustrating considering I used sealer on it when I installed it.

Figuring I had nothing to lose at this point I picked up a 32 oz bottle of K&W Block Seal with "Nano Technology". Anything with nano technology's got to be amazing, right? Not a big fan of snake-oil, bandaid fix at best solutions but, like I said, not much to lose.

I disconnected my heater hoses (didn't want that stuff in my core), pulled the stat and followed the directions to the T which involves letting it idle for 30 min. I went an hour. Pressurized the system again - no leaks. Drained it all out and left the system open to dry/cure overnight per the instructions. Flushed it today and pressure tested it again. All good. No leaks. No oil contamination. Runs fine. And yes, antifreeze now resides inside.

Gonna keep an eye on it to see how well the stuff works until a more permanent fix can be made - which will probably involve a weld with #77 rod from Muggyweld. Guys who use the K&W for blown head gaskets think it's a miracle product.
 
My got is a combo with a blower sticking out but it's bolted to a Hemi! Don't forget to jb the outside of the block (I'v found that if you do a 1" diameter around the crack it usually holds and is a lot stronger.
 
You could always take it to a machine shop and have them drill, tap, and plug the crack. If you haven't seen the process, they drill a hole in the crack, tap it, and then thread in and break off a plug, then drill out part of the plug while drilling the next hole in the series, tap it, and repeat.
 
Badart said:
I had a dream a few days ago that I forgot to put antifreeze in my 65 Barracuda. As soon as I woke up I had to go out and check. It was alright. Sorry about your block.
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I was just dreaming about eating a HUGE marshmallow. I woke up and I can't find my pillow...
 
Many years ago a friend had a Cadillac with a monster V8, 572 or something. Anyway... It had a crack spanned from on freeze plug to the next and a stream of water as big as your hand would pour from it.
A bottle of Barsleak fixed it. With the front end up on stands we watched the leak slowly cease
When his wife left him about a year later she took that Cadi. I dont know how long the fix held.
Welding would be a better plan I'm sure. Good luck with it.
 
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