Information on a 340 for my 69 dart

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My 340 was 5k Canadian plus the block (which I had). That's a stock rebuild just like we would have done back in the 80's ready to drop in. (of course that is me building it).
 
Yeah have build a lot of vw/ audi engines
I really don't have a strict budget
I just like having it to drive when I want to so the plan is to have everything done before I do the swap ...building shop truck this year 67 dodge...when that gets done then body on the dart...then the swap
 
nutz said:
It's hard to put a budget on a dream
I have a euro auto shop so would rather spend the $$ to make it right
And always wanted a 340 dart
So here i am
Click to expand...
the heart wants what the heart wants

unfortunately the wallet is the one that bears the brunt of that.

so if you wanna play in 340 land, be prepared to open your wallet W-I-D-E cuz that 15K budget will be gone in the blink of an eye.
 
ha yup that just a number ,money not really the problem if a spread it out over a couple of years
i just not sure what i should be looking for (what came in the 69 ) when i get done want it run like it came from the factory no more no less
i'm the kind of guy that will need to use the oe spring clamps on the hoses
so if something comes up local that fits the car i can run out and buy it
see stuff like 6 pack heads x blocks purple cams ect. not sure what i should be looking for (do i need a forged crank ?? most likely not but if oe in 69 i would want one)
its a manual car man steering (bought a ps box)
if a find a v-8 doner car what is different ,stuff like that are all sb k frame the same post 67
i have a set of small bolt front disks ,spindles calipers ,was that even an option?
then do in need to go big lug pattern to use a 8.75 rear ,would run 355/373 think 411 to low
just don't want sorce the wrong stuff
 
I would have what ever you need in Pa near Easton. Including a 340 block. This is a Mopar A-body repair shop and a engine machine shop. I worked 18 years in Washington NJ. a block from here is checked first and can be done here.
 
nutz said:
ha yup that just a number ,money not really the problem if a spread it out over a couple of years
i just not sure what i should be looking for (what came in the 69 ) when i get done want it run like it came from the factory no more no less
i'm the kind of guy that will need to use the oe spring clamps on the hoses
so if something comes up local that fits the car i can run out and buy it
see stuff like 6 pack heads x blocks purple cams ect. not sure what i should be looking for (do i need a forged crank ?? most likely not but if oe in 69 i would want one)
its a manual car man steering (bought a ps box)
if a find a v-8 doner car what is different ,stuff like that are all sb k frame the same post 67
i have a set of small bolt front disks ,spindles calipers ,was that even an option?
then do in need to go big lug pattern to use a 8.75 rear ,would run 355/373 think 411 to low
just don't want sorce the wrong stuff
Click to expand...
lots to unpack here...

i'll start with the suspension stuff.

you don't *need* a V8 K, you can buy a swap kit and keep your 69 unit. it's fine. if you do, avoid 67 that's one year only with the "bad" idler arm mount. so 68~72 is all the same, as is 73~76 (though different motor mounts, but again a swap kit sorts that right out). the difference here being how the sway bars mount and their connection to the lower control arms. however, the aftermarket has you covered in that department with a whole host of options.

the rear end: 8.75's for a-bodies *only* came in small bolt, but can be upgraded to big bolt.

if you want to run big bolt, the you'll need to source another front brake set up-- stock 73~76 or an aftermarket kit-- and then all the attendant stuff that goes with it. not a big deal, but food for thought.

you'll need to sort our your column or buy one specifically for power steering. the manual column is longer than the power unit. they make adapters for this as well.

one benefit to the big bolt stuff is the availability of rims. but if you're fine with stock, stock, stock then small bolt has you covered.

on the engine side of things don't buy into the hype of "6-pack" stuff. most all of it was the same as standard 340, no need to pay the tax there. also 6 packs never came in a-bodies. 360 heads will do just as good as a job as standard 340 heads. you don't need a forged crank for the power levels you're looking at. selection of cam is at your discretion, if you want stock performance get a stock cam.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I would have what ever you need in Pa near Easton. Including a 340 block. This is a Mopar A-body repair shop and a engine machine shop. I worked 18 years in Washington NJ. a block from here is checked first and can be done
Click to expand...

