Information on a 340 for my 69 dart

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The OP talks about not being worried about being original but is stuck on having a 340 block.

Your gonna pay a lot more than it's worth to have that extra. 040 bore diameter lol.
 
Yea seen a couple on face book
Thats why I started this thread not sure what I should look for
I got a lot of good info
Thanks guys
 
1WildRT said:
Really? How many do you need? They are around... Not cheap, but around...
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right?

Messages Image(3542265987).png
 
1WildRT said:
Smart choice is a roller 360.. But if you gotta have a 340 it's your money...
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True
Ever since I started reading and playing with cars i always wanted a 340 dart ...now I have the dart need the 340 ...wouldn't even do it
But my kid is starting to like cars and was asking about getting a muscle car
It just wouldn't feel right having a 360
I have a 86 vette,01 audi s4 ,50 dodge pu,65 Austin sprite,57 jeep fc,60 auto union 3=6, I'm just glad the kid wants to work on them
Did I say I might be nutz

A
 
nutz said:
True
Ever since I started reading and playing with cars i always wanted a 340 dart ...now I have the dart need the 340 ...wouldn't even do it
But my kid is starting to like cars and was asking about getting a muscle car
It just wouldn't feel right having a 360
I have a 86 vette,01 audi s4 ,50 dodge pu,65 Austin sprite,57 jeep fc,60 auto union 3=6, I'm just glad the kid wants to work on them
Did I say I might be nutz

A
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How about posting a pic or two of the dart ??
 
Sad but true have a 13 audi a8 4.0 twin turbo the thing is scary fast and you don't feel it 45 to 100 in a couple of seconds I know it will blow the doors off the dart when done and be safer
 
I understand the want for a 340 Dart. I felt the same. Be aware of the differences in timing cover, water pump, pulleys, etc. between earlier (68-69) and 70 and later. 70 and later parts are easier to find. BTW, someone on here has some NOS disc brake master cylinders for a body for sale. They don't show up often.
 
one owner cali car
looks better under then on top ,couldn't believe how easy it was to replace the rear springs .. had a repaint has old man dents everywhere
was just going to redo the body and drive it till my kid talked me into making hot
haven't even driven it with the too up yet ...don't like the white interior untill i left it in the sun with the top down

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etngeorge said:
I understand the want for a 340 Dart. I felt the same. Be aware of the differences in timing cover, water pump, pulleys, etc. between earlier (68-69) and 70 and later. 70 and later parts are easier to find. BTW, someone on here has some NOS disc brake master cylinders for a body for sale. They don't show up often.
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so 68/69 has different tc wp pulleys does it fit 70 up block ....(would like it to look 69)
 
nutz said:
so 68/69 has different tc wp pulleys does it fit 70 up block ....(would like it to look 69)
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As long as you get all the parts for which ever design it'll work... As mentioned 70 & up is easier to find..

The radiator outlets changed so the waterpump & hoses are different, the timing cover & harmonic balancer are different, brackets & pullies....
 
then next question do heads have different cc chambers think i would like to be around 9.5 to 1 ratio not like i need crazy big valves
funny i thought all sb mopar would use the same timing cover stuff
not sure but i had a set of 273 comando rockers think they are gone now many years ago
 
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nutz said:
then next question do heads have different cc chambers think i would like to be around 9.5 to 1 ratio not like i need crazy big valves
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The 68-71 340's have 2.02 intakes, 72 & 73 have 1.88... The bigger valves don't lose any torque so it really doesn't matter.... All original 340's have open chamber heads....

68-71 are rated at 10.5 but measure out to a true 9.6ish...
72-73 are rated at 8.5 but really are less than 8...

The drop was accomplished by lowering the C/H...
 
1WildRT said:
As long as you get all the parts for which ever design it'll work... As mentioned 70 & up is easier to find..

The radiator outlets changed so the waterpump & hoses are different, the timing cover & harmonic balancer are different, brackets & pullies....
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ok makes sense is it all small block or just 340s so need rad to match
 
nutz said:
ok makes sense is it all small block or just 340s so need rad to match
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All, the 340 generally has a Federal P/S pump, 318 commonly has a Saginaw... But I've seen either pimp on either engine so on a no numbers deal don't sweat it...

340 Exhaust manifolds are 340 only & $$$ most guys run headers cause they are cheaper & make more power...
 
1WildRT said:
All, the 340 generally has a Federal P/S pump, 318 commonly has a Saginaw... But I've seen either pimp on either engine so on a no numbers deal don't sweat it...

340 Exhaust manifolds are 340 only & $$$ most guys run headers cause they are cheaper & make more power...
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have to have manifolds
not that matters now but what color did they go orange 70?
the other thing is factory air cleaner ...did it have a heat riser ?
 
nutz said:
have to have manifolds
not that matters now but what color did they go orange 70?
the other thing is factory air cleaner ...did it have a heat riser ?
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No heat to 340 air cleaners till 72

Orange started in 70... 69 depending on who's opinion is Turquoise, Blue or Red...

