Issue with stalling when in gear

-
plymouthpontiacman

plymouthpontiacman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2024
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Location
Oklahoma
So I recently bought a 1967 barracuda convertible. I’ve had issues with when putting in gear it stalls. Also, I had the transmission rebuilt with a new torque converter. At a stop light. I have to hold the brake and give it gas but the engine still seems to pull forward until it stalls. I am at a loss. It has a 904 transmission with a slant 6 225. I am about to give up on it. Any thoughts on what the problem is. It had the same issue before rebuilding the transmission. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Have you put a vacuum gauge on it?
 
Yes. But it’s all over the place. I disconnected the vacuum advance line and hooked the gauge there. I really don’t think it is a transmission issue. At this point since I had it rebuilt. I really feel it’s a carb issue. But not sure.
 
You need to put the vacuum gauge on a manifold port NOT the vacuum advance port.

Go to mymopar.com and get your cars factory service manual.

Look for the carb section and follow the instructions there for trouble shooting.
 
Obviously the car drives, but stalls at idle. Don't see the need for vacuum gauge reading because the car drives, plus if it doesn't idle......a vac reading all over the place just confirms what you already know.....it won't idle.

If it still has points ign, check the gap. If the rubbing block has worn so that you have almost zero gap, stalling is a common problem.

After that, the usual culprits: dirt in the idle system/jets, blocked air bleeds, float level, etc.
 
Bewy said:
Obviously the car drives, but stalls at idle
Click to expand...
I can get a V8 to drive on 6 cylinders but it won't idle in gear..

Tuning the idle of the carburetor with a vacuum gauge allows the timing to be optimized and the throttle blades to be closed as much as possible to get a good strong idle that can handle the load from the automatic at idle.
 
But he won't be able to do that if it needs a tune up, valve adjustment, valve job, carb work, has a vacuum leak, etc etc.
 
Before you take any advice to do ANYTHING, first verify the condition of the tuneup. Check the point dwell, look at the spark plugs. If it will run in park, check the timing. Until you have a base line of where everything is now, you're likely to get lost trying to figure it out. If you don't have a factory CHRYSLER service manual for your car, get one.
 
What you need is a 318 jammed under the hood, ....... lol. and an A833Overdrive, which has a nice Parade gear and a nice Hiway gear. I know where to find everything you need, including a 4bbl carb, that will cure all your problems.
And you're only 16 hours South of me.
 
With a 6 have less cyls than an 8, one [ or more ] cyl going out is going to be even more noticeable....
My comments were based on the driver having enough nous to feel the difference between all 6 cyls 'working' versus 1 or more not working.
You wouldn't need a vac gauge to tell you that & it is not going to help you find the problem.
You would just be wasting time hooking up the VG....to tell you what is already evident.
 
Find tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. As soon as you can, get the three books listed in this thread.
 
Some great feedback. Thanks. I finally have a couple days off. Gonna start with the points, new intake gasket. Already rebuilt the carb. Someone ask about the torque converter. I replaced also when the transmission got rebuilt. I determined it was not the transmission after having it rebuilt. Maybe I should consider putting HEI on it. I put that on my 1966 Tempest. Made all the difference. Thanks. Keep thoughts coming. I will let you know how it goes.
 
plymouthpontiacman said:
anyone know what the timing should be set to?
Click to expand...
Yep. It's in the back of the electrical section under ignition of the Factory Service Manual.*
For the rpm the timing should be set at, go the fuel section.
Of course if you've changed the distributor, the factory setting for that year, etc, may not be exactly right, but should be a good starting point.
Your '67 will be non-CAP unless it was a sold in California.

*I'm sure I've posted the initial timing for '67 225 where I graphed the curve if you want to do a search here.
 
plymouthpontiacman said:
Already rebuilt the carb.
Click to expand...
I'd start with that as a possibility.
Which carb?
plymouthpontiacman said:
I determined it was not the transmission after having it rebuilt.
Click to expand...
Wait, you suspect the transmission was causing this same problem? I don't think any of us would have guessed that from you first post.
It sounds like the engine lacks power at idle and off idle.
My suggestion would have been to start with checking fuel level, idle mix and timing.

plymouthpontiacman said:
Maybe I should consider putting HEI on it.
Click to expand...
??????????????????????????????????????????
When there is problem, its best to trouble shoot it. Keep projects seperate.
plymouthpontiacman said:
Gonna start with the points, new intake gasket.
Click to expand...
OK. I could understand points, but why intake gasket? That's a major project. What clue is there that it related to the intake gasket?
As far as points go, the beauty of them is you can see the wear. On the other hand the condensor, especially new ones are a crap-shoot.

If you want to look at anything, I'd suggest spark plugs and fuel level. Also make sure pump shot is working.
Then go to initial timing. Set it with the vacuum advance plugged, and to the rpm in the spec. Then adjust the idle fuel mix. Then check rpm and timing again, and if its different, adjust the rpm, adjust timing if needed and then fuel mix.
 
Mymopar.com

free download.

op noted early on the he suspected the trans so he had it rebuilt but it still does it after rebuild.
so it's not the trans.

op stated he hooked up a vacuum gauge to the vac advance port and it was bouncing all over the place.


There should be no vacuum at that port at idle, the butterflies are open too far.


they are open too far because either the advance is not right, or the idle screws are not right or the idle butterfly position is not right. Or some combination of all these things.
 
So here is where we stand. Lots of good info from everyone. Thanks. Looked at the points. Brand new. Checked the gap was good. Put my timing light on it and put at 0. Now the car runs good and does not stall in gear. But now is flooding and hard to start. I am now looking at the air mixture screw. When I take off from a stop now hesitates to go. Sometimes it dies. Getting closer. It has the Holley 1920 carb. Fuel pump is new also. That was all replaced by the previous owners. The only thing I have done was replace the gas tank. It had a lot of rush in it and when I filled it up it leaked out the sending unit. Now might be the time for the vac gauge?
 
Set the timing to 5 or 10.

Adjust the idle speed back down and adjust the idle mixture.
 
at what rpm?
is it already advancing?
without the tach it becomes a wild good chase.
with a '67 225 distributor advance begins as low as 650 rpm

Was this done on the fast idle step or the slow?
is the choke on? is the fuel level correct? is the pump shot working?
These are all things I would check based on ppm's post saying its fuel.
Of course I would have pulled at least one plug to see what's going on if I suspected fuel issues that were not obvious (like pump shot)
 
Last edited:
Gonna jump back on it in the next couple days. Plugs looked good when I checked some time back. Replaced the choke from the exhaust manifold a couple weeks ago. It literally was wired to make work. When it flooded the other I only got it to start holding the choke wipe open and pedal to the floor. Still trouble shooting. Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top