Initial timing at 50???

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Wrong plug wire. Do the transfer port sync so you can get control of your idle circuit screws. That build should be sweet with 30 initial and tweak down from there.
 
Have we taken what was presumed to be the #1 wire terminal on the distributor and hand cranked the distributor so far during "let me spin this while cranking, till it fires" so it's now actually the #2 or #8 terminal? Move the timing light clamp up and back a terminal...see what your light tells you. The distributor fires every 45 degrees. Your 50 off by 45 would be 5 initial. Which is actually probably not enough.
 
Oh my! V8 cylinders fire 90 degrees apart at the crank. I am sticking with post #22, or coil+, - are swapped so light triggers on start of dwell, not ignition strike. That also accounts for why timing only advances to 58. As the advance comes in with RPM, the dwell "pulls back", retarding the observed timing, but mechanical advance slightly wins.

We can all stop guessing by using a scope.
 
KitCarlson said:
Is the timing light clamp probe on the right way? There is a plug side, not all are marked. If wrong it, may trigger on start of dwell, not ignition, that would indicate advanced.
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I thought of that also and tried flipping it over. Still the same. Tried it with both timing lights.
 
Johnny Pace said:
Have we taken what was presumed to be the #1 wire terminal on the distributor and hand cranked the distributor so far during "let me spin this while cranking, till it fires" so it's now actually the #2 or #8 terminal? Move the timing light clamp up and back a terminal...see what your light tells you. The distributor fires every 45 degrees. Your 50 off by 45 would be 5 initial. Which is actually probably not enough.
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I will check this out today.
 
KitCarlson said:
Oh my! V8 cylinders fire 90 degrees apart at the crank. I am sticking with post #22, or coil+, - are swapped so light triggers on start of dwell, not ignition strike. That also accounts for why timing only advances to 58. As the advance comes in with RPM, the dwell "pulls back", retarding the observed timing, but mechanical advance slightly wins.

We can all stop guessing by using a scope.
Click to expand...
So you think I should swap + & - on coil? I never unhooked the coil wires when I swapped motors, coil is mounted on fire wall. What is the scope you are talking about? Sounds like an electrical instrument that is way over my head.
 
Baxter61 said:
what did you degree the cam to?
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Maybe I did it wrong but I used a degree wheel to verify that the valves were opening and closing at the correct position according to the spec card with the cam. Cam is installed at 106 intake centerline. Everything checked out ok unless I did something wrong. I am just an amateur.
 
Budgetmoparman said:
So you think I should swap + & - on coil? I never unhooked the coil wires when I swapped motors, coil is mounted on fire wall. What is the scope you are talking about? Sounds like an electrical instrument that is way over my head.
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You don't swap something if it is hooked up properly.

Scope is used to view and measure electrical signals in time. My adding a reference signal to crank, and also viewing the coil primary voltage timing can accurately be measured without a timing light.
 
KitCarlson said:
You don't swap something if it is hooked up properly.

Scope is used to view and measure electrical signals in time. My adding a reference signal to crank, and also viewing the coil primary voltage timing can accurately be measured without a timing light.
Click to expand...
When it comes to electrical stuff like that you will have to explain it to me in dummy terms because it all sounds greek to me. How do I do what you are saying to check timing without a timing light?
 
I went back to the beginning and checked everything. Made sure TDC was 0 on the balancer, set the balancer at 12*btdc and made sure the rotor was pointing at #1 on the cap. Fired it up and it ran a little rough. Warmed it up to operating temp and put a different timing light on it. I got it to idle at 28* at 900rpm. Checked mechanical advance and adjusted it to 38* because that is what it liked on the dyno, initial is at 34*. Could the springs in the distributor be too weak and the advance is coming in at idle? Vacuum at idle is still at 13. Tried hooking up the vacuum advance and it wouldn't even start.
 
Budgetmoparman said:
Why do you have to be that way? You can make sarcastic remarks to everyone else but as soon as someone makes one back, you take your ball and go home.
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I wasn't being any way sarcastic at all. I made a response similar to what someone else already posted and was saying nevermind.

I never once in this thread said anything sarcastic whatsoever. Not once. So, go have intercourse with yourself.
 
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When your timing was at 50 initial, did you check it with the other light to see if both lights showed the same number?
 
mopowers said:
When your timing was at 50 initial, did you check it with the other light to see if both lights showed the same number?
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I got a different timing light this morning and verified that the other 2 timing lights I had are reading the same.
 
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