Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

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JohnFM3 said:
The only thing stopping this engine from starting is me. I have all the parts but oil filter and oil. I just have not been able to make the time to re install the clutch and transmission.

I am shooting for Labor Day weekend.

John
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Don't rush it man. We'll still be here. You've done great on it. Just keep on keepin on!
 
Haven't followed in a while, lotta good hotrodding going on there.
Imagination, thought, I think tenacity was mentioned !
Great job, keep up the good work .
 
I made it a point to look at the date of my first post on this thread, to get to this point has been 8 yrs in the making. Thank you to all who have been interested in my project. I am making progress, slowly. ~ John
 
JohnFM3 said:
I made it a point to look at the date of my first post on this thread, to get to this point has been 8 yrs in the making. Thank you to all who have been interested in my project. I am making progress, slowly. ~ John
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You, like many here, have a busy life....the project has been a challenge, I have less to show for the same time period on My own projects, w/o the swap difficulties!!!! great job stickin' with it!!
 
Ok Group, the beginning of this summer after I had purchased all the parts I had vowed to see this car start before the end of Summer. Its labor day weekend and I have 5 days off. Between today and Tues. There is no excuse, there is not that much work to be done. I just need to remain motivated.

I do have a question where I am seeking opinions.

Situation:
I am unsure on the state of the engine. I have used it as a mock up motor. I believe it does run, just not sure how well. The trans tunnel has not be cut for the top mount shifter, which is ok as i dont have a shifter installed in the transmission. And I am not sure the condition of the tranny yet as well.

Question:
Would be better to only install the Flywheel (which is need for crank position sensor), followed by the transmission. Or should i install the full clutch setup including the internal slave cyl.

Under the assumption it starts, if this engine is bad its getting replaced asap. If its a runner (aka not knocking) and sounds strong enough to move the car down the road, then its being removed so a new Oil Pan can be built correctly and new gaskets including head gasket installed. In both cases, I want to end up with a engine strong enough to run the car around town while working on other body work and such. Meanwhile a new motor build can hopefully get started in the winter a year from now, probably a 4.7 stroker (4.0L with the prior gen 258ci (4.2) crank and rods).

I don't have a drive line for the car, nor does it have a brake system yet. So I am kind of leaning on installing what is needed for the electronics to start the engine.

Is there any thing I am missing as to why I should consider a full install of everything?
All my parts are oem replacements for the 4.0L and matching transmission including the hydro internal clutch slave cyl, at this time there is no concern of compatibility.

Thanks,
John
 
Tasks to accomplish starting

Install list
  • Flywheel
  • Crank Position Sensor
  • Transmission
  • Starter
  • Distributor
  • S.Plug Wires
  • Spark Plugs
  • Exhaust Manifold
  • Intake Manifold
  • O2 sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Fuel Lines to Injection rail
  • Fuel Lines to fuel tank
  • Power to Fuel Pump
  • Oil Filter
  • Oil

In my younger days this would have been 1 full day work (maybe 2 if I was slow). I am allowing for 5... :-(
 
In my opinion, if you’re planning on pulling the engine regardless, I wouldn’t bother installing the clutch and throw out bearing at this point
 
In my younger days this would have been 1 full day work (maybe 2 if I was slow). I am allowing for 5... :-(

I can do all that in one day, that is, removing the items. reinstalling them? 7+ years and counting...
 
I am done for the weekend. It wont be starting and I dont know what I am going to do now.

In my original plan, I was going to with a forward rack and pinion steering system. With how poorly that turned out, I am now using HDK's coil over with the OEM steering linkage. I have a bit over 4.5in of space between starter mounting surface and linkage. I am totally messed up on this.

I dont know what to do, or if I should even continue. :-(
 
take a break, leave the garage door closed, put your feet up and enjoy your favorite beverage and snack with a close friend or the breeze in your face.
 
I can not believe I missed this. And with so much money invested. And some pretty expensive re designs with the money spent on the first suspension setup, only to dump it and go with HDK and his solution.

