Intake design for stock appearing class and needed a winter project

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I guess my memory was off just a bit.
This is it. Saw It On eBay. I should have bid, pretty cool intake. I ‘m not sure if it was the eBay ad but I’ve seen pics with the bottom cover off and runners exposed .
 
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furrystump said:
I can’t run a valve cover spacer. It would be nice I could. The rocker is close to the cover! Might have to make a taller cover some day.
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Fel Pro makes a double cork gasket that has a piece of perforated steel sandwiched in between. I'm thinking they are about 3/8" thick. If you need the P/N I think I have a set in the shop, just let me know and I'll check.
 
Thanks, If you have the number. They don’t hit, but long term plan I might need them.
 
I should have it running tonight. When I was pulling the old one off I heard a very faint pop. Looked over and saw two strands of the throttle cable broke. New one will be here wed. Better now than when I’m in Norwalk or Indy!

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Got it running for 1/2 a second and because I’m a moron and it was 19 degrees in the garage the rtv didn’t set over night so it started to pee out of the front corner. Pulled it off and put a heater in the garage. Second time was a charm. So shockingly enough, at least to me it idles and starts exactly like the old intake. Idles at the same AFR. Doesn’t smoke. So the carb had .116 front with a 6842 rod and .107 sec jet. Took it for a drive and running around on the primaries it was fine. Maybe a slight tip in slowness. Not really a bog, just a bit slower to respond. Give it the beans and it go holy crap lean. Ok, I had an idea that I would need to slow the air door done a bit from watching the carb on a dyno with another motor. I put a full turn tighter in the air door. Which brought the sec opening AFR down to 14.7 under WOT. Removed a bunch of the Edel bog. So then went from .107 jet to .119 in the sec. got it down to 13.7, then change front jet from .116 to .119 which got me to 13.3 ish. Finally did something I would think was crazy before sat, I left the sec jets on the bench. I also inserted a copper strand into the sec main emulsion air bleed. Which on sunday got me 12.9-13.0. It seems to pull a bit lazier through middle rpm, not a great surprise. It seems to pull harder over 6,000 rpm. Normally it needing all that jet tells me vacuum leak, but it responds to idle mixture screws and it doesn’t smoke. Idle also doesn’t change when I spritz the flange area with water. I feel comfortable running it at a tnt. The plugs are ok, no scary signs like aluminum. 2,6,8 look identical , number 4 rich.

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I think the meter is showing leaner than reality. It only has an hour on the o2 sensor, but to me those plugs don’t look 13.0
 
I think I cut the sec main emulsion bleed by about 1/3 with the copper strand. Might go to larger strand.
 
Right now I’m running a 1/4” thick four hole phenolic spacer. Was thinking of either rounding the rear edge of the bottom of each hole to direct more fuel towards the rear or maybe make 1” long extension tubes that I can cut notches in the bottom edge to steer fuel away from 4. Maybe angle cut the bottom of the tube
 
What does that motor usually like for a/f? Seems like you have to be pretty close. Good luck with it, hope it gets you something.
 
12.5, the meter is new from first of the year. Had another meter that was temp install thing a friend is using. Plus I wanted a permanent/clean installed one. Thinking about it I calibrated it on install in the garage. At like 70 degrees. I’m going to check it again at idle and recalibrate it. See how much it changes the idle reading from the original calibration.
 
Imo, the jetting is way close enough to where you’re ready for a trip to the chassis dyno to tune for best power.
 
Ok, went to Atco opening day. With the conditions on Sat. The car would normally run 11.8-11.9 at 115-116. So as I kind of expected it slowed down a bit. I knew it was probably going to make power higher and with the scat cast crank in it I really an hesitant to spin it really high. Also I know the cam is not doing it any favors. One seemingly unexpected thing was it launches exactly the same. The first run I was conservative not wanting to spin the tire which usually equates to 1.85 60’ which is what it did. It ran fine, the meter was showing 13.1-13.3, just seemed soft. Car #4

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Second run I put actual jets in the secondaries. .119’s it leaned it out .1 maybe? Was going to be more aggressive to see if it would behave badly/bog and I had to peddle it. Eyes wide open going in, so not expecting miracles. I pulled it off and plan to make a “turtle” mount for the bottom so I can try many different ramps/turtles etc.

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Thanks for the track report!!

Are you running 1.5 or 1.6 rockers?

Was the speed better or worse?
(Edit...... looks like worse)

Cranking compression numbers?

Anyone else there that you race with regularly to gauge how the track/weather conditions were?
 
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Did you read the plugs at the track? Any signs of uneven running? Congrats on getting it out!
 
Didn’t do a cranking compression test! DOH! I did notice something funny. It was NOT leaking water. It is off and on close inspection the four corners were definitely sealed. However there is surface rust over the entire interior surface of the new intake. After thinking about it, there is only very minimal metal to metal contact between the original casting and the new intake. Where the “new” intake flanges are inset is the only metal to metal contact. Every other area has about 1/8” of epoxy between the two pieces. Also the bottom is covered in epoxy. After running it to the point that the oil pressure came down to the normal 30 lbs at idle and it being at operating temp for a good bit. The new intake floor was only about 10-20 degrees above ambient temp? I think it would be hard pressed to get it over 100 degrees! I ask some B and R/B guys dry intake guys if they run metal gaskets which would help put some heat in the intake. Only 1 used a composite gasket, that might insulate the intake. I think whatever water vapor enters is condensing on the cool intake. The rust does not extend into the head port. I warmed the car up at the track like normal, until the oil pressure comes down as the oil heats.
 
It was still apart so I threw it back on and snugged it down. 200 lbs cranking pressure.
 
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