JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
if we want to go down the path of one upping each others wife.... lol
My wife who auto-crossed a 1972 Datsun 510 with a Nissan 300z VG-30 v6 for several years would say power brakes is the only way to setup.
Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda
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if we want to go down the path of one upping each others wife.... lol
My wife who auto-crossed a 1972 Datsun 510 with a Nissan 300z VG-30 v6 for several years would say power brakes is the only way to setup.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Well, there has been some movement last weekend. No pictures as I didn't believe the work done was worthy of them.
We got the Transmission and Engine back out for modifications to start. I have the new flywheel which will match the Crank Position Sensor for the newer TJ ECU. Still waiting on the engine fuel management electrical. But I will start looking into the oil pan interference of the steering linkage issue. A tube thru the pan is still and option... lol
Will be reaching out to the shop about the fuel management soon.
John
We got the Transmission and Engine back out for modifications to start. I have the new flywheel which will match the Crank Position Sensor for the newer TJ ECU. Still waiting on the engine fuel management electrical. But I will start looking into the oil pan interference of the steering linkage issue. A tube thru the pan is still and option... lol
Will be reaching out to the shop about the fuel management soon.
John
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Hey group. Does anyone have any experience with the company HotWire Auto?
Hotwire Auto specializes in stripping down Fuel injection for use in conversions. Such as when you want to install a Hemi in a hotrod with the factory fuel management.
HotWire Auto
The shop I had planned to do the work has been really backed up. After a long wait and no end in sight, I have opted to look for other shops. I spoke with the owner of Hotwire who seems pretty knowledgeable. Even more impressive is his experiance with the Jeep injection harness. Apparently he has done several Jeep conversions for those who want the 4.0L in a CJ.
I am thinking of sending in my wiring harness this weekend. Before I do, I was hoping to hear back from members who may have had experience with them and what that was.
Thanks,
John
Hotwire Auto specializes in stripping down Fuel injection for use in conversions. Such as when you want to install a Hemi in a hotrod with the factory fuel management.
HotWire Auto
The shop I had planned to do the work has been really backed up. After a long wait and no end in sight, I have opted to look for other shops. I spoke with the owner of Hotwire who seems pretty knowledgeable. Even more impressive is his experiance with the Jeep injection harness. Apparently he has done several Jeep conversions for those who want the 4.0L in a CJ.
I am thinking of sending in my wiring harness this weekend. Before I do, I was hoping to hear back from members who may have had experience with them and what that was.
Thanks,
John
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Update. I have tested the 4.0L engine with the CJ oil pan and the steering linkage installed. If the car was to only go straight, the oil pan clears the steering linkage. That said, I have made arrangements with a welding shop to clearance the back portion of the sump at mid level where the linkage is. On another note I have paid Hotwire for the fuel management harness work. I should see the harness returned before Feb 2023. And finally regarding body and paint I have bought the wicked wine plasti dip kit including the sprayer and currently sanding flaking black paint away trying to leave as much of the OEM ivy green paint alone. I am really liking the original color and want to see if I can retain it with a modern twist adding a second color such as black.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Ok, in digging into my car i have realized that I dont have the build tag located in the engine compartment. The sticker in the door jam is missing as well. And there is no build sheet in the back of the rear seat.
And I am trying to identify the original color of the car. I believe its Ivy or Ralley Green.
Picture of are which has not been sanded
Picture of the trunk lid paint After Sanding
Any other way to identify the original color?
thanks,
John
And I am trying to identify the original color of the car. I believe its Ivy or Ralley Green.
Picture of are which has not been sanded
Picture of the trunk lid paint After Sanding
Any other way to identify the original color?
thanks,
John
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Look on line for original paint colors for a 69 Barracuda. That stuff is posted. Once you have it narrowed down visit an automotive paint store that has been around for a while and they may have a catalog of Chrysler paint samples and formulas of colors.
To get a good look at the original car color: door jams, inside the trunk, under the hood would be the places to look.
To get a good look at the original car color: door jams, inside the trunk, under the hood would be the places to look.
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JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I have jumped online and narrowed it down to the 2 I called out. I am hoping someone may know of another location the paint code may be stamped on the body. Otherwise, I will have to do as you suggested.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
BTW: Happy Thanksgiving to all.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
I believe the fender tag is the only paint code keeper.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Thats what I am afraid of. I will keep everyone posted.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I had a chance to spend some time over the long weekend to work on the Barracuda more. The car has been re painted a black over the oem green. The re paint has been flaking which is the primary reason for whats being done now. I have been able to sand the majority of the flaking paint off which means the car is about ready to spray plasti dip. I need to buy a 12ft by 20ft tarp building in prep. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.
