Is it smart???

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turbo66valiant said:
Well, I jotted down some #'s of my build. Alot of the stuff I had used sitting around so it didn't cost anything. A few parts I traded or some gave to the cause. As you can see the engine was low budget in deed. Even the rings were used from a diff motor.

Block - 1972 Hesston Swather 225ci - $100 (bought three that day for $100)
Head - Don't know the year but used - $0.00
Crank - stock Forged (never been out of block) - $0.00
Rods - stock - $0.00
Pistons - TRW Forged std bore (used from another motor) - $0.00
Rings - Moly (used from another motor) - $0.00
Rods Bearings - Used from another motor - $0.00
Main Bearings - never been out of the Hesston block - $0.00
Oil pump - Stock original Hesston - $0.00
Valves - 1.70 / 1.44 Ebay - $85.00
Springs - Used dual from SB - $0.00
Balancer - Stock Hesston $0.00
Head Gasket - Copper Hussey - $80.00
Head Studs - ARP Custom - $220.00
Main Studs - ARP - $85.00
Rods Bolts - ARP - $55.00
Cam - Erson .465 lift w/ lifters - $130.00
Timing Chain - Rollmaster - $110.00
Dist Gear - New - $6.00
Dist - used from 80's computer controlled D150 - $0.00
Wires - MSD Custom set - $100.00
Water Pump - New Car Quest - $28.00
Chrome Valve cover - Used Ebay - $20.00
Gasket Set - Felpro - $45.00
Intake Gasket - New - $12.00
Intake - Clifford Hyper Pac - $325.00
Header - Cut apart used set of SB and welded by me - $0.00
Everything else is bone stock and came with the motor - $0.00
Machine work on Head - $250 - ported by me
Machine work on Block - $0.00 - honed and cleaned by me
Trans - used 727 from truck - $0.00
Trans kit - $125.00
Trans rebuild - paid a friend to rebuild it - $50.00
Converter - Used - $0.00

Everything else would be something that would fit a small block and a slant so I didn't jot them down. Like fuel system and such.

Everything listed is $1826.00 and this is to get your Slant into the 10's. This is also running a 100% stock oiling system and a non filled block. Motor has been together for 3 seasons and many street floggings (and knocking) trying to get the A/f ratio correct.

Could have been done even cheaper if you get a used intake, valves, stock valve cover and wires. You also wouldn't need the ARP stuff if you were going to just run in the 12's.

Hope this helps the cause Bill and hope you are feeling better. Later
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You mentioned everything but the turbo! What size? model number? Ready to pull the trigger after I bought 2 snails off Craigs and found they were 1.8L leaf blowers! Anyone got a Champ they want to turbo???
 
pishta said:
You mentioned everything but the turbo! What size? model number? Ready to pull the trigger after I bought 2 snails off Craigs and found they were 1.8L leaf blowers! Anyone got a Champ they want to turbo???
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just put one on your lawn mower,you'd be kick'n some grass then :shock::shock: :headbang:
 
Turbo is a Garret T70 - .58 hot side - Stage 5 wheel - big shaft - P trim. Purchased from G-pop shop. With the new 4 inch exhaust I can spool it at any rpm and hold it.

Bill, what tires you have? 2.76 rear works fine for me right now. I even run the 741 case w/ the small u-joint. 26" tall MT's
Later
 
turbo66valiant said:
Bill, what tires you have? 2.76 rear works fine for me right now. I even run the 741 case w/ the small u-joint. 26" tall MT's
Later
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Ryan,

I bought a pair of Hoosier bias-ply 9" wide drag slicks, 26" tall and have them installed on a pair of steel wheels that are 8" wide, with (custom) 5-1/2" back spacing. We had to roll the fender lip flat to keep the from rubbing, and we haven't got the engine running yet, so I can't say how they work.

But, that was the widest tire I could fit in the fender well.

I have a friend who, up until recently, raced a '69 Camaro 425HP/427 TurboHydro-equipped A/SA car in NHRA's stock Eliminator. His car had about the same HP/LB that your car does because it (like your car) ran pretty consistent 127-MPH trap speed.

But that car hooked amazingly well, and with a 6,000-RPM stall speed, would run 10.19 ET's with consistency.

He's limited to a 9" tire by the rules, but his were 29" tall.

Our car is going to be almost a thousand pounds lighter than his, with the same width tire. Is there any reason why it shouldn't 60-foot as well as his??? (1.31-seconds was his usual.)

What do you think? This was a pure race car, of course; never on the street.
 

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That's a 69 Camaro. Looks like it'll move.
 
StrokerScamp said:
That's a 69 Camaro. Looks like it'll move.
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You are 100-percent keyrect; '69... dunno what I was thinking... Ran 10.19 @ 128mph constently with 1.31 60-foot times in A Stock Automatic with a 350 TurboHydro, and a 5.14:1 rear end gear on 29" tall, 9"-wide Hoosier radials.
 