The original OEM starter is 8in long. And the mid line of the starter pinion is directly behind the Idler shaft.

My only option may be to cut the firewall and move the engine back 4 inches.
 
abdywgn ~ yeah, I was looking at that with Summit racing. Its 6.75 inches from mating surface to end. Green Meenie is 6 inches. I have a couple of options. Cut the firewall and push the engine back the 2 inches for the PowerMaster. Or cut the trans tunnel and firewall to lift the engine up 2 inches for a OEM to clear the linkage. Raising the engine may require a Pro-Stock full length hood scoop to contain the valve cover.

75Slant6 ~ Stand by, I will get one.
 
JohnFM3 said:
I am done for the weekend. It wont be starting and I dont know what I am going to do now.

In my original plan, I was going to with a forward rack and pinion steering system. With how poorly that turned out, I am now using HDK's coil over with the OEM steering linkage. I have a bit over 4.5in of space between starter mounting surface and linkage. I am totally messed up on this.

I dont know what to do, or if I should even continue. :-(
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I'm guessing that when you say that there’s 4.5 of space between the starter flange and “linkage”, you mean the rear brace for the HDK kit and not the steering linkage?
 
75slant6 said:
I'm guessing that when you say that there’s 4.5 of space between the starter flange and “linkage”, you mean the rear brace for the HDK kit and not the steering linkage?
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No, I mean steering linkage (Idler Shaft) Pictures coming
 
I was wrong, I have 5 inches with some room for wires. I tilted the engine into the correct position and had an assistant hold the measuring tape while I took pictures.

20230902_124150.jpg



20230902_124208.jpg



20230902_124115.jpg
 
Are there any options for dropping the drag link at most 1.5 inches? In the Jeep community, a 90's dodge Dakota Pittman Arm fits the Cherokee steering box and provides a 2 or 3 in drop which helps in steering linkage geometry when you install suspension lift over 4inches.

What are my options with a Dodge A-Body with swapping Pittman and Idler Arms to lower the steering linknage? And I wander what the impact would be to the knuckle side tie rod ends.
 
abdywgn said:
I cast a vote for engine set back, gotta help handling and traction but a ton more work.
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I can only imagine how much that's going to cost me. The first issue with that is the location of the shifter will probably end up and the back rest of the seat. Minor issue to the benefit of the project moving forward.

I am kind of with you on this. As I wanted to install the AX15 transmission at the last point before paint. Which was going to require a larger trans tunnel. Maybe I cut the firewall and open the trans tunnel now. Push the engine up 1/2 inch and back 2 inches.

The only potential problem I see there would be getting around the intake and exhaust manifold. I may only be able to squeeze 1/2 back with out huge cut out for the manifolds.

If there are options for lowering the steering linkage as well, the combination of work may make it doable.
 
not enough lowering but the SuperStock A-bodies had spacers between the k-frame and frame rail. I "think" the lower ball joints were bent to realign the linkage but still not enough for what you need. think spacers were 1/2' or so.
 
That is a good option. The HDK coil over suspension has a bracket to hold the lower control arm in place that bolts to the Chassis Frame rail. I would have to speak with HemiDenny about longer brackets which he may be willing to do.

1/2 in lower K Frame with the Engine lifted 1 inch may make a big difference with out having to push the engine back.
 
The original steering system was the correct solution. I just couldnt make it safe for the road. Thats why I switched back to the OEM style. HemiDenny worked with me on this for some time before I finally decided to ditch the first setup.
 
JohnFM3 said:
I can not believe I missed this. And with so much money invested. And some pretty expensive re designs with the money spent on the first suspension setup, only to dump it and go with HDK and his solution.

The original OEM starter is 8in long. And the mid line of the starter pinion is directly behind the Idler shaft.

My only option may be to cut the firewall and move the engine back 4 inches.
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Can you get us a picture when you feel up to it? We might be able to come up something as a team.
 
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