Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
I have done this very mod myself LOL.
Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda
- Thread starter JohnFM3
- Start date
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I have done this very mod myself LOL.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
We will see if it comes to that. I found i owned the CJ / Early YJ oil pan. So if that can fit, then I am golden. To be honest, the more I thought about it the more i liked it. But that option requires me to pay someone to do the fab work.
John
where does Chevy fit in that line? They don't. They made some trannys to fit the 258, as well as some ignition components and some used GM starters and alternators but nothing "Chevy" about that engine. I think IH cast some blocks for AMC for a couple years (I know they did some 318s for Mopar around 1977ish, I had a couple over the years)
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Well, things are paid. Tow truck has been scheduled. Pick up at 10am PST and I should have it by 11am.
I doubt I will get much time on it this weekend. Though I am going to try. I need to get the E-Brake installed and working first. Then I can investigate pulling the oil pan. I doubt I will have time for both items this weekend.
I doubt I will get much time on it this weekend. Though I am going to try. I need to get the E-Brake installed and working first. Then I can investigate pulling the oil pan. I doubt I will have time for both items this weekend.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
1984 thru 1986 when Cherokee came factory with the Chevy 2.8L was dubbed the Chevy era. As you also noted, up till 87 when Chrysler took them over, there were many individual parts including the Throttle Body fuel management used in the Wrangler 4 cyl. Replaced with the Chrysler 4cyl and fuel management which was the same as the 4.0L minus 2 cyl.
The shop doing my ECU and harness maybe using my spare 4 cyl harness (Chrysler era 1995) to build my new harness for my car. Depending on determined condition.
There really isnt much to add here. The main point made in that post was the compatibility of the oil pan and gasket thru the various years from 1970's thru 2004.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Maybe a bit out of the box, consider a dry sump engine oiling system. You will need a couple of high volume oil evacuation pumps, a remote reservoir, plumbing from the reservoir to the oil pick up. Could simplify your install and resolve any ground clearance issues.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I thought about that. There are no Dry Sump systems for the Jeep 4.0L which means I have to build a custom oil pan and if I want to use the original pump (as a lift pump in addition to the external pump) then I need to modify the pick up tube. I am considering it as a last resort.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Ok, its home. Now its time to dig into the priority issues.
To get the barracuda able to start and move, the following need to be done.
(Probably in this order)
Sort out and attach E-Brakes (with any luck the factory mopar e-brake cable can attach to the ford drum brakes like my Jeep Wrangler did)
Solution for steering linkage and oil pan issue
Install H.O. Throttle Body, Intake, and Exhaust manifold
Build & Install ECU and Engine Wiring Harness
Install Steering column to steering box link
Install steel braided lines and proportioning valve for brakes
Install Exhaust
Install usable Wheels and Tires
To get the barracuda able to start and move, the following need to be done.
(Probably in this order)
Sort out and attach E-Brakes (with any luck the factory mopar e-brake cable can attach to the ford drum brakes like my Jeep Wrangler did)
Solution for steering linkage and oil pan issue
Install H.O. Throttle Body, Intake, and Exhaust manifold
Build & Install ECU and Engine Wiring Harness
Install Steering column to steering box link
Install steel braided lines and proportioning valve for brakes
Install Exhaust
Install usable Wheels and Tires
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Regarding exhaust.
Has anyone used a Dual outlet 40 series Flowmaster (In my case Single In Dual Out) under an A-Body? Is there room for two 2in (or 2.25in) pipes to come over the axle on the driver side, then split with 1 going towards the passenger side and the other coming out the drivers? Of course this would be around the fuel tank. And may not be a good idea.
Until I can run a full dual system, I am going to go with 2.25in head pipe to Flowmaster performance Cat Converter. 2.5in between Cat Converter and Flowmaster. From there, single 2.5in out the driver side rear, or dual 2in or 2.25in in a traditional dual setup.
The Cat Converter is the correct one listed for Jeep Cherokees with the 2.25in Inlet and 2.5in Outlet.
Has anyone used a Dual outlet 40 series Flowmaster (In my case Single In Dual Out) under an A-Body? Is there room for two 2in (or 2.25in) pipes to come over the axle on the driver side, then split with 1 going towards the passenger side and the other coming out the drivers? Of course this would be around the fuel tank. And may not be a good idea.
Until I can run a full dual system, I am going to go with 2.25in head pipe to Flowmaster performance Cat Converter. 2.5in between Cat Converter and Flowmaster. From there, single 2.5in out the driver side rear, or dual 2in or 2.25in in a traditional dual setup.
The Cat Converter is the correct one listed for Jeep Cherokees with the 2.25in Inlet and 2.5in Outlet.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Regarding Wheels...
With the car home today I took time to assess the most important issue of the build, will the wheels fit. In short, the wheels look totally BA. But I dont think they will fit. The rears are almost workable. But the fronts, no way. Not unless I want to lift the car, maybe build a Hi-Boy. which I have no interest in. I am trying to go for a touring look with the tires just looking like they are tucked in the wheel wells.
