cruiser
Well-Known Member
Watched this video. How in the world did all that water get into that block? Wouldn't filling it up with water like that ruin the engine?
Is this stuff normal?
- Thread starter cruiser
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Watched this video. How in the world did all that water get into that block? Wouldn't filling it up with water like that ruin the engine?
Hey, Bob....
File this under "not good", and get ahold of that machine shop up in Champlin ASAP. I forget their name, and I can't seem to find them on Google right now, but the sooner you contact them (for advice, etc) the better, in my opinion.
As always, if you need any help, you know where to find me.
And good luck!
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I use to see that after storing my boat all winter. It would go away after some usage on hot summer days. Now before I put it in I crack the oil drain (I have a valve on the drain) and drain of the water from condensation. As said is your oil clear?
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Yeah don't do that anymore. Don't start the engine at all unless you're going to drive it long enough to get it up to operating temp and then some. If the car has to sit a month or 2, so be it. Worst case your gas starts to get a little stale and the solution for that is adding some fuel stabilizer, I like Lucas Ethanol Treatment (green liquid). I add that at every fillup on my old Mopars even though they get driven at least once every week or 2.
I have a neighbor down the street with a 3rd-gen Camaro drag car, he'll periodically start it up and let it idle with an occasional rev for a few minutes then shut it down. I mentioned to him once that's not a good idea and is doing more harm than good but I still hear it starting up and revving in his driveway every now and then, nice guy but he's a Chevy guy go figure.
This makes sense to me (commercial HVAC Service Tech), as not only will running it for only a short amount of time help cause condensation, but will also not allow time for it to "boil off".
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Also raw gas from the carb and intake being cold and the choke being on will dilute the oil, wash the cylinder walls causing bore & ring wear and cause carbon buildup. Cold starts are the #1 biggest contributor to engine wear.
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Yeah, when I run it I make sure to get it up to full operating temperature to boil off whatever condensation is in there.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
With it just fast-idling under no load the oil will likely not get warm, certainly not up to 212°+. No way to know based on coolant temp, need to have an oil temp gauge to know for sure.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Coolant temperature isn't the same as oil temperature. It can take much longer to get the oil up to temp, and until the oil is hot the condensation won't get burned off.
Post a photo of your engine, everyone loves engines. Plus we can see how your PCV/breather is setup. Getting ventilation through the engine is as important as getting it up to temperature.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
[Oh beat me to it]
yeah but running it under no load will show decent heat at the gauge, which has its sender stuck in the front of the head but the block will not heat up the same as when under load,
its not the same as fully exercising it at higher rpm.
you want every bit of that oil to go everywhere..... it needs to spend some time as windage to be thrashed about, the water needs to boil off.. its doing its damndest to sink to the nice cold floor of the sump we need it up near the heat to drive it off
high idle under no load...ok........ but only ok if the mixture is bang on...
you are not squirting as much oil up onto the cylinder walls.....
you are not getting the blow down of exhaust, out the exhaust port, and rattling the rings
you are not sucking crap out of the case with the PCV , or via overrun with throttle closed.
the rings are not being forced into their lands and they aint running as well as they do when there is a tonne of combustion pressure trying to ram its way down behind them.
i.e its not the same as driving the car....
start it drive it, or leave it alone, is you best bet in my view
my view may not be popular
Dave
yeah but running it under no load will show decent heat at the gauge, which has its sender stuck in the front of the head but the block will not heat up the same as when under load,
its not the same as fully exercising it at higher rpm.
you want every bit of that oil to go everywhere..... it needs to spend some time as windage to be thrashed about, the water needs to boil off.. its doing its damndest to sink to the nice cold floor of the sump we need it up near the heat to drive it off
high idle under no load...ok........ but only ok if the mixture is bang on...
you are not squirting as much oil up onto the cylinder walls.....
you are not getting the blow down of exhaust, out the exhaust port, and rattling the rings
you are not sucking crap out of the case with the PCV , or via overrun with throttle closed.
the rings are not being forced into their lands and they aint running as well as they do when there is a tonne of combustion pressure trying to ram its way down behind them.
i.e its not the same as driving the car....
start it drive it, or leave it alone, is you best bet in my view
my view may not be popular
Dave
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You need to take it for a long ride,
Warming it up every couple days on high idle i believe caused your issue.
Constantly causing condensation inside and neve getting good heat in the engine with oil splashing.