Meanwhile, in the garage the engine has had more work done. I installed the oil CJ (1986) 258 pickup tube on the 4.0 and made note of its location. It appears I have the clearance for the steering linkage. My steering linkage has about 1.5in of movement (Front to Rear) as it moves Left to Right. And with the steering set straight, there is about half inch of clearance to the oil pan. My thought is to notch the oil pan for the steering linkage about 2 inches.
John
Meanwhile, in the garage the engine has had more work done. I installed the oil CJ (1986) 258 pickup tube on the 4.0 and made note of its location. It appears I have the clearance for the steering linkage. My steering linkage has about 1.5in of movement (Front to Rear) as it moves Left to Right. And with the steering set straight, there is about half inch of clearance to the oil pan. My thought is to notch the oil pan for the steering linkage about 2 inches.
John
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Late happy holidays and Happy New Year.
To everyone,
I have exciting news to share. The oil pan has been modified and the engine is installed as of today. Steering linkage clearance issue has been resolved.
I believe the rear of the engine is sitting high a small amount in these pictures. Final fitment will be confirmed when I have the transmission installed in place. These pictures are with the steering turned to the left full. The oil pan is a sacrificial pan which was used for v1 mock up. I asked the welding shop to weld it up and not worry about pin holes as this is the mock up and a new oil pan and pictures will be provided for the final build. The new one will be tig welded instead of wire feed.
To everyone,
I have exciting news to share. The oil pan has been modified and the engine is installed as of today. Steering linkage clearance issue has been resolved.
I believe the rear of the engine is sitting high a small amount in these pictures. Final fitment will be confirmed when I have the transmission installed in place. These pictures are with the steering turned to the left full. The oil pan is a sacrificial pan which was used for v1 mock up. I asked the welding shop to weld it up and not worry about pin holes as this is the mock up and a new oil pan and pictures will be provided for the final build. The new one will be tig welded instead of wire feed.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
More to update. Hotwire has completed my engine harness and had it delivered between xmas and new years. I have the 1997 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) ecu. I have my HO style intake and fuel management. I also have the v2 version of the exhaust manifold, single collector with flex sections on cyl 1 and 6. I also have purchased the HO era flywheel which is where the crank location is identified.
Parts needed to start engine
Once the the transmission and steering column are installed, i can tow the car to the exhaust shop for the exhaust work. Right now I have nothing for exhaust. Hopefully this can be done in Feb. I need to recover from the holidays.
Parts needed to start engine
- Fuel pump (60 psi)
- Crank Position Sensor (located on the trans bell housing)
- 1997 Wrangler Distributor
Once the the transmission and steering column are installed, i can tow the car to the exhaust shop for the exhaust work. Right now I have nothing for exhaust. Hopefully this can be done in Feb. I need to recover from the holidays.
Glad to see you're still after it! Happy New year!
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Steering column work was more involved than thought. I finally got it together for test fitment, followed by trimming. Hopefully this week, most likely this coming Saturday.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Final fitment of the steering column complete. It fits nice and snug with 3/4 of inner lower shaft showing between the coupler and the lower outer shaft. With this fitment, I would need to undo the steering column to do any work requiring the removal of the steering coupler. So I think I am going to cut 1 inch off the column body and outer shaft for additional clearance then do finally assembly. By Saturday I will have a car with working steering. A first since purchasing the car and starting down this project.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Not worthy of pictures, that said, my car now has steering which works. Turn the steering wheel, and the wheels turn. 
I dont suspect much more work will be done until after tax season. I need to save my pennies to make sure I clear taxes. Next to do will be getting the engine to start.
I dont suspect much more work will be done until after tax season. I need to save my pennies to make sure I clear taxes. Next to do will be getting the engine to start.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
This project is not dead. Updates to come. Parts ordered and being shipped now. We should be starting the engine within 1 month of the parts arriving.
Heck yeah! I will say you have great tenacity!
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Ok, so now a update.
I believe I have all the parts needed to get the car started with exception of a battery.
Tanks Inc ~ 1967-69 Plymouth Barracuda EFI Fuel Tank
Tanks Inc ~ GPA-2 Fuel Pump 58psi / 190 Liters Per Hour
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Sending Unit
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Line and AN fittings
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Tank Straps
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Tank strap rubber liner
American Powertrain ~ HydroMax Clutch master cyl and brackets
Summit Racing ~ Crown Clutch and Internal Slave Cyl
Summit Racing ~ Starter
Summit Racing ~ Distributor
Quadratec ~ Crank Position Sensor
Quadratec ~ Spark Plug Wires
As these parts start showing up in the next 2 weeks, I will get a order from Napa Auto Parts for the O2 Sensor and Spark Plugs.
I have already bought the correct flywheel, I will need to confirm I own the Bolts. I keep a new set on hand as my 1992 Wrangler has a AX-15 5 sp. If not, I will be buying bolts as well.
