Is there anything special to look out for when inspecting a 1970 Dart Swinger?

-

kevink5516

New Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2025
Messages
4
Reaction score
14
Location
Northern CA
Hi All,

I'm new here and new to MOPAR vehicles. I recently came across a local listing for a 1970 Dart Swinger that someone took to 95% completion for a restomod project and then decided to offload the car because they don't have the time to finish it and have to many projects currently. Car has brand new interior and and exterior paint which all look great in the listing pictures. The fact that the car is no longer matching original design doesn't phase me, I like the look they went with. The seller states that the only real problem with the car is that the new shifter and kickdown linkages need adjusting to be drivable. The 318 motor and 727 trans apparently came with the car but the seller knows no history on them other than they aren't the originals for the car from 1970.

The car has really peaked my interest and I'm seriously considering selling my first car, a 1969 El Camino that's I've had since high school and is in need of more restoration work than I have funds/time for, to pick up this Dart. My main concerns with the Dart are obviously what's the quality of the work that went into it since the seller is letting it go at supposedly a break-even price and wondering if there is a bigger underlying problem with the motor and tranny that caused them to dump the car instead of fix it. All my prior classic car experience is with Chevys so I'm looking for advice on anything in particular I should be on the look out for when I go to inspect the Dart. It's still TBD on just how much of a test drive can be done with the current transmission linkage issues. Is there anything about these motors and transmissions I should be on the lookout for to avoid getting screwed? Also, are there any areas on the vehicle especially prone to bad rusting which might have been covered up with half-assed body work? I believe it's always been a California car so hopefully any rusting before the restoration was minimal. Let me know what you guys think it's worth as well.

Additional text from seller's posting:
1970 Dodge Dart Swinger (NO TRADES)
-Clean CA Title in hand (out of DMV system)
-318V8
-727 Auto
-Parts List In Photos

Began a restoration 6 months ago. Replaced the interior and had the body straitened up and sprayed. Redid a bunch of basic steering and suspension components and now it’s a running driving 95% complete car.

Since the install of the B&M Gated shifter we’ve had issues setting the shift linkage on the transmission as well as the kick down. The motor and transmission came with the Dart last driven in 1996. The motor runs strong and transmission seems solid.

We had plans to do a 340V8/Muncie 4 Speed Swap but we’ve lost ambition for the project and are ready to just recoup what we have into it. ’ve done 95% of the hard work, snatch it up, finish it how you want and start turning heads.

-Clean CA Title (out of DMV system)
-318V8
-727 Auto Trans
-Drum Brakes
-Dual Exhaust
-New Paint & Body
-New Electric Windows
-New Tires
-New Carpet
-New Headliner
-New Upholstery
-New B&M Shifter
-New Stereo w/4 speakers
-New Gauges
-New Steering Wheel
-New Fuel Sending Unit
-New HE) Distributor
-New Aluminum Radiator w/Electric
-New Dash
-New Window Sweeps
-New Pedals
-New Headlights
Fans
-New Seat Belts

AISelect_20250325_201624_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201632_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201639_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201646_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201653_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201700_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201706_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201714_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201721_Facebook.jpg


AISelect_20250325_201729_Facebook.jpg
 
Last edited:
rust bad body work even if it need a trans think you could have it rebuilt for under 2k
get a paint meter to see how thick the paint is
check inner rear quarters for repairs ,rockers ,floors
check rad support for repairs , and then compression test ,how does it start cold,how dose it run hot ,........
 
Looks like a nice car. IF he did things correctly. Obviously not a die hard Mopar guy suggesting a Muncie. That may or may not have any bearing on the quality of work. As stated above, take the weakest cheesiest fridge magnet with you and start looking for bondo. The rear quarter and inner drop downs will tell you a lot. Look at frame rails. If it was a vinyl car, there could be damage up by the rear window too. Good luck. Looks like a good platform.

Oh ya, California has no idea how good they have it with cars!
 
What's the "break even price"? Ah and no I'm not interested in buying it. I'd hope they took pictures before they straightened and painted.
 
Last edited:
Hi All,

I'm new here and new to MOPAR vehicles. I recently came across a local listing for a 1970 Dart Swinger that someone took to 95% completion for a restomod project and then decided to offload the car because they don't have the time to finish it and have to many projects currently. Car has brand new interior and and exterior paint which all look great in the listing pictures. The fact that the car is no longer matching original design doesn't phase me, I like the look they went with. The seller states that the only real problem with the car is that the new shifter and kickdown linkages need adjusting to be drivable. The 318 motor and 727 trans apparently came with the car but the seller knows no history on them other than they aren't the originals for the car from 1970.

