is it legal?

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j par

j par

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NHRA legal. I'm probably never going to get below 11. 5 with the motor i have.
so I won't need a roll cage. But I need to lose weight! To get closer.
I noticed when I had a door off they were extremely heavy. I can get a set of doors
for $80. (Don't want to hack my good ones)plan-A : put doors on and hack them to
Death! Maybe just enough to use the hinges and latch (maybe? ) plexiglass/lexan
good for arrow dynamic, not wallet:violent1: is a window net legal? I think the weight
Loss would help more than arrow dynamics. pros, cons, is it legal?
 
buy the doors and hack the pee out of them. just leave enough to operate the door latch. put lexan in for the windows. with out a roll cage there will be nothing to mount the window net to.
 
If you replace the windsheild with a cheap replacement they are 10-15 pounds lighter , at least the 70 Challenger windshield is so the Dart must be as well . Don't see why you can't get to low 11's with a 318 .
 
bOb shingler said:
buy the doors and hack the pee out of them. just leave enough to operate the door latch. put lexan in for the windows. with out a roll cage there will be nothing to mount the window net to.
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Got some plexiglass. Get doors Tuesday. I really want to gut the doors down to hinges, door skin, and latch.
I have some light weight material to make a window frame. I'm going as light as possible here, so I don't want
any window tracks. All away up for race or all away down for cruise is fine. Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you. ....

p.s. i hope this all sounds legal above 11.5 ?
 
Took the Beams out of the Cuda doors, when I built it. One person could easily handle the doors after that. Friend used a plasma cutter and wet cardboard to remove the beam and not damage the door skin.
 
When in doubt go to NHRA and consult the rule book in racing 101

WINDSHIELD, WINDOWS
Altereds, dragsters: Optional. Windscreen mandatory. See General Regulations 7:7, 7:8.

Stock-bodied vehicles: Mandatory, must be in good condition and free from cracks. May be replaced with shatterproof material, 1/8-inch-minimum thickness. OEM windshield may not be cut for scoops, carb, etc. Windshield/window tint must meet the applicable state requirements. Windows must be closed during races, need not be operable. Decals permitted on rear quarter and rear window only. See General Regulations 7:8. Regulations 6:2.

WINDOW NET
A ribbon-type or SFI 27.1 mesh-type window net is mandatory for any full-bodied car running 7.50 (*4.50) to 9.99 (*6.39) or if vehicle runs 135 mph or faster. See General Regulations 6:3.
 
Hemioutlaw said:
When in doubt go to NHRA and consult the rule book in racing 101

WINDSHIELD, WINDOWS
Altereds, dragsters: Optional. Windscreen mandatory. See General Regulations 7:7, 7:8.

Stock-bodied vehicles: Mandatory, must be in good condition and free from cracks. May be replaced with shatterproof material, 1/8-inch-minimum thickness. OEM windshield may not be cut for scoops, carb, etc. Windshield/window tint must meet the applicable state requirements. Windows must be closed during races, need not be operable. Decals permitted on rear quarter and rear window only. See General Regulations 7:8. Regulations 6:2.

WINDOW NET
A ribbon-type or SFI 27.1 mesh-type window net is mandatory for any full-bodied car running 7.50 (*4.50) to 9.99 (*6.39) or if vehicle runs 135 mph or faster. See General Regulations 6:3.
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thank you I was looking in the rule book yesterday and I was having a hard time finding that little part. Again thank you
 
MidTexCuda said:
do not run Plexiglass. It is an acrylic based product and will break. Take the plexi back and get lexan.
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bought a piece on Craigslist from a guy for $20. big enough to do both side windows and back quarters. At that price I think I may just give it a try. The local lexan dealer $4.00 a square foot.
 
j par said:
bought a piece on Craigslist from a guy for $20. big enough to do both side windows and back quarters. At that price I think I may just give it a try. The local lexan dealer $4.00 a square foot.
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There is a reason for the Lexan -------- It's your safety !!!

God forbid anything were to happen and generally it doesn't, you stated your only running 11:50's but hit some oil or water on the big end or lose a motor, trans or rear or have a suspension component fail and it will be all over but the crying. Your life Your money but Safety isn't a good place to sacrifice $$$.

I have witnessed too many bad crashes and they weren't all blown nitro burning vehicles.

Just my two cents

PEACE !!!
 