Yes it's nice to see no jerks jumping all over this thread and ruining it for Bill.
 
Now I have a question about pistons. If you are going turbo or supercharger don't you need to change the piston type to forged to handle the pressure?
I don't see how a stock /6 will last long under pressure.
 
No, a cast piston will live just fine with a turbo. All you have to do with a cast piston is make damn SURE it does not run lean. That's where the trouble starts. Is it a good idea to go forged? Sure. If you're doin a ground up build and wanna plan for forged, fine, but they are not necessary.
 
Hey Rob;not to disagree with you but I was warned not to use cast or hyper pistons with a turbo by an engine builder. He felt that any kind of detonation would break the piston and cause it to shatter. Even though I would be using a max of 10 psi. Didnt many many factory motors come from chrysler with turbo's and cast pistons? I even think they had a 70 000 mile warrantee.

My plan was/is to build a mild 451 that makes about 550 h.p,which is childsplay yes. Then I was going to use mild boost to make another 150 h.p or so instead of nos.

So maybe the hyper would be too brittle in this situation? I think I'll contact KB and ask them what they think as well.
 
needsaresto said:
Hey Rob;not to disagree with you but I was warned not to use cast or hyper pistons with a turbo by an engine builder. He felt that any kind of detonation would break the piston and cause it to shatter. Even though I would be using a max of 10 psi. Didnt many many factory motors come from chrysler with turbo's and cast pistons? I even think they had a 70 000 mile warrantee.

My plan was/is to build a mild 451 that makes about 550 h.p,which is childsplay yes. Then I was going to use mild boost to make another 150 h.p or so instead of nos.

So maybe the hyper would be too brittle in this situation? I think I'll contact KB and ask them what they think as well.
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Slant 6 cast pistons have a very thick dome. They can handle boost very well and at 10PSI like a charm. Like any piston, don't detonate them.
 
Ahhh see the thick dome makes sense. I have a set of KB280's which have a very thick dome as well. The idea of the thick dome is to machine it for proper quench,so instead I was thinking machine it for a turbo app,but leave it plenty thick. If necessary adjust the comp down with thick head gaskets and,tada! Turbo pistons on the cheap.

Can you tell me exactly how thick of a piston top we're talking about?
 
Bill Dedman said:
Well, I appreciate all the cooperation from everybody; this is supposed to be FUN....

Are we havin' fun yet???

I am!!!:)
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Glad to see it going so well. I have been wanting to learn about turbocharging.
 
old tired rebel said:
Glad to see it going so well. I have been wanting to learn about turbocharging.
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Welcome, Cliff. This is a pretty good place to learn. but not from me. I am a rank newbie; I have listened to the experienced racers here (there are several) and learned a few things, though.

I'm gettin' there...... :)
 
Bill Dedman said:
Welcome, Cliff. This is a pretty good place to learn. but not from me. I am a rank newbie; I have listened to the experienced racers here (there are several) and learned a few things, though.

I'm gettin' there...... :)
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No reason we can't learn together. I love this site.
 
Bill Dedman said:
Well, I appreciate all the cooperation from everybody; this is supposed to be FUN....

Are we havin' fun yet???

I am!!!:)
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i sure as hell am, this thread has really piqued my interest.
 
I have an aluminum block in my Valiant but some of these guys have me scared I'm going to blow it up if I get on it. I baby my car but would love to try the turbo boost thing. How to start and where to get the goods is my concern.
 
This is the info i needed ....im bulding a turbo 69 dart ...my wife has a 350hp awd subaru wrx and that thing made me fall in love with a turbo .....now my dart has to step it up....i wish I had more mopar fans in my area ...
 
mitch67 said:
I have an aluminum block in my Valiant but some of these guys have me scared I'm going to blow it up if I get on it. I baby my car but would love to try the turbo boost thing. How to start and where to get the goods is my concern.
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It's completely possible you could run into trouble. Since the aluminum blocks have an open deck face they have no support at the top of the cylinders plus they don't have a lot of head gasket sealing surface so as a result, they cannot stand a lot of cylinder pressure.
 
Bill Dedman said:
Welcome, Cliff. This is a pretty good place to learn. but not from me. I am a rank newbie; I have listened to the experienced racers here (there are several) and learned a few things, though.

I'm gettin' there...... :)
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For a rank newbie,you sure do have a sexy exhaust manifold !!! I've been enjoying Bills threads,as the contiue to drive me nuckin futs as to which way to go with my 6 !!! This will be my 3rd /6,and I've enjoyed the hell out of the other two !!! But now I'm torn between what I know works and had a blast with,or as I always proclaim "Dare to be Different",and the Turbo certainly fits that bill !!Damn I hate to have to make decisions !!!:blob:
 
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