68-GTS
Super " Senior " Member
lol that is what my dad said, to use a 4x4 and a jack and stick it on the ceiling
You gotta go through the windows tho as to not dent the roof tin...
I'm sure you realize that tho ....
lol that is what my dad said, to use a 4x4 and a jack and stick it on the ceiling
You gotta go through the windows tho as to not dent the roof tin...
I'm sure you realize that tho ....
yes i do
I'm curious what the huge notch in the cross member is for? I'd think that could be throwing the whole thing outa wack especially if it had a lot of pressure on it. Also if the pan needs the sides were it welds to the rocked trimmed it might make it too high in the center.
I have been away and just caught up on reading the thread.
When you have the original pan in everything lines up, correct?
When you put the AMD pan in and clamp it at the fire wall then the trans tunnel won't lay down where it should, correct?
If you try pushing the trans tunnel down then you have a gap at the fire wall where the metal doesn't meet correct?
I suggested you take measurements of your pan that fits the car and the AMD pan, them match the numbers up. Did you do that? If so what is the results because you haven't said?
Standard 4 speed tranny linkages?
yes your all right, and i didnt measure both pans but i did lay the pan i have on top of the amd pan and they seem to be the same..
i emailed AMD about it and this is what they said:
received your email about the duster floor installation and the issue you are having with the installation.
I looked at the photos and I have had a similar issues with a MOPAR floorpan installations. I found that the firewall must be the last item clamped so the floor can be pushed down all the way and secured to the crossmember. The floor only needs to weld on the horizontal surfaces of the cross member, if you look at the crossmember you will see where the original welds were. Pulling the firewall and floor together will be tough because once the floor is removed the firewall tends to move forward at the bottom. Also MOPAR’s are many times mig welded at this floor to firewall flange because the fitment was so poor here during production and the spot welder would not work on these short flanges. Let me know if this helps you out or if you need any more information with this one. Also feel free to call if you would like,
I have a factory 340 4 speed car and there are no noches in the crossmember . I'd bet that has everything to do with your floor problem. There is tons of force put on it by the springs and transmission . The floor was probably holding it up till you ur it out and now it's sagging.
I have a factory 340 4 speed car and there are no noches in the crossmember . I'd bet that has everything to do with your floor problem. There is tons of force put on it by the springs and transmission . The floor was probably holding it up till you cut it out and now it's sagging.
I am putting this thread on my subscribed list because I am very interested in seeing how this comes out.
should the floor be sealed before it is put in?
you're getting there. its looking a lot better. im going to guess that those gaps are tolerances in the amd stampings. i looked at my factory floor, and it is a closed tight fit in those areas. im not sure there is a whole lot you can do about it. i suppose you could try pulling it together with sheet metal screws starting from the center of the hump and working your way out. tack it, then pull the screws out.
the firewall to floor butt looks great. maybe if you get a jack under the trans mount , you can bring the floor and crossmember closer together with some weight on the trans hump.
i would concentrate on these areas or maybe thats what you are talking about