intake/exhaust mounting, what am I missing?

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I spoke with Halfafish (Zach) :thankyou: for about an hour on the subject matter above~ really helped a great deal~ a lot goes on with the slant sixes!


Couldn't resist :lol:~ not quite sure to do about the used valve cover~ still thinking either red or black krinkle with the fin tips exposed , black would go well;)
Darn, the days are going by so quickly

intake stuff.jpg
 
I'm sorry, it's a 7/16 bolt with a 5/8 head, this bolt does not go through the exhaust manifold.

intakem.jpg
 
Huh... Even at that, I'm thinking someone must have threaded it oversized because it either stripped or broke and was drilled out and rethreaded and no that won't hurt anything.
 
Yes, Zach and I had a discussion about it. That bolt does not go through the exhaust manifold, like it's made that way. I'm no way an authority on this;)
 
@Dne007, on that end exhaust manifold stud, you have the incorrect washer. What you should have is a brass washer with a bevel in it that the castled part of that nut goes into. The washer you have is one of the cupped washers and it's installed backwards anyway and also in the wrong spot. The correct place for it is in the center top intake stud and flipped around from how it is now.
 
Yes, Zach and I had a discussion about it. That bolt does not go through the exhaust manifold, like it's made that way. I'm no way an authority on this;)
Here you go. Here's a nice article showing you exactly where and how the hardware installs.
 
Thank you Rusty, any pictures of a complete intake setup installed? mainly the upper bolts, and end nuts

nevermind, just saw your link;)
 
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How cool is that :thumbsup: , that he's a member here! I also bought the stud kit~ may as well :usflag:

 
Now if he could just make an EgR block off plate that looks really cool!
 
That looks great Doc! :thumbsup: I was also wondering what the larger upper of the three bolts is for?
 
I really don’t know. My engine is a ‘65 so it never had an EGR. I upgraded to a two barrel carb, and the newer manifold had the EGR. Just made the plate myself to block it off. Pretty easy to do.
 
Chrysler made a egr block off plate for the slant six intake manifold.
It was a 2 hole plate used along with a egr gasket to replace the egr valve.
Block off plate part number was 3671447.
That number was discontinued by Chrysler many years ago.
The upper 3rd hole in the intake manifold was for a return spring attached to a metal strap.
It was often discarded when the intake manifold was removed from original engine.
It can be seen in the 4th photo from the top in this older thread.

 
Yes, Zach and I had a discussion about it. That bolt does not go through the exhaust manifold, like it's made that way. I'm no way an authority on this;)
Nope that isn't supposed to be all of the way thru.
I got my current 85 truck with the manifolds seperate from the engine and the PO had done just that, basically ruined the exhaust manifold.
 
are you missing your hot box gasket? fits between intake and exhaust at the heat transfer box
some of them also have a metal shim to direct the heat and facilitate the use of a flap that moved by a heat sensitive coil spring to basically switch the heat transfer box off and on, and you use 2 gaskets and the shim....but maybe that's just australia

either way there is usually gasket material between the inlet and exhaust at the hot box section


HP Premium Graphite Manifold Hot Box Gasket : suit Slant 6
 
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I plan to make the same job than Dne007 but I have some interrogations about this tricky exhaust/intake manifolds installation.

I have the two brass washers and the 8 triangular ones but what do the three conical washers look like?
Montage.jpg

:thankyou:
François
 
"Note that"later" SL6 engines came with only one round conical washer in the top center position.

I'm almost afraid to say anything, but the conical washer goes directly in the middle on the intake manifold.

conical washer.jpg
 
Hi Dne
Yes, I know this subtility for the old (with 3 conical washers) and the newer manifold (with only one)., but I don't know what these washers look like.
Now on your picture I see the conical washer. Thank you.
But I think that you don't use the correct nut. There, I think that you must use a classical nut, not this creneled one which goes to the far outer left and right studs and the brass washers. But I can be wrong....
 
Yeah, I was wondering about that nut i have on there, at least it's easy to get to if it's not correct. As for the conical washer~ the engineers back then came up with the darndest ideas! lol
 
so, just a regular nut? seems like it would back off, but then seems like they would all back off without a lock washer.
 
so, just a regular nut? seems like it would back off, but then seems like they would all back off without a lock washer.
Correct. Just a standard fine thread nut. It won't back off. That conical washer acts as a "spring" and compresses slightly when the nut is torqued. That, plus the slight stretch of the stud keeps the nut tight. None of them need lock washers.
 
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