Oldmanmopar said:
I would have what ever you need in Pa near Easton. Including a 340 block. This is a Mopar A-body repair shop and a engine machine shop. I worked 18 years in Washington NJ. a block from here is checked first and can be here.
Click to expand...
My shop is in Washington
Next to highway sports
You know Vinnie from central hydraulic he has a sweet 68 340 car
 
junkyardhero said:
lots to unpack here...

i'll start with the suspension stuff.

you don't *need* a V8 K, you can buy a swap kit and keep your 69 unit. it's fine. if you do, avoid 67 that's one year only with the "bad" idler arm mount. so 68~72 is all the same, as is 73~76 (though different motor mounts, but again a swap kit sorts that right out). the difference here being how the sway bars mount and their connection to the lower control arms. however, the aftermarket has you covered in that department with a whole host of options.

the rear end: 8.75's for a-bodies *only* came in small bolt, but can be upgraded to big bolt.

if you want to run big bolt, the you'll need to source another front brake set up-- stock 73~76 or an aftermarket kit-- and then all the attendant stuff that goes with it. not a big deal, but food for thought.

you'll need to sort our your column or buy one specifically for power steering. the manual column is longer than the power unit. they make adapters for this as well.

one benefit to the big bolt stuff is the availability of rims. but if you're fine with stock, stock, stock then small bolt has you covered.

on the engine side of things don't buy into the hype of "6-pack" stuff. most all of it was the same as standard 340, no need to pay the tax there. also 6 packs never came in a-bodies. 360 heads will do just as good as a job as standard 340 heads. you don't need a forged crank for the power levels you're looking at. selection of cam is at your discretion, if you want stock performance get a stock cam.
Click to expand...
I bought 15" small bolt rallies
Like the look
So don't want anything after market...need to find 68-72...
 
I guess the next question is brakes was disk an option?
Or do I stay with drums
Then again would like the best that was available in 69
 
nutz said:
I guess the next question is brakes was disk an option?
Or do I stay with drums
Then again would like the best that was available in 69
Click to expand...
The kelsey hayes 4 piston disc brakes were an option on a 69 dart . So yes I believe you already have a set ? They would have been small bolt pattern originally
 
nutz said:
ha yup that just a number ,money not really the problem if a spread it out over a couple of years
i just not sure what i should be looking for (what came in the 69 ) when i get done want it run like it came from the factory no more no less
i'm the kind of guy that will need to use the oe spring clamps on the hoses
so if something comes up local that fits the car i can run out and buy it
see stuff like 6 pack heads x blocks purple cams ect. not sure what i should be looking for (do i need a forged crank ?? most likely not but if oe in 69 i would want one)
its a manual car man steering (bought a ps box)
if a find a v-8 doner car what is different ,stuff like that are all sb k frame the same post 67
i have a set of small bolt front disks ,spindles calipers ,was that even an option?
then do in need to go big lug pattern to use a 8.75 rear ,would run 355/373 think 411 to low
just don't want sorce the wrong stuff
Click to expand...
i don't know which Washington your in but Joe and OMM are both in reasonable driving distance even from the Rt 31 goes through.So there's two 340s and all you did was start a discussion. When I wanted a spare 340 I waited and watched the ads and then bought one.

For what came in '69, look for the magazine reviews (some reprinted by Brooklands books, others on the 'net)
Factory sales lit is available at The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Home Page Go to the Library. Then 1969.

From a '68-72 318/340 doner car I would get the K-frame, the throttle cable and transmission linkage.
If going with the 727 automatic (which is the automatic used behind the 340) you'll need that throttle to transmission 'kickdown' linkage.
(The dual plane intake height calls for some differences from the single planes 2bbl LA engines like the 318 and 273 often came with.)

Your choice on brakes will be drum/drum or disk/drum. Depends how many repeated high speed stops you think you'll be making. Either can be made to work well (but would NOT keep 9" drums if thats what it has now) for everyday normal use. The factory K-H disk hubs are small bolt pattern.

