It is official, rods are toast. Now rebuilders

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RedFish said:
cherry picker and engine stand will linger and consume space like so many unused gadgets on the kitchen counter top. Then there is an array of tools required for a rebuild that will cost you.
The average Joe... He does some measure of maintenance/repairs form brakes to headliners. He isn't equipped or trained for rebuilding any of the 3 major drive train components. He will come out ahead with a reman'd engine from Jasper/wherever installed by who ever. His money is better spent on warranties.
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My engine puller AND stand break down and hug a wall that's never used. Money better spent on warranties when you have to pull **** sh8t out 3 times because the build was crap.

Do it yourself, do it right, do it once. At least you know the tolerances were good. Plus, it's an engine, not a rocket ship, machine work is key; a blind man can put it together. ANNND, you learned a new skill! Why are people so afraid of learning new things? It's like "Oh my dad didn't do cars so that automatically makes me anept." Nonsense. "My dad was a transmission guy so I can't do body work." Ridiculous!

Excuses, not solutions. You either WANT to do it, or you don't. Sheer will goes a LONG way in ANY type of trade work. We live in an age where the information on how to get it done is at your finger tips. Do you want it or not?
 
I agree large shop tools do take up space, but my attitude is either you are in the hobby or not. No offense meant. That's how I see it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I agree large shop tools do take up space, but my attitude is either you are in the hobby or not. No offense meant. That's how I see it.
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true as that may be, I'm sure there are many of us who have to make choices
sometimes there just isn't enough money for an old mopar and a cherry picker
and sometimes there just isn't enough room for an old mopar, 14 childrens bikes and and cherrypicker
 
That and not everyone has the room.....some live in apartments and the like. But again, the car hobby is hard enough as it is without all those constraints piled on too.

I have tons of room out here where we are, but even I have thought about not staying in the hobby. There's a ton to it.
 
diymirage said:
your in LA right ?

I would search around the forum for one or two fellow members who are willing to help you out

if one of them brings a cherry picker and the other brings a spare 225, or better yet, a 318 I bet with the promise of a good coockout and an afternoons work you can have that puppy running again
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This is really what the hobby is about. Making new friends, helping each other out, drinking a few while doing it.
 
Space the final frontier. I do have a cherry picker. I've used it all of twice in 8 years. I would get a lot more use from a tire machine, brake lathe, etc.. I would use pretty much everything Harbor Freight sells at least once. I don't recall seeing enough unused space in that store to work on a car.
I use the Christmas tree every year. It takes up about the same space as the cherry picker. If I state which of those two I would sooner get rid of, well...I guess I aint in the hobby. LOL
When we do the best we can, no more, no less, while recognizing and staying within our restraints, life's good.
 
madmax/6 said:
I have a foldable cherry picker in Long Beach I will loan out to anyone who needs one.
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madmax/6 said:
And a engine stand.
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i have a coworker like that

and his cherrypicker and engine stand have been in my garage since last fall :cheers:

I was working out to return them (because I didn't need them anymore when I spun a rod bearing :banghead:
 
Taking something to an "engine guy" "carb guy" "rebuilder" etc is just asking to be overcharged for something like that because you don't know how to do it yourself.

Pull the engine, put it on a stand and tear into it. Your absolute priorities are bagging and labeling bolts so that you don't lose them or mix them up. The "everything in a can" method won't work. Next is to mark the rods so that you know where they were in the engine and what direction, and also match mark the rod caps to the rods and main caps to the block so that again you know exactly where everything was.

Once you get everything apart you can take the parts to a good machine shop to have the block cleaned and honed/bored, the crank inspected and turned and the rod with the bad bearing rebuilt if necessary.

After, you can either bring everything back and assemble it yourself or have the machine shop assemble the longblock for you.

Just remember that it'll take over your life for a month or so and it's vital that you ahve a good area to work in and that you are capable of devoting the necessary attention to this kind of thing as well as actually being motivated to do it.

Otherwise, haul it to the rebuilder, let him handle it then write a check at the end.
 
Now on another topic, which came up after reading a few of your replies about Warranties? I never even considered trying to buy another engine, but searching online there seems to be a Engine Locator service that has reman engines? with 7 year warranty? wow. and for much less than a rebuild (if I have a shop rebuild).

So now my question is, there seems to be 2 different types of slant 6 225 engines dependingon year. 1966 and older has a different engine part number, than 1967 and newer. the 67 and newer says it has a 2.157 crank hub?

will either engine fit or do i need to limit myself to the 1966 version?
Also I like the fact that these reman engines require me to reuse valve cover, chain cover, oil pan. So that is stuff I can do and feel like I am "rebuilding" it. Right?

Also this would assume that I need to get a hoist and stand (looks like I can borrow one from the forum member) .
 