You may be able to get away with that in a heated garage. Not in a cold garage
Warming it up every couple days on high idle i believe caused your issue.
Constantly causing condensation inside and neve getting good heat in the engine with oil splashing.
You may be able to get away with that in a heated garage. Not in a cold garage
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Engine photos attached. Totally stock with fully functioning PCV system. Regarding the oil temp, I think I got it pretty hot last night on a five hour highway drive, but still had some white goo inside the oil cap after shutdown. No evidence of coolant contamination into the oil, as previously mentioned.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
nice tidy engine bay looks great.....
Dave
Dave
You have problems. I'd remove the valve cover and have a look.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Super clean! I love it.
A 5 hour drive is plenty for sure. Did you clean the cap before the extended drive? The white goo should go away with heat but sometimes won't. But if you have the same amount after a long drive, something could be up. I'm with RRR and would pull the valve cover.
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Dave. Great to see interest in these cars in the UK. Cheers!
French demon
Well-Known Member
It would be useful to check the cooling liquid into the radiator when cold. In the case of a blown head gasket, it's contamined by oil and it will be iridescent. If it's clean and clear, it's probably only the condensation...
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I kinda realized that after I returned. I should have wiped it away before I left on the five hour drive, then checked it when I got back. I checked inside the valve cover as RRR suggested, and all was well in there. So I'm beginning to think that it's just condensed water that I need to drive out of the motor. BTW, this doesn't happen in the summer, leading me to believe that it isn't a problem with coolant leaking.
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Yes, the coolant is very clear of oil residue. Merci!
slantsixdan
=..=
Either use the car—actually drive it—or leave it alone, but "warming it up" without moving it is the opposite of a good idea. You are pouring raw gasoline into the oil this way, with the choke (even partway) closed.
Before the one I have now, my last 2 /6s did what yours is doing when it was cool/cold out, never in warm weather.
My dad's last vehicle was an 86 Dodge van w/a 318, that got used very infrequently and alot of "run uptown for a gallon of milk and check the mail" towards the end of his driving days. Had the same issue with that once that became the normal way it got used. Wipe off that cap, it should dissipate but it'll take more than 1, 5 hours drive. Several 1 hour drives would work too. I know that is a fresh engine I doubt there's much "wrong" with it.
Not a Mopar but coincidentally an inline 6, my daughter in law used to have a Chevy trailblazer. "06 ish". I discovered that same problem one day on it, I changed the oil, pulled the valve cover and found the baffles plugged up. I cleaned everything up, changed oil, did a couple of oil changes at like 1000 miles each and the problem went away. Went back to 5000 mile oil changes after that and it was fine. She probably put another 30k on that thing before selling it, that thing had like 280k on it at that point, original engine, never had it apart. It has like 150k on it when she got it......
My dad's last vehicle was an 86 Dodge van w/a 318, that got used very infrequently and alot of "run uptown for a gallon of milk and check the mail" towards the end of his driving days. Had the same issue with that once that became the normal way it got used. Wipe off that cap, it should dissipate but it'll take more than 1, 5 hours drive. Several 1 hour drives would work too. I know that is a fresh engine I doubt there's much "wrong" with it.
Not a Mopar but coincidentally an inline 6, my daughter in law used to have a Chevy trailblazer. "06 ish". I discovered that same problem one day on it, I changed the oil, pulled the valve cover and found the baffles plugged up. I cleaned everything up, changed oil, did a couple of oil changes at like 1000 miles each and the problem went away. Went back to 5000 mile oil changes after that and it was fine. She probably put another 30k on that thing before selling it, that thing had like 280k on it at that point, original engine, never had it apart. It has like 150k on it when she got it......
in that video I suspect they did that on purpose. But yes if it was in there and run it would cause damage, if it got in there and immediately drained without running may be not.
famous bob
mopar misfit
was/did that from day one when it was new till I traded it , I think it was a condensation trap , never showed up in the oil ...?
vitamindart
Well-Known Member
use to see that stuff all the time as a kid when I worked at a penzoil quick lube joint.
but as others have stated even a high idle to "temp" is not to temp and isnt burning off all the bad its causing.
but as others have stated even a high idle to "temp" is not to temp and isnt burning off all the bad its causing.
Well good. Then it might be just a case of bad condensation. Lets hope so. That's too nice a car to have to yank back apart. Again.
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