The car has really peaked my interest and I'm seriously considering selling my first car, a 1969 El Camino that's I've had since high school and is in need of more restoration work than I have funds/time for, to pick up this Dart. My main concerns with the Dart are obviously what's the quality of the work that went into it since the seller is letting it go at supposedly a break-even price and wondering if there is a bigger underlying problem with the motor and tranny that caused them to dump the car instead of fix it. All my prior classic car experience is with Chevys so I'm looking for advice on anything in particular I should be on the look out for when I go to inspect the Dart. It's still TBD on just how much of a test drive can be done with the current transmission linkage issues. Is there anything about these motors and transmissions I should be on the lookout for to avoid getting screwed? Also, are there any areas on the vehicle especially prone to bad rusting which might have been covered up with half-assed body work? I believe it's always been a California car so hopefully any rusting before the restoration was minimal. Let me know what you guys think it's worth as well.

Additional text from seller's posting:
1970 Dodge Dart Swinger (NO TRADES)
-Clean CA Title in hand (out of DMV system)
-318V8
-727 Auto
-Parts List In Photos

Began a restoration 6 months ago. Replaced the interior and had the body straitened up and sprayed. Redid a bunch of basic steering and suspension components and now it’s a running driving 95% complete car.

Since the install of the B&M Gated shifter we’ve had issues setting the shift linkage on the transmission as well as the kick down. The motor and transmission came with the Dart last driven in 1996. The motor runs strong and transmission seems solid.

We had plans to do a 340V8/Muncie 4 Speed Swap but we’ve lost ambition for the project and are ready to just recoup what we have into it. ’ve done 95% of the hard work, snatch it up, finish it how you want and start turning heads.

-Clean CA Title (out of DMV system)
-318V8
-727 Auto Trans
-Drum Brakes
-Dual Exhaust
-New Paint & Body
-New Electric Windows
-New Tires
-New Carpet
-New Headliner
-New Upholstery
-New B&M Shifter
-New Stereo w/4 speakers
-New Gauges
-New Steering Wheel
-New Fuel Sending Unit
-New HE) Distributor
-New Aluminum Radiator w/Electric
-New Dash
-New Window Sweeps
-New Pedals
-New Headlights
Fans
-New Seat Belts

View attachment 1716384136

View attachment 1716384137

View attachment 1716384138

View attachment 1716384139

View attachment 1716384140

View attachment 1716384141

View attachment 1716384142

View attachment 1716384143

View attachment 1716384144

View attachment 1716384145
That looks like fun.
 
Thanks all for the quick feedback.

What's the "break even price"? Ah and no I'm not interested in buying it. I'd hope they took pictures before they straightened and painted.
A56, it's listed at $17.5K. The seller immediately said he'd take $15k for it when I started talking to him. Good point about the before pictures; I'll have to ask for those.
 
He says, "out of DMV system."

In California, doesn't that mean that when you register it, you will have to pay for back-registrations for every year it wasn't registered?

Or do I misunderstand that?

– Eric
 
He says, "out of DMV system."

In California, doesn't that mean that when you register it, you will have to pay for back-registrations for every year it wasn't registered?

Or do I misunderstand that?

– Eric
I caught that as well and that is a fear of mine. I've only started looking into what it would take to get it reregistered; might make a trip to my local DMV before going to check out the car. Apparently any vehicle which hasn't had registration maintained on it for 3-4 years in CA falls out of their digital database. I can't find a clear answer though on if back-registration fees are required or not online. If DMV wiped all of there records for the vehicle, and all I have is a new title for transfer of ownership and to re-register it, I don't know how they'd even calculate how many years of back-registration may be due...
 
I bought my dart from. Cali
What a pia
You transfer on line.....
Than the guy signed it in the wrong place
Took two months to get it straighten out
 
Typical issues with vintage cars...rust, accidents, poor workmanship, leaks, wear, etc. Any complete V8 Dart with a good body and paint that runs and drives has to be worth $15k. As always expect to spend at least $2k to fix the unknown plus the known. The question is whether its close to what you want. If not, that will get expensive.
 
I bet he would take 15k !!!
Looks like a Hooptie to me.
I wouldn't give him 5k.
You would basically be buying someone else's headache.
You would be way better off finding a car closer to original, and building it as YOU please.
 
