is it worth the effort? (cam)

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halifaxhops said:
Read it fast 4 degrees at 2200 is easy to do. All in at 50 is doable with a combination of mechanical and vac. Seriously doubt you can get 46 from just a vac advance. If you do let me know how sure it is interesting, never saw one more than 24 at the crank.
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This is what I meant to say. All in at 50 with a combination of mechanical and vac.
 
I'm going with a Summit distributor (same as the Mancini Firecore) because i'm done dealing with factory-style distributors, they're just such a huge pain to get dialed in exactly the way you want unless you remove, reinstall and test 5+ times. Multiple times I welded up the advance plate slots and filed them to a gap that some published table said corresponded with a certain amount of mechanical advance; well of course it was wrong and I ended up doing the trial-and-error game again. No more lol.
 
That's exactly why I got a distrib machine for then word of mouth got out there and busy as hell now. So much for retirement, does keep the beer fridge full though. I Think the proform in the picture is just like the older MP. Ask them for curve specs first to see if it will work for you. A lot of them just slam full open mechanical.
 
Photo-26-650x433.jpg
older MP

dizzysprings-jpg.jpg

Newer adjustable MP.
 
Wyrmrider said:
going to a longer duration usually gives you a higher rpm band and may give more HP
you loose low end torque
which means to get that or more torque back for launch and after shifts you have to run a looser converter and a lower gear or shorter tire
have you done everything with the existing combination-- ignition curve, carb tune, chassis etc??
360 magnum what year and compression
has it ever been rebuilt?
what's your cranking compression with the carb open?
if yo do still have a good working high (er) compression early 360 motor or the late lower compression one- makes a difference
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I did a little search and this cam has come up before, and it was stated that, "that 230 cam will need 10 or 10.5 compression to get rid of the soggy bottom end."
Maybe I missed it, but what"s your compression ratio or cranking compression ?
And what initial are you running ?
 
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My 3690430 number is at least 15 years old, and it's off the original box for my distributor it's the newer one halifaxhops shows, with the adjustable mechanical advance.
 
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I have a bunch of the older MP small blocks, none of the newer they sold out fast. Not worth $75 to buy them as cores to me. They are really cool to work on IMO.
 
Mallory is the way to go then, also buy the keys to adjust it with a spring kit if you can find them, usually around 75 or so.
 
You can't tell who made 'em from the p/n.
I don't like the Mallory, but you can make them work OK.
Fine for a street car, not so great for 1/4 mile car.
 
mderoy340 said:
I would tune what you have first before spending more $$$.
Your 60' is off by 1.5 tenths. You should be able to run a 1.65-1.67
I would start with ignition curve first and then dial in carb second. My 300hp magnum with home ported heads, [email protected] .495 lift ran a best of 11.86. Same gear, tire, etc as your car.
This is what I've found that works on a low 12 high 11 second pump gas SBM in the [email protected] cam range street/strip setup for ignition and 750dp carb.
Ignition: 29*-30* initial @ 1000 rpm in neutral. 4* mechanical advance all in at launch rpm. I launch my car at 2100 and my TA 10" s800 tight converter flashes to 3200 instantly. High initial timing helps off idle transition and throttle response. Vacuum advance is ported and starts to move at 6", max 50* mechanical and vacuum combined. Many will say this is to much timing but it works. You need to be conservative with vacuum advance coming in until you know the fuel curve is good. I use ported vacuum with my 750 proform. I also use ported so it does not affect my launch rpm timing.
Carb: 750 Proform DP, This is the setup I changed from stock. Carb was lean off idle and lean at WOT upper rpm.
Center the main body throttle bore to base plate alignment. Also set transition slot up front and close the secondary as much as possible without touching.
Specs I run and should work for you:
Airgap with center divider upper edge rounded, 1/4" holley open fiber gasket, 1" HVH 4 hole Super Sucker, PCV connected to rear inlet.
IFR .035 moved to bottom
IAB .070
All 4 idle screws 1 turn.
71/85 main jet
MAB .026
Primary PV 9.5, PVCR .059, Rear PV plugged.
4 hole emulsion metering block .028, plug, .028, plug top to bottom.
Pump shot primary Green cam #2 hole .033
Pump shot rear Orange cam #1 hole .031
Suspension:
Mancini Racing SS spring knockoff, Adjustable snubber set 1/4" from floor at the track, 90-10 front, 50-50 rear, 26" 235/60/15 MT ET Street drag radial 20 psi cold. Launch 2100, shift 6200, trap @ 112mph 6300rpm.
Hope this info helps you out. Make one change at a time and if it works keep it, if not go back.
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Are your specs the same on primary and secondary?
 
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