With the car home today I took time to assess the most important issue of the build, will the wheels fit. In short, the wheels look totally BA. But I dont think they will fit. The rears are almost workable. But the fronts, no way. Not unless I want to lift the car, maybe build a Hi-Boy. which I have no interest in. I am trying to go for a touring look with the tires just looking like they are tucked in the wheel wells.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Here is the look at the Passenger rear wheel. It looks as if the outter rim of the wheel is going to hit the inner half of the panel seam. If I was to roll the seam, I could most likely fit the wheels. But I wanted a slightly wider tire to give the wheel a sucked in look.
Using a coke can for perspective, I could use the rears if I didnt want the touring look, but more of the muscle car look. Could still go wide tires like a 285 in a 50 series which would probably be close to 3/4 the height of the can.
The fronts are what totally ruin it for the rears. More on that in the next post.
Using a coke can for perspective, I could use the rears if I didnt want the touring look, but more of the muscle car look. Could still go wide tires like a 285 in a 50 series which would probably be close to 3/4 the height of the can.
The fronts are what totally ruin it for the rears. More on that in the next post.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Not trying to be discouraging, but you have a long way to go before the proper wheels are an issue. Just get wheels and tires that are good enough to roll the car around on and for short test drives. Focus on what’s next, and that ain’t wheels.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Now for the fronts, the wheels have almost 1.5 to 2 inches of clearance between the back rim and the ball joint. But they stick out past the fender probably a good 1.25in. I have plenty of height clearance to run them if I wanted to build a 1990's low rider with the wheels sticking out. But I wanted a touring car, at least a muscle car. And in that I dont think these wheels work out.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
The current wheels are 9in wide and a 4in back spacing. If I was to run a 9in rear with a 5in backspace and a 8in front with a 5in or 5.5in backspace, I could get the look I am wanting. Just means waiting a while till I can purchase a wheel/tire combo. Hopefully in a style similar to what I have now. Meanwhile i can redirect the funds for tires to something else to keep the build moving.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
True. But I had them and it was cool to finally start seeing this car look like something. I enjoyed my evening getting these pictures.
Got the thing home and the engine in and no pictures of the engine in the engine bay. Man that's just wrong on every level I can think of.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
On page 13 there are a bunch of pictures of the engine in the engine bay which I took while it was at the fabrication shop. If people want me to post more pictures of that, I am more than willing. I figured that the next set of pictures people would want to see is this weekend when I tear in to the oil pan situation and possibly replace the intake and exhaust manifold to the correct setup from a H.O. (High Output) engine. Current images are the early 4.0L with the Renix fuel management.
Sometimes Ya need to jump ahead for a moment to envision the finish line, it provides a little jump start to one's motivation.
Didn't We already discuss using a half-section of exhaust tubing to mod a cove into the 258 oil pan for centerlink clearance?
Ok cool thanks. I'll check it out.
ok. I saw those, but I didn't realize that it was in the right place and on the mounts.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I totally love this idea.....
We did. And at the same time I found I owned a 258 oil pan. As shown in prior post, it may just work without modification. And since I am not the best welder, if that will work without modification, I am running it. I did investigate the dry sump idea. Nothing off the shelf to purchase, and with the 2 options currently at my reach I will not be looking into that right now.
I will be dropping the oil pan this weekend most likely with pictures and a story to share.
I promise to avoid a "Hold my beer and watch this..." moment with out getting video and posting on youtube.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I will be grabbing pictures of the modifications made to the mounts to make them work. I didnt want the K-Member modified, but we had too. Kept it minimal. Only had to weld the tabs which the poly mount sit between on the pillows of the k-member.
Again, I will get some pictures of the mounts and try to describe what was done to make this work in a up coming post.
It looks sweet.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Ok, I got some pictures of the motor mount solution. I wish he had not cut the brackets as far down as he did. But it is clean. And can be addressed at a later time.
Here are pictures of the the motor mounts as they were originally bought.
Right Side
Left Side
And here are the mounts modified and on the car.
Passenger Side
The 4.0HO block these are meant for use the 2 holes in the upper right of this mount for securing the coil. I will probably need to flip it, but should still work. And with the 1997 block I am going to build for this car, all the mounting locations will be used including these 2.
Driver Side
In all, I am really happy with how it turned out and this gets me 1 step further in my build.
Thanks,
John
Here are pictures of the the motor mounts as they were originally bought.
Right Side
Left Side
And here are the mounts modified and on the car.
Passenger Side
The 4.0HO block these are meant for use the 2 holes in the upper right of this mount for securing the coil. I will probably need to flip it, but should still work. And with the 1997 block I am going to build for this car, all the mounting locations will be used including these 2.
Driver Side
In all, I am really happy with how it turned out and this gets me 1 step further in my build.
Thanks,
John
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
very nice welds
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
The fabricator did a very good job in my opinion given what he started with.
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