Not trying to ruin the sellers chance but I would run from that car. Sooo many things I hate about it. No heater, no wipers bottle and lines which makes me wonder if any of that works, no apparent mopar wiring harness, rear spring shackles, the way someone made what looks like a plate and blocked off the dash where the radio and heater controls go, the weird mirror on the door, crappy upholstery and on the rear seats, looks like a quickO bondo and paint job, no trunk lock, the door panels, some weird aftermarket electric windows, the aftermarket aluminum rad which is too far away from the rad support with no shroud, no battery hold down, what distributor is in this? Looks like it almost hits the wiper motor??

All that amongst the typical things you should check for like rust and bondo, like someone else said bring the weakest magnet you can find and check everything. Seeing as the add said pulled from a field 6 months ago it’s a lot to accomplish in a proper quality manor to get a car up and running let alone for sale, also thoroughly check the undercarriage for rust, field grass can hold moisture and cause a lot of rust.
Is it register-able? Title?

Imho, there are lots of cars for sale, be patient and get the best one!
 
well bought mine in 1988 and at almost 20 years old it had a bad hood hinge that blew the metal out of the hood left side. Rust at lower quarters requiring repair and trunk extensions. Id check trunk floor weatherstrip went bad and they leaked... Rust at lower front fenders behind the wheel well where the cowl drains etc. That car looks finished but may have had those issues I am also in the rust belt so...after the body the wiring etc. has to be good. All mechanical stuff can be fixed or replaced etc.
 
I bet he would take 15k !!!
Looks like a Hooptie to me.
I wouldn't give him 5k.
You would basically be buying someone else's headache.
You would be way better off finding a car closer to original, and building it as YOU please.
It's probably worth half ...$7500 these days if you can drive the car away its a plus also while on subject why wouldnt the seller ajust the linkages and kickdown...? :lol: :thumbsup:
 
Or, to put it another way, what hidden problem would the seller pass of by saying,
"Oh, the linkage just needs to be adjusted"?

– Eric
Yup it seems like what an hour or 2 maybe of playing around to ajust? I mean giving credit for age maybe and having to lay under the car if I was selling it Id want it to work for 15 K etc. There are too many high dollar cars where things don't work I think. Yes I think 15 K is up there but Im from the old days I paid 1 thousand for my dart and it needed everything...
 
Projects/non road worthy cars always sell for a discount. Again, are you equipped and wanting to take it on?
 
Not again man I'm too old... you know I look at cars for sale then think "wait I already have one..." I think buying and fixing them up is just a natural thing to want to do but...I bought mine at 19 years old now they are 55 60 years old...
 
For some unknown reason I bought a '63 Chevy II during covid. I thought I could get it on the road in a month as it was all together and running but hadn't been driven for a couple of years and needed an inspection. One year and $$$ later I got it on the road. It kept me busy but I've never been happier selling a car.
 
Also, I will just note, that garage has a lot of hard wear and tear for a car-nut's man-cave.

I mean, dirty, sure, cluttered, it better be, but that place has wear.
Like a whole lotta cars been in an' outta' there over a whole lotta' years.

1743012978841.png


"I had a date like that... once."

– Eric
 
Personally, Id stay away from it, theres too many things that tell me that the car was built/slapped together by someone who didnt give a crap, alot of which has already been mentioned. Im surprised no one has mentioned the seats out of a Demon yet though, totally out of place. And diamond pleated door panels screwed to the doors and kick panels?? :rofl:
And I have to concur with @MDchanic on that garage, like a hookers bedroom for sure.
 
Last edited:
Personally, Id stay away from it, theres too many things that tell me that the car was built/slapped together by someone who didnt give a crap, alot of which has already been mentioned. Im surprised no one has mentioned the seats out of a Demon yet though, totally out of place. And diamond pleated door panels screwed to the doors and kick panels?? :rofl:
And I have to concur with @MDchanic on that garage, like a hookers bedroom for sure.
Like a Chevy guy...? :thumbsup: :lol:
 
I tell you what though ... and this is from a different point of view...it's all there and has paint on it, fix the trans and drive it. You are not going to get a "done right" car for 15 and you aren't going to get a car that "doesn't need everythng
" for less... I kind of hate to say it but that's the state of things now.
 
Oh, it'll add up to many shades more than that when taxifornia does the title/registration. If it was me I would check on that prior to making an offer at a minimum.




I tell you what though ... and this is from a different point of view...it's all there and has paint on it, fix the trans and drive it. You are not going to get a "done right" car for 15 and you aren't going to get a car that "doesn't need everythng
" for less... I kind of hate to say it but that's the state of things now.
 
-
Back
Top