Intake manifold options for a Magnum 5.9/360
- Thread starter Kern Dog
- Start date
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junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
i don't think that would even work, it's not a "wet" manifold. so i'm guessing that even if you could get it going, i'm sure it would run spectacularly awful.
RBConvert
Well-Known Member
Thank you very much. No doubt the 380/360 is a fantastic motor. But as Greg mentioned, it is soft below ~2,000 rpm. The tight 107° lsa makes for a lopey idle and is the main reason the Dart has manual brakes. BTW, it's a 4.10 SG out back.
For what Greg is looking for, a smaller cam with a wider lsa, dual plane intake and 650 cfm carb will do him justice.
Me, I'm going the opposite direction. Starting to build a 408 stroker, TF heads, Hughes hyd roller cam, Airgap RPM, etc.
I'm going to copy and save that picture.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
excellent... now i know what mine would look like with black steelies... hmmm... *strokes chin*
Another option for a later motor
Engine Quest CH 318 A heads cast for 318 /360 magnum
With LA intake bolt pattern that flow 217 CFM @ .500 lift, very reasonably priced
Engine Quest CH 318 A heads cast for 318 /360 magnum
With LA intake bolt pattern that flow 217 CFM @ .500 lift, very reasonably priced
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I've bought 2 Sets and my son bought a 3rd . I don't know if I will again. The last set definitely cost me an engine.
The first time I bought bare ones about 2008 and stuffed them with reground valves out of cracked original heads. Worked out great.
About 5 years later my son bought a set of "ready to run" heads for an engine that he rebuilt. It ended up an oil burner and 6k later he pulled it apart again and sent those heads thru the machine shop, they did have to do some work on those, don't remember what but it was basic valve job work not porting or such.
Work that I wouldn't expect on a set of brand new heads in service for such a short time. These are on a ramcharger.
Then in 2016 I bought a set of "ready to run out of the box" (they weren't)! That had way too tight stem to guide clearance.
I had exhaust valves hang open and kiss pistons,
When I took those to the machine shop they told me they had to hammer out the valves even many of the intakes. They said that they've had heads off of engines that sat uncovered in a field for 30 years that they didn't have to work so hard to get the valves out of. So I ain't so sure I'm gonna be in much of a hurry to run out and buy another set of EQs...
The first time I bought bare ones about 2008 and stuffed them with reground valves out of cracked original heads. Worked out great.
About 5 years later my son bought a set of "ready to run" heads for an engine that he rebuilt. It ended up an oil burner and 6k later he pulled it apart again and sent those heads thru the machine shop, they did have to do some work on those, don't remember what but it was basic valve job work not porting or such.
Work that I wouldn't expect on a set of brand new heads in service for such a short time. These are on a ramcharger.
Then in 2016 I bought a set of "ready to run out of the box" (they weren't)! That had way too tight stem to guide clearance.
I had exhaust valves hang open and kiss pistons,
When I took those to the machine shop they told me they had to hammer out the valves even many of the intakes. They said that they've had heads off of engines that sat uncovered in a field for 30 years that they didn't have to work so hard to get the valves out of. So I ain't so sure I'm gonna be in much of a hurry to run out and buy another set of EQs...
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
After the heads up video by @318willrun , I don't think I'd even bolt a Trick Flow head on without checking it!
Well after spending that much on brand new parts there's no reason you should have to spend even more to make them usable. With as many people say it ain't worth redoing original parts "by the time you spend the money on rebuilding original ones you're not far from the price of just buying new". Well when you gotta spend MORE money doing your own QC work at best and reworking these brand new parts costing even more you might as well rebuild those original parts ... I know I was beyond irate about having to pay again to send those brand new heads thru the machine shop like I would a set with over 100k miles on them, but add in the fact it cost me a fresh short block besides, I hope they are run out of business.
dbc105
New Member
Check out this guy, I bought an Edelbrock LA Speadbore Performer used to put on mine and this is how I'm going to do it:
HankRearden
Well-Known Member
yes it does if you dont have ac. Run a dorman bypass pulley and cut an ear off of it.
Ive used two so far.
4mulas
Fixem'up
I’d like to tell you it’s a super secret prototype intake offered by mopar for a one week period in 2001 where only 7 were made but I can’t….
It’s a typo! Supposed to be m1
4mulas
Fixem'up
Wish I had unlimited access to old rust free cool cars like this one! It’s intended use in your ownership Sounds like A lot of fun
RBConvert
Well-Known Member
I like the look. The rims are powder coated satin black.
Fat fingered reply button miss that should have read M1.
4mulas
Fixem'up
It did read M1. I just edited it that’s all. It was a good catch on your part.
Maybe they should have made an M2, a high rise dual plane hence the ‘2’ for ‘dual’ plane. Haha
But I WANT AC. A bypass pulley won't get me there
HankRearden
Well-Known Member
ive been intending to investigate moving a ram ac compressor or using a smaller compressor but that is way down on my list.
I think that was a problem with the MoPar parts. The dual plane was just an aluminum copy of an earlier ‘70 340 intake.
So that is a non ac setup. My post said it will not work with the magnum ac serpentine set up. In other words with AC.
Being that I want to run a carburetor which is why I'm looking for something besides a kegger in the first place, which means running a mechanical fuel pump, which means that having to use the LA front of the engine, I'm hoping I can run the 80s brackets and compressor.
How about running an aftermarket bracket setup like maybe bouchillon?
How about running an aftermarket bracket setup like maybe bouchillon?
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
If you run an LA timing cover for a mechanical fuel pump, you can simply build out the rest using LA parts for the water pump, brackets, pulleys, and A/C compressor. That one works easy.
For anyone running an electric fuel pump and wanting the Magnum serpentine setup the easiest way is with a real Edelbrock RPM Magnum intake or a used M1 Magnum intake. I was looking into a 91 Dakota one year only serpentine setup that was used on LA 318 engines right before they got the Magnum engines but the compressor itself is not available. Check out this thread starting around post 58 for pictures of that bracket: Crosswind air gap clone and ram truck serpentine setup . That one would clear an LA intake or Chinese dual pattern intake if I could figure out where to get a compressor.
The other way is to build out the front of the engine as an LA setup and compressor, then use a conversion serpentine setup like CVF offers.
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