Is it safe to use the driveshaft from a slant 6 904, on a v8 360 904?

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myasylum said:
See now, that kind of hangs me up. No I don't do alot of racing, but I do like to smoke the tires and beat on it a bit. I mean the stock slant six is what 110 hp, now I'm dealing with about 400 plus, that seems like a lot more then that shaft has has to endure. So I guess thats what I worry about. If you guys think it should be safe I'll go with it, and just get new U joints. It would be much cheaper admittedly.
Thanks!
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Burnouts aren't going to be an issue.... UNless you are planning on doing burnouts into 3rd gear and hitting more than 6000rpm...

Change the joints, the joints in there may have been in there and have some wear..

If you aren't going to fly down the highway and try and hold it near your max rpm you'll be ok


pettybludart said:
I ran 7260/7290 crossover u-joints in my race car running over 100 passes at 11.00-10.80@123mph,never had 1 problem with u-joints.Was I just lucky??
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Playing with fire, seems in my experience that your better off with a square side joint than 2 opposing in performance apps, i have seen the few like you, but have seen the many that always warns that its a few. .



myasylum said:
Can you replace u joints yourself? Or is that something you should take to a professional shop? Also of If have 1.078 cap diameter is there a u joint you suggest?
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If you're feeling nervous and or not understanding then let someone do it that knows, not a friend that read about it online...
It is VERY easy to F it all up and need a new weld yoke or a new tube..


70aarcuda said:
well..here is one from experience....drive shaft ripped apart...conversion u joint still attached to rear end yoke...

the u joint get my vote to be stronger then the driveshaft...and look it has a grease fitting too.

happend a month ago at MATS..in 71 Demon 360
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That has the evidence of a weld failure or a 2 part issue of weld and assembly of the weld yoke to the tube, and the china joint is in backwards, grease fitting to the shaft.



.
 
Want to build a loop, start here....

http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8241-round-pipe.aspx

You can build something like this if you have connectors.
4635643-Aug-08014.jpg
 
moog, precision, neapco/brute force/lakewood, napa, autozone, riellys, bickel, fed-mogul and there associates and a few more...

Only good choices are rockwell-meritor and spicer, of which spicer has a plant they shifted the crosses to in china on some series, but its there plant...heat treating, caps and needles are all done here.
They aren't using the china copy plants all the others are
 
If the 8 3/4 measured at 1.078 would it still get the large conversion or stick with the small joint all the way around?
Thanks.
 
you're measuring the cap diameter which that is the 7260 series or the smaller joint.

If you aren't more than 700 ft lbs you're alright on the small
 
There has to be a weakest link in the drive train. Drive shaft would be the least expensive to replace.
 
What do you mean.... If your not more then 700 ft pounds? Oh, you mean torque? I'd say about 500? Otherwise would I be better off looking for a different yoke for the rear end to fit the large u joint?
 
If you would like to make us some, that sure would be swell! :)
However your in Canada... Shipping cost are terrible.
 
RedFish said:
There has to be a weakest link in the drive train. Drive shaft would be the least expensive to replace.
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If you ever get lucky to have a shaft break when racing...


YOU will never have that thought again, after it cuts the car in half and almost kills you, you'll never ever look at it that way again.

The last thing it will ever be is cheap
 
myasylum said:
What do you mean.... If your not more then 700 ft pounds? Oh, you mean torque? I'd say about 500? Otherwise would I be better off looking for a different yoke for the rear end to fit the large u joint?
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If you're worried about the small joint, use a spicer spl version that will exceed 700 ft lbs
 
When I install the u-joints (Im getting the spicer) Is there a certain direction the grease fittings should point too? is it just a matter of easiest location to get at?

I actually found SPL's cheaper then the 7260s. hmm?? and they have no grease fittings?

http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-5-788X.html

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/spic72uj.html

Huh? found this one too... Grease fitting in the cap->
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p465_7260_series_spicer_u_joint....grease_fitting_in_cap.html

Thanks!!
 
I did the same, took my /6 drive shaft to a machine shop that specialized in shafts. The tech said it was worth 400+ HP.
 
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