Im putting headers on my 318 in a 74 duster. Whats the best way to do it, they look identical to headman brand as far as routing goes. Is it easy enough to put them on from under the car or can I put them on the engine before I drop it in?
Installing Headers
- Thread starter cosworth
- Start date
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R4Sedan
Larry
What brand, I have TTI and they give you very good instructions that you must follow,Ie...shiming your engine if necessary you will probably have to raise your engine up a little to get d.s. on.
Not sure what brand they are no-names that came with the car when i bought it. The look like the hedmans on my dads car, so no instructions. Manual steering unit
Engines in the car right now but can pull it easy enough. Probably try with it like its sitting no trans on it so leaning down approx 2-3" in the rear.
Engines in the car right now but can pull it easy enough. Probably try with it like its sitting no trans on it so leaning down approx 2-3" in the rear.
If the engine is just setting in the mounts and you can pull it back out it would do that, set the headers in the car and drop the engine back in over them.
I have changed headers on a 74 Duster a few times with the engine and trans in place and it can be a PIA but i have found raise the engine up as far as you can, pull the oil filter adapter and torsion bars, pass side will come in from bottom and drives side from top.
I have changed headers on a 74 Duster a few times with the engine and trans in place and it can be a PIA but i have found raise the engine up as far as you can, pull the oil filter adapter and torsion bars, pass side will come in from bottom and drives side from top.
Bulldozer
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are they long tube headers. i have yet to see a pair that you have to remove the torsion bars
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
I think it's easier to pull the engine then drop the headers in. I just put a set in last month on my 340 4 speed car with the engine in and I invented a couple new curse words in the process.
Pulling the engine didnt help me, It appears that my passenger side header is where the torison bar is and will require a nice dent to fit. But it looks like I can get it if i lift the car up. Passender side will deff go in from under the car but will have to remove the steering box and possibly the steering col. Not a big deal as I wanted to pull and clean them up anyway.
R4Sedan
Larry
Again, remember your engine is suppose to sit offset I think it is 2" to PS and from center of crank bolt 5 1/4". You might have to use shims. I know I had too, just so everything would be to spec.
R4Sedan
Larry
Yeah, I'm sorry I forgot your working on a '74 disregard what I said, That is only for the bisquit type mounts.
I installed the cheapy Summit brand long tube headers in my 74 Sport with virtually no issues. The passenger side dropped right in. The driver side took the most time but I didn't have to remove anything to do it. I did have to make one small dent in the driver side tube to clear the steering.
I did have to unhook the centerlink. Forgot about that.
I did have to unhook the centerlink. Forgot about that.
Bulldozer
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i just put a set of hooker long tube headers on my 73 duster with a small block. with mine, the centerlink runs through the header. i will briefly run through it in case it will help you. first off, you cannot put them on the engine first and then install the engine. i did not have to disturb the steering box or column. with the engine in the car and still attached to the hoist, with the oil filter off, i first fed my passenger side up from the bottom and hung it on the studs with the gasket in place and started a couple bolts just to keep it there. next, with the motor mounts just above the K mount , move and brace the motor all the way to the passenger side. this will give you the room you need to feed the drivers side up to the studs and hang it, and at the same time, if you have a full size starter like i do, now is the time to feed it in there with the header. tighten it down and connect the wires. if your centerlink feeds through these, dont forget to knock it loose and out of the way., i used a pickle fork to seperate it from the pitman arm and tie rod. now you can work the engine on to its mounts, and then tighten everything up. mine were close, but i did not have to hammertune them and they fit like a glove.
Thanks for the info im going to try again this weekend when ill have more time. My dad has a 72 Duster Twister with similar headers the link doesnt look to feed through them. It almost looked like they go outside the torsion bar. They are cheap headers. cheep cheep!
Bulldozer
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i will say one thing in defense of cheap headers. my hooker super competition long tube cheap *** headers, dont leak, dont burn wires, i have easy access to all my plugs, they dont scrape, and the paint has yet to burn off in over a year of daily use. i have slant six torsion bars with 10 year old shocks. the summit headers are almost an exact copy of these, and in fact i have set of summits on the way to my house. patience is the key with long tube headers. make sure you get the car high enough in the air, i always feed the right side in first.
Yup, I was told don't buy cheap headers, they are nothing but trouble. Well when your name ain't Rockefeller you got to do what you got to do. I bought the cheap Summit ones, just over 100 bucks to my door. I have had zero problems, no leaks, no scraping, easy access to the plugs, no burnt wires here either.
As Lance said put the right side in first and hang it loose. Jack up the engine (board under oil pan) and push it toward the passenger side of the car to put the driver side in.
As Lance said put the right side in first and hang it loose. Jack up the engine (board under oil pan) and push it toward the passenger side of the car to put the driver side in.
I have the hedman style headers on my 74 Duster. Much easier if they are already in car before putting motor in. Plus the fact that you have to snake the steering center link through the driver side header. Headrers are nice but changing the starter went from a 45 min job to a 2 hour job. Mainly because you have to disconnect the inner tie rod and the steering box arm from the center drag link, then push the drag link out of the way and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and then turn the left front tire to the right. Thats just to be able to get the starter snaked out of that hole. Oh- def get a starter heat shield!!! Not really needed, but there is alot of heat going around that starter with headers. They are cheap enough and can prob make one yourself.
Mine is a 74 Duster 360/904 with power steering and front sway bar.
Mine is a 74 Duster 360/904 with power steering and front sway bar.
Really, I have a full size starter and I can snake it out without taking anything apart. I will agree though, it does take a little longer.
Bulldozer
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hopefully i wont be finding that out anytime soon lol, i put a brand new starter in when i put the headers on. BUT, when i put my starter in, the header was already in position but not tight, and i had room to feed it up there with the centerlink through the header.
I would suggest getting some heat wrap and put it around the motor part. I know the heat killed my other one.
One of these days I'm going with a mini starter.
Bulldozer
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the next one i buy will be a mini, but for now, its doing good. one of the benefits of having a big hole in the hood with a scoop lol. i really should crawl my lazy butt under there and wrap the header hehe
I just wrapped the starter motor to deflect the heat.
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
I just ripped off my hookers because they scraped, leaked,(even with percy gaskets) had to beat the hell out of them to clear anything in the engine bay. They were near impossible to put the bolts in the flanges due to the tubes. I've heard hooker had a bad batch make it through their quality department and it appeared I go a set of them.
Bulldozer
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wow, im glad i didnt get a set of those, i would have been pissed if i had to hammertune them to fit. mine went on with no problems at all, and they sealed up nicely. maybe your flanges were welded on at a bad angle. i would have sent them back beat to all hell with a nice thank you note lol
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
I have a 73 Dart Sport and it had a 318. The motor had to be lifted to get the old Hookers out, and I took them out the bottom. The torsion bars stayed in. I put in TTi headers with the new motor and had to lay them in and shoe horn everything into place. Lower a little, shift headers, lower a little, etc ....
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