Probably the difference is in the rear of the crank shaft; there is a hole there where the nose of the torque converter fits in (for an auto trans). It changed to a larger size in the '67/'68 time frame. So you need to stick with the earlier engine. If this is a typical rebuilder, you may end up with later parts on it, just an early crank.

Who/what is this service? There are sadly a number of problematic rebuilders out there.

No need for a stand if you are just swapping engines, just the hoist.
 
NO, You don't need to stick with the one year of motor. There is a bushing you can get that will work. I don't have the info but go to http://www.slantsix.org/ and sign up if not already, and just start digging and reading. They have a lot, and I mean a lot of tech info, just have to dig. Good Luck
 
the earlier crank will be a forged steel piece. The later crank can/will be forged or cast ( luck of the draw ). Not a major difference though, just saying.
Add radiator to your calculations. If the warranty company proves you ran it too hot, they wont pay. I saw Fords warranty deny claims for both temp and oil issues.
 
I want to thank everyone who has posted and given me ideas. I take everything you guys say very seriously.
ok after calling the reman. store, price is much higher than the website said. old webpage I guess. $1475, plus $150 ship, plus $300 core charge.

So I am set on having it done at a local shop, where I can drop the car off, then pick it up when done. I can go visit her anytime too.

Now I do have some say in what brands of parts get used, I don't know much about good vs crap brands. so any names to avoid? This is to get the car back up to daily driver status, and last a long time. No need for hotrod of high performance.

This is what he is gonna do:
New Pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearing, cam bearings
New camshaft
New lifters
New timing chain and gear
New oil pump
gasket set
brass freeze plugs
Block gets hot tanked, bored and honed
Crankshaft gets ground and micro polished
Cylinder head gets valve job with deck.
Engine will be painted orange.

includes remove and reinstall.
1 year warranty

2 weeks turnaround
 
Expect to have to have some/all valve guides replaced and some of the valves replaced too. I would ask for the cam and lifters to be examined before assuming it needs replacing. If it is good, keep them; spend the $$ on the valves and guides. Don't get a high volume oil pump; the pump gear is a bit stressed as it is. And I would ask Doug Dutra (Doctor Dodge on www.slantsix.org) to blueprint a pump for me rather than buy a standard one.

EngineTech has decent kits for the first line of parts. Perhaps the gaskets too; I like the Felpro sets.

Have the radiator cleaned and checked too.
 
I know you said "no high performance" but I would suggest getting some taller pistons to get the compression ratio up
and if your buying a new camshaft anyway, I would get one with a bit more bump to it

its even money at this point
 
gdizzle said:
I want to thank everyone who has posted and given me ideas. I take everything you guys say very seriously.
ok after calling the reman. store, price is much higher than the website said. old webpage I guess. $1475, plus $150 ship, plus $300 core charge.

So I am set on having it done at a local shop, where I can drop the car off, then pick it up when done. I can go visit her anytime too.

Now I do have some say in what brands of parts get used, I don't know much about good vs crap brands. so any names to avoid? This is to get the car back up to daily driver status, and last a long time. No need for hotrod of high performance.

This is what he is gonna do:
New Pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearing, cam bearings
New camshaft
New lifters
New timing chain and gear
New oil pump
gasket set
brass freeze plugs
Block gets hot tanked, bored and honed
Crankshaft gets ground and micro polished
Cylinder head gets valve job with deck.
Engine will be painted orange.

includes remove and reinstall.
1 year warranty

2 weeks turnaround
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Put all that on hold--- EGGE --- is in Santa Fe Springs,
been in business since 1921?,

info here
 
mech1nxh said:
Put all that on hold--- EGGE --- is in Santa Fe Springs,
been in business since 1921?,
Click to expand...
The Egge kits are quite expensive and I am not aware that their parts are any better. You can get a better reground cam and lifters from Doug Dutra for the same price as the standard Egge part.

The EngineTech kit has good parts, and is MUCH less.

A couple more things I will say to the OP on cams and such is that the later cam for the /6 is better; has more lift and zip to it. Uses the same other valvetrain parts. My favorite cam for a stock rebuild would be a torque cam from Doug Dutra rather than any stock cam; better torque and throttle response. I would also suggest a new set of valve springs; they tend to get weak and the valve action gets poor. The Sealed Power ones are available for about $2 each; you buy box of 16. So those are cheap renewable parts for any stock rebuild old or new cam.

Also, have the head shaved .050" or .060" for improved compression. No other mods needed for that.

The VHT Chrysler Red is almost a perfect match to the original. Don't be a skunk and let them use Chebbie orange LOL.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah but then he has to go to a slam different rod. Mo money mo money. Nobody makes them for the 225 rod.
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listening to the knock in the video he posted I wouldn't be surprised if he doesn't need at least one new rod anyway

but I see your point, if the rods are usable a head shave would be more cost effective
 
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