Man, I don't know if I would butcher the car down to nothing. You should easily be able to get the A-body down to about 3000 lbs by making sure there are zero options (manual steering, manual breaks), IF your car is a '74 or newer, it has reinforcements behind both bumpers that can be cut out. You can easily have a nice street car that weighs 3000-3100 pounds without butchering doors, glass, etc. If you can't get into the 11's with a 3100 lb car, then you need more motor. Focus on dialing in your 318 to perform. At 14.20's, you are nowhere near reaching the motors capability. I know a guy that got a 4100 lb truck into the mid 13's with a 318. Yes, a full size, long bed, 4100 lbs of steel, pickup cutt'n all the wind plus weight. But, your project, do as you please. I would just keep it street friendly.
 
318willrun said:
Man, I don't know if I would butcher the car down to nothing. You should easily be able to get the A-body down to about 3000 lbs by making sure there are zero options (manual steering, manual breaks), IF your car is a '74 or newer, it has reinforcements behind both bumpers that can be cut out. You can easily have a nice street car that weighs 3000-3100 pounds without butchering doors, glass, etc. If you can't get into the 11's with a 3100 lb car, then you need more motor. Focus on dialing in your 318 to perform. At 14.20's, you are nowhere near reaching the motors capability. I know a guy that got a 4100 lb truck into the mid 13's with a 318. Yes, a full size, long bed, 4100 lbs of steel, pickup cutt'n all the wind plus weight. But, your project, do as you please. I would just keep it street friendly.
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not to worry I am buying extra doors to butcher up and I'm making sure that anything that I do, I can put back to stock because I'm assuming one day that it will. the car already has no bumpers I do have a fiberglass rear bumper to go on. I plan on making some frames for the plexiglass that I'm going to use and as far as safety I will be held in by the seatbelt and have a helmet on in case anything shatters. I'm just trying to help the little 318 out by not giving it so much to push down the track making the tuning easier I would think. But please rest assure I'm not going to do anything to the car that I can easily reverse or have spare parts for. I appreciate your comments and everybody else's concerns.:)
 
j par said:
not to worry I am buying extra doors to butcher up and I'm making sure that anything that I do, I can put back to stock because I'm assuming one day that it will. the car already has no bumpers I do have a fiberglass rear bumper to go on. I plan on making some frames for the plexiglass that I'm going to use and as far as safety I will be held in by the seatbelt and have a helmet on in case anything shatters. I'm just trying to help the little 318 out by not giving it so much to push down the track making the tuning easier I would think. But please rest assure I'm not going to do anything to the car that I can easily reverse or have spare parts for. I appreciate your comments and everybody else's concerns.:)
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Loss of weight helps the E.T., but you are selling the 318 short. I was just meaning it can get there with out all the weight shed. I mean, you could put the 318 on a dragster, but kind of defeats the purpose of your project, right? Nobody is going to get too excited if ya hit 11's with a 318 in a 2200 lb car.... lol.
 
318willrun said:
Loss of weight helps the E.T., but you are selling the 318 short. I was just meaning it can get there with out all the weight shed. I mean, you could put the 318 on a dragster, but kind of defeats the purpose of your project, right? Nobody is going to get too excited if ya hit 11's with a 318 in a 2200 lb car.... lol.
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Score board or time slip only shows ET and Speed...does not show size of engine or weight of car....

let your conscience be your guide...LOL
 
On my way home with the doors! :) (girlfriend driving#-o) i think I'll keep these #1 great condition, #2 remote ajusting mirror (driver side), #3 there are brown (the car is green).the car is not going to be painted until it goes back to stock. So no sense having brown doors on my green car for the next few years. I have some light weight material to make frames for the plexiglass. Wish me luck! ! (NOT with the project, remember girlfriend driving! :D)
 
by the way has anybody taken reinforcement beams out before? And what did you have to go through to get him out? thank you
 
j par said:
by the way has anybody taken reinforcement beams out before? And what did you have to go through to get him out? thank you
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I should stay out of this, but........

do we even know what you are working on?

Can't you buy earlier doors? When did they go in, 73?
 
From what i read ...74 was the 1st year for door beams..
 
67Dart273 said:
I . ould stay out of this, but........

do we even know what you are working on?

Can't you buy earlier doors? When did they go in, 73?
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73 duster , please ad to if you got anything.
I'm sure it will have the beams, 73 is when everything got heavy.
I know the doors i picked up today have them.
 
70aarcuda said:
well..re read...apparently under the scamp part of the article..the beams came in 73....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plymouth_Valiant
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Great link! Thank you:)

now I need to go back to the original question has anybody tried to take these things out of the doors without doing exterior damage? And if so how did things turn out?
And anything to look out for?
Thank you
 
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