Yes upgrade to the 8.75" axle to be period correct. It has a distinct look and of course is stronger. I'd only go large bolt pattern if you are looking for certain tire and rims. I didn't bother but it would have made some things easier (and cheaper). I run the classic 3.23:1 diff with close to factory diameter tires and get reasonable performance and milage considering the cam. (my autocross tires are a bit shorter).

Factory 340 cam will be torquey and there are a few after market cams that are pretty similar if you want to squeeze a little more omph. Decide if you are staying factory intake and carb.
 
if you're rebuilding the calipers, consider putting stainless steel pistons in them.
 
nutz said:
I guess the next question is brakes was disk an option?
Or do I stay with drums
Then again would like the best that was available in 69
Click to expand...
these are the kind of builds i love to do, like "period correct-ish" but with some nice upgrades that are a little more modern and contemporary.

the best that was available in 69 gets absolutely out shined by a whole host of stuff that's now available and wouldn't change the overall look of the car one bit: better t-bars, springs, sway bars, shocks, tires(!!), wider rims, better brakes, electronic ignion, etc etc etc; but would change the feel of the car in terms of functionality, driveability, ease of maintenance while retaining all of the old school charm.

so yeah, those discs were an option. and if you want to stay small bolt, then that's what you should run.
 
Mattax said:
i don't know which Washington your in but Joe and OMM are both in reasonable driving distance even from the Rt 31 goes through.So there's two 340s and all you did was start a discussion. When I wanted a spare 340 I waited and watched the ads and then bought one.

For what came in '69, look for the magazine reviews (some reprinted by Brooklands books, others on the 'net)
Factory sales lit is available at The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Home Page Go to the Library. Then 1969.

From a '68-72 318/340 doner car I would get the K-frame, the throttle cable and transmission linkage.
If going with the 727 automatic (which is the automatic used behind the 340) you'll need that throttle to transmission 'kickdown' linkage.
(The dual plane intake height calls for some differences from the single planes 2bbl LA engines like the 318 and 273 often came with.)

Your choice on brakes will be drum/drum or disk/drum. Depends how many repeated high speed stops you think you'll be making. Either can be made to work well (but would NOT keep 9" drums if thats what it has now) for everyday normal use. The factory K-H disk hubs are small bolt pattern.

Yes upgrade to the 8.75" axle to be period correct. It has a distinct look and of course is stronger. I'd only go large bolt pattern if you are looking for certain tire and rims. I didn't bother but it would have made some things easier (and cheaper). I run the classic 3.23:1 diff with close to factory diameter tires and get reasonable performance and milage considering the cam. (my autocross tires are a bit shorter).

Factory 340 cam will be torquey and there are a few after market cams that are pretty similar if you want to squeeze a little more omph. Decide if you are staying factory intake and carb.
Click to expand...
Would rather do a 727 console
But being a manual car with a bench and the seats are nice just going to do a 4spd that why I'm staying that way think 323 is a little high for a manual I have an extra 8.75 in my parts truck already rebuilt the shop truck one but heard there in a difference in early an late center sections and not sure of gear ratio and would need a sure grip...
So interested in either of your guys engines.....
I live in Phillipsburg (harmony) so think I'm making new friends
 
junkyardhero said:
these are the kind of builds i love to do, like "period correct-ish" but with some nice upgrades that are a little more modern and contemporary.

the best that was available in 69 gets absolutely out shined by a whole host of stuff that's now available and wouldn't change the overall look of the car one bit: better t-bars, springs, sway bars, shocks, tires(!!), wider rims, better brakes, electronic ignion, etc etc etc; but would change the feel of the car in terms of functionality, driveability, ease of maintenance while retaining all of the old school charm.

so yeah, those discs were an option. and if you want to stay small bolt, then that's what you should run.
Click to expand...
The rims are 15s the first none oe upgrade...yes would upgrade shocks springs ect.
 
Bennoel 10 said:
I believe you can purchase new/rebuilt calipers (kelsey hayes 4 piston) from rock auto. You can use your calipers as a core to avoid a core charge.
Click to expand...
They can on a car that got hit hard hope the spindles aren't bent
Would they be power assist...
Would need to find power booster master/ proportion valve ect.
 
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