I'm putting 2.02" valves in 360 heads ...

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Killer6 said:
The problem is You won't be able to tell how bad it is until You try to seat the valve, once You've hit it with the cutter, if the valve angle is off, the seat may be screwed
to the point that You'll have to live with it sunk(NOT performance enhancing) or as IQ52 stated..fixed by a machine shop and a seat insert(s) installed. If the drill press
is a sturdy one and tight, You may be successful if setup is done well & carefully. Good luck..............
Not to mention where the valve tip may end up in relation to the rocker arm :eek::eek:................
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A good friend of mine has a proper drill press, real sturdy.

But If I need to put new intake guides in, I'll probably just call the shop that did the exhaust guides. It was $220 for eight.
 
I'm not worried about fitting 2.02" valves.

IMG_9729.JPG
 
360DartGT66 said:
They look mighty nice Karl. For sale? :rolleyes:
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I hadn't intended to sell them...

Sometimes my head guy gets back logged and it's hard to get heads done, so I ran a bunch through when he wasn't too busy... :poke:
A few sets are bookmarked for future builds, and a few sets for spare JIC I need to do a quick head swap to get the car moving... :steering:

But anything is for sale for the right offer.... :D
 
yellow rose said:
Notice the big top cut in that picture? The biggest flow killer I know of, the biggest pressure recovery loss there is is not getting a top cut .100 wide where you can get it.
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I'm trying to decipher what you're saying here. Is the top cut the 30* angle seat cut in this pic?

three-angle-valve-seat-measurments.jpg


The 30* cutter I've ordered is 2 1/8" in diameter. I'm hoping that'll be enough to get a decent cut. My worry is that it'll be too big and interfere with the chamber wall.
 
I'm also planning on polishing up and removing the crests and edges in the chamber like in @krazykuda:s heads above. I might also deck them 1-2 mm (0.040 - 0.080) to get the CR up after doing that.

The head/gasket/piston combo I have right now (different 360 heads, untouched, casting # 578, these are 974) give me pretty darn close to 10.0 to one. I'm no expert but I might be able to get away with higher CR with a bigger cam, right?
 
I only like to mill the head/block face to clean it up and make it square... If you cut too much off, then you make an orphan engine and have to mill the intake to match... then you can't interchange parts with other SB engines...

Get the proper pistons for the compression that you want...
 
krazykuda said:
I only like to mill the head/block face to clean it up and make it square... If you cut too much off, then you make an orphan engine and have to mill the intake to match... then you can't interchange parts with other SB engines...

Get the proper pistons for the compression that you want...
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I'm aware of this, Karl. It'll be a long time before I'm there. It'll depend on what cam I decide on and what the experts have to say about that.

And remember, I want to be able to swap between 'race' setup and 'standard' so changing pistons kind of kills that idea.
 
360DartGT66 said:
I'm trying to decipher what you're saying here. Is the top cut the 30* angle seat cut in this pic?

View attachment 1715112864

The 30* cutter I've ordered is 2 1/8" in diameter. I'm hoping that'll be enough to get a decent cut. My worry is that it'll be too big and interfere with the chamber wall.
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The top cut on the head. Not the valve.
 
I machine heads, do not drill out guides with a drill bit!!!!! you have to use a guide reamer , made for this job!! the reamer has a smaller end on it, goes into guide and keeps it straight as it cuts. also, have to have a driver that fits the reamer, can be used in a drill motor. a drill bit is for making holes. not for doing guides. something to consider.
 
perfacar said:
I machine heads, do not drill out guides with a drill bit!!!!! you have to use a guide reamer , made for this job!! the reamer has a smaller end on it, goes into guide and keeps it straight as it cuts. also, have to have a driver that fits the reamer, can be used in a drill motor. a drill bit is for making holes. not for doing guides. something to consider.
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Got it. I was aware of this but thank you for pointing it out nevertheless. :thumbsup:
 
360DartGT66 said:
I'm trying to decipher what you're saying here. Is the top cut the 30* angle seat cut in this pic?

View attachment 1715112864

The 30* cutter I've ordered is 2 1/8" in diameter. I'm hoping that'll be enough to get a decent cut. My worry is that it'll be too big and interfere with the chamber wall.
Click to expand...

yellow rose said:
.100 if you can get it. Sometimes you just can't. Especially with bigger valves. You can't get it next to the exhaust valve. But every where you can, a nice top cut is a power maker.
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The 2-1/8" shouldn't be too big. Below is a picture of a wide 2-1/4" top cut for a 2.02" valve. It fits inside of a line inscribed around the combustion chamber using a 4.080" gasket.

James Culp EQ heads 016.jpg
 
IQ52 said:
The 2-1/8" shouldn't be too big. Below is a picture of a wide 2-1/4" top cut for a 2.02" valve. It fits inside of a line inscribed around the combustion chamber using a 4.080" gasket.

View attachment 1715113368
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Great pic, thanks for posting it!

Well, I guess maybe I should have posted this thread BEFORE ordering the kit rather than after, huh? I guess I can blend the top cut out into the chamber if I run out of gutter diameter.
 
I use Si valves and guides... usually stainless. If you are replacing the guides uy single groove 11/32 valves or 8mm valves from a Magnum.
 
IQ52 said:
Guys, we stopped using these on the farm in the 1940"s.

10 pcs Valve Seat & Face Cutter Set Atoz Quality Automotive Industry Leader NEW | eBay
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before yall farm boys stopped using this down on the farm, with plenty of attention to detail, did ya harvest a quality job?? or just good nuff to keep a farmall 140 dragging a single row turning plow???

great thread! lotta useful info being posted, got more time than money and all ways wanted to be a machinist but life got in the way!!
 
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