DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Wrong plug wire. Do the transfer port sync so you can get control of your idle circuit screws. That build should be sweet with 30 initial and tweak down from there.
I thought of that also and tried flipping it over. Still the same. Tried it with both timing lights.Is the timing light clamp probe on the right way? There is a plug side, not all are marked. If wrong it, may trigger on start of dwell, not ignition, that would indicate advanced.
I degreed the cam. Every thing was correct.Did you degree the cam in or just "dot to dot" install?
I will check this out today.Have we taken what was presumed to be the #1 wire terminal on the distributor and hand cranked the distributor so far during "let me spin this while cranking, till it fires" so it's now actually the #2 or #8 terminal? Move the timing light clamp up and back a terminal...see what your light tells you. The distributor fires every 45 degrees. Your 50 off by 45 would be 5 initial. Which is actually probably not enough.
So you think I should swap + & - on coil? I never unhooked the coil wires when I swapped motors, coil is mounted on fire wall. What is the scope you are talking about? Sounds like an electrical instrument that is way over my head.Oh my! V8 cylinders fire 90 degrees apart at the crank. I am sticking with post #22, or coil+, - are swapped so light triggers on start of dwell, not ignition strike. That also accounts for why timing only advances to 58. As the advance comes in with RPM, the dwell "pulls back", retarding the observed timing, but mechanical advance slightly wins.
We can all stop guessing by using a scope.
I degreed the cam. Every thing was correct.
Maybe I did it wrong but I used a degree wheel to verify that the valves were opening and closing at the correct position according to the spec card with the cam. Cam is installed at 106 intake centerline. Everything checked out ok unless I did something wrong. I am just an amateur.what did you degree the cam to?
You don't swap something if it is hooked up properly.So you think I should swap + & - on coil? I never unhooked the coil wires when I swapped motors, coil is mounted on fire wall. What is the scope you are talking about? Sounds like an electrical instrument that is way over my head.
I haven't done a compression test yet, it is on my list to do. Vacuum is at 13-14 at idle and holds pretty steady.whats your cranking compression? and vacuum at idle? is the vacuum steady?
When it comes to electrical stuff like that you will have to explain it to me in dummy terms because it all sounds greek to me. How do I do what you are saying to check timing without a timing light?You don't swap something if it is hooked up properly.
Scope is used to view and measure electrical signals in time. My adding a reference signal to crank, and also viewing the coil primary voltage timing can accurately be measured without a timing light.
I used a piston stop and turned the motor by hand.How are you verifying that when the balancer reads TDC, the piston is at TDC?
Why do you have to be that way? You can make sarcastic remarks to everyone else but as soon as someone makes one back, you take your ball and go home.Nevermind, Beavis.
Why do you have to be that way? You can make sarcastic remarks to everyone else but as soon as someone makes one back, you take your ball and go home.
I used a piston stop and turned the motor by hand.
Yes sir. It came out to be correct.then marked it, turned it back the other direction and marked it again, then found the center point between the two marks?
I got a different timing light this morning and verified that the other 2 timing lights I had are reading the same.When your timing was at 50 initial, did you check it with the other light to see if both lights showed the same number?
This cannot all be ignition, some if it has to be fuel or other--------------