The fuel pressure issue has been resolved. The pump is a 58psi pump, and the fuel managment is looking for 48psi. I bought the above tank and pump so I knew I had a return line option which would work. In 1999, the fuel system pressure is controlled by the ECU which tells the Pump. There is no return line. In my setup, the fuel pump is ON or OFF by a relay. The earlier HO fuel rail such as found on my 1992 Jeep Wrangler has a vacuum operated return regulator. Best yet, the Jeep uses standard 3/8 quick disconnect fittings. Which came with the Tanks Inc kit. This will keep the pump running and cooled as fuel flows thru it.
I can not wait to get the exhaust installed. FlowMaster dual chamber 2.5in single in / 2.25in dual out and FlowMaster 2.5in Hi-Flow Cat Converter.
I will have something very similiar to stock Jeep pipe sizes. 2in or 2.25in head pipe into the Cat Converter, 2.5in between Cat Converter and Muffler, and in this case, probably dual 2in out to rear. Normally it would be a single 2.25in tail pipe. My Cherokee and Wrangler are stock head pipe, and 2.5in cat back which is pretty normal Aftermarket install on jeeps of my era which sound really nice. What I am doing should sound good and give me the tone I am looking for.
I believe I have all the parts needed to get the car started with exception of a battery.
Tanks Inc ~ 1967-69 Plymouth Barracuda EFI Fuel Tank
Tanks Inc ~ GPA-2 Fuel Pump 58psi / 190 Liters Per Hour
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Sending Unit
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Line and AN fittings
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Tank Straps
Tanks Inc ~ Fuel Tank strap rubber liner
American Powertrain ~ HydroMax Clutch master cyl and brackets
Summit Racing ~ Crown Clutch and Internal Slave Cyl
Summit Racing ~ Starter
Summit Racing ~ Distributor
Quadratec ~ Crank Position Sensor
Quadratec ~ Spark Plug Wires
As these parts start showing up in the next 2 weeks, I will get a order from Napa Auto Parts for the O2 Sensor and Spark Plugs.
I have already bought the correct flywheel, I will need to confirm I own the Bolts. I keep a new set on hand as my 1992 Wrangler has a AX-15 5 sp. If not, I will be buying bolts as well.
The fuel pressure issue has been resolved. The pump is a 58psi pump, and the fuel managment is looking for 48psi. I bought the above tank and pump so I knew I had a return line option which would work. In 1999, the fuel system pressure is controlled by the ECU which tells the Pump. There is no return line. In my setup, the fuel pump is ON or OFF by a relay. The earlier HO fuel rail such as found on my 1992 Jeep Wrangler has a vacuum operated return regulator. Best yet, the Jeep uses standard 3/8 quick disconnect fittings. Which came with the Tanks Inc kit. This will keep the pump running and cooled as fuel flows thru it.
I can not wait to get the exhaust installed. FlowMaster dual chamber 2.5in single in / 2.25in dual out and FlowMaster 2.5in Hi-Flow Cat Converter.
I will have something very similiar to stock Jeep pipe sizes. 2in or 2.25in head pipe into the Cat Converter, 2.5in between Cat Converter and Muffler, and in this case, probably dual 2in out to rear. Normally it would be a single 2.25in tail pipe. My Cherokee and Wrangler are stock head pipe, and 2.5in cat back which is pretty normal Aftermarket install on jeeps of my era which sound really nice. What I am doing should sound good and give me the tone I am looking for.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
OEM Clutch pedal assembly purchased from Ebay. As soon as it gets here, hit it with some form of rust converter, get it lubed up, and get it installed for testing.
Keep in mind, once the fab work is done and the car is a rolling chassis, I get to tear the car down and get all the body work done before final assembly.
Thanks,
John
Keep in mind, once the fab work is done and the car is a rolling chassis, I get to tear the car down and get all the body work done before final assembly.
Thanks,
John
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
So some background on the engine....
Its my mock motor for the time being. Its a running engine from a 1988 Cherokee which makes it a Renix era engine. The block and head are more or less the same and can run with the new fuel management with out issue. What does make this block special, in the early 4.0's additional ribbing was added in the crank case which as been said to make them better candidates for stroker builds.
That said, this block is my first choice for building. I do have another 1988 block in storage as well. While building what ever I end up building, I will pick up another running engine to take the place.
Its my mock motor for the time being. Its a running engine from a 1988 Cherokee which makes it a Renix era engine. The block and head are more or less the same and can run with the new fuel management with out issue. What does make this block special, in the early 4.0's additional ribbing was added in the crank case which as been said to make them better candidates for stroker builds.
That said, this block is my first choice for building. I do have another 1988 block in storage as well. While building what ever I end up building, I will pick up another running engine to take the place.
Looks like you got it fittin in there pretty dang good now!
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
The only thing stopping this engine from starting is me. I have all the parts but oil filter and oil. I just have not been able to make the time to re install the clutch and transmission.
I am shooting for Labor Day weekend.
John
I am shooting for Labor Day weekend.
John
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