68-9 340 air cleaner
Mopar P4529026 Black Wrinkle Air Cleaner 340 383 440 Magnum HP Dodge Unsilenced | eBay

70-71 340 air cleaner
1970 71 Mopar 340 4 Barrel Unsilenced Air Cleaner Challenger Cuda Dart Swinger | eBay
 
nutz said:
so 68/69 has different tc wp pulleys does it fit 70 up block ....(would like it to look 69)
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if it has to be 69, then you're looking for 1 year only timing cover. the waterpump is the same 65~69. this will also entail using the correct 22" radiator ($700) and shroud ($200) fan & clutch ($325)

nutz said:
then next question do heads have different cc chambers think i would like to be around 9.5 to 1 ratio not like i need crazy big valves
funny i thought all sb mopar would use the same timing cover stuff
not sure but i had a set of 273 comando rockers think they are gone now many years ago
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heads any of the 340/360 "letter heads" will suffice for the trainspotters-- X, J or O dealer's choice on those and the attendant valve sizes. so get ready to drop real dough there, something in the vicinity of what a decent set of aluminum aftermarket heads would be once everything is said and done.

factory would've be HD hydro rockers, not commando adjustables.

anyway, you can sort the compression ratio out on the build so i wouldn't be worried about chamber size.

nutz said:
have to have manifolds
not that matters now but what color did they go orange 70?
the other thing is factory air cleaner ...did it have a heat riser ?
Click to expand...
340 manifolds are nice headers prices, so expect to be there for that. the headpipes and rest of the exhaust system is readily available, but figure on dropping about 2G's there and a little more if you want "correct" tips.

factory air cleaner: repop ones are about 150, then tack that on again for a pie tin, if you can find one. so you're 300 on that. double it ++ if you want NOS or good condition OG.

the 340 intake manifolds are sought after in the resto crowd so you'll be battling their wallets. you can usually scoop one for around 275 or so. then cough up anywhere from 75~350 for the correct AVS carb. you'll need all the throttle brackets and kickdown **** too, so there's another 200 or so. and the correct valve covers are gonna set you back anywhere from 100~200+ depending on condition. AMD has 70+ ones at 200 but real heads would notice the difference.

getting the pulleys, distribuitor and wires right is no big deal. that stuff is out there and a drop in the bucket comparatively speaking.

340 was orange in 70

thanks for letting me spend about half of your 15K budget. this didn't include obtaining a motor or rebuilding it!
 
junkyardhero said:
if it has to be 69, then you're looking for 1 year only timing cover. the waterpump is the same 65~69. this will also entail using the correct 22" radiator ($700) and shroud ($200) fan & clutch ($325)



heads any of the 340/360 "letter heads" will suffice for the trainspotters-- X, J or O dealer's choice on those and the attendant valve sizes. so get ready to drop real dough there, something in the vicinity of what a decent set of aluminum aftermarket heads would be once everything is said and done.

factory would've be HD hydro rockers, not commando adjustables.

anyway, you can sort the compression ratio out on the build so i wouldn't be worried about chamber size.


340 manifolds are nice headers prices, so expect to be there for that. the headpipes and rest of the exhaust system is readily available, but figure on dropping about 2G's there and a little more if you want "correct" tips.

factory air cleaner: repop ones are about 150, then tack that on again for a pie tin, if you can find one. so you're 300 on that. double it ++ if you want NOS or good condition OG.

the 340 intake manifolds are sought after in the resto crowd so you'll be battling their wallets. you can usually scoop one for around 275 or so. then cough up anywhere from 75~350 for the correct AVS carb. you'll need all the throttle brackets and kickdown **** too, so there's another 200 or so. and the correct valve covers are gonna set you back anywhere from 100~200+ depending on condition. AMD has 70+ ones at 200 but real heads would notice the difference.

getting the pulleys, distribuitor and wires right is no big deal. that stuff is out there and a drop in the bucket comparatively speaking.

340 was orange in 70

thanks for letting me spend about half of your 15K budget. this didn't include obtaining a motor or rebuilding it!
Click to expand...
My Challenger has most of the 340 stuff, but I collected it a long time ago... 70 Air Cleaner, found the bottom part at a swap for $40... The lid is the same as all sorts of stuff so $5 at Pick n Pull.. Exhaust Manifolds, found the passenger side at PnP $15, drivers side at a swap $90... This was around 1989 so a lot of money compared to most manifolds...
I've got a set of X heads, but I'm using Edelbrocks... I've got a 68 340 intake, but I'm running an M1...

In the 70's 340 stuff was everywhere but those cars cars ran hard, got beat on & scrapped so the legend lives on but the parts are scarce.. You want it, you gotta pay..
 
If you don't have any luck finding an actual 340 block that is usable, you can use a 360 block to make a 340 cubic inch motor. You would need to buy main bearing spacers, use a 340 crank along with the spacers, bore it to 4.040 and buy a set of KB243 pistons. I'm pretty sure a member here built a 340 CI motor using that method several years back.
 
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