Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

[Inertia]

I know I'm late to the party, I have altered the bellhousing to relocate the starter to a better position, just a thought .
I also had to alter the starter housing to match.

 

[JohnFM3]

I know I'm late to the party, I have altered the bellhousing to relocate the starter to a better position, just a thought .
I also had to alter the starter housing to match.

yeah, I am not sure I am ok with that. Then I have to worry about shimming starters and such. More so, I barely can weld with a MIG, I have never tried TIG nor do I have the equipment. Typically, I spot weld my work and pay a welder to follow behind and get it solid. If there was a bolt on bell housing which was setup for it, I would be all in. Unfortunately, my options are limited. And with the starter going forward, there is probably only the 2 lower positions usable for the starter to sit with out hitting the block. And my Exhaust/Intake manifold set is on the driver side. Leaving that whole side of the engine unusable.

 

[Inertia]

yeah, I am not sure I am ok with that. Then I have to worry about shimming starters and such. More so, I barely can weld with a MIG, I have never tried TIG nor do I have the equipment. Typically, I spot weld my work and pay a welder to follow behind and get it solid. If there was a bolt on bell housing which was setup for it, I would be all in. Unfortunately, my options are limited. And with the starter going forward, there is probably only the 2 lower positions usable for the starter to sit with out hitting the block. And my Exhaust/Intake manifold set is on the driver side. Leaving that whole side of the engine unusable.

Yep, just throwing it out there, - sometimes it plants a seed .
Been there .
You've proven to be resourceful.
Put a marine starter in from behind?

 

[Inertia]

What kinda starter are you using.
My son's jeep has a little Denso starter in it.
Those starters came in so many variations, different offsets etc.
My local auto electrical rebuilder fabbed, made a nose outta 2 other starter pieces for my altered bellhousing.
You spent a ton of $$, can't stop now .

 

[JohnFM3]

Yep, just throwing out there, - sometimes it plants a seed .
Been there .
You've proven to be resourceful.
Put the starter in from behind?

I know. I do appreciate your suggestion and the interest in my project enough to make the suggestion. Its that support which has kept me from giving up, and I have been so close to giving up. A stroker slant 6 would be so easy in comparison to this. I could even maintain the Jeep 4.0 fuel managment I have purchased already. It would work great.

We have gone around on this for a while. I am trying to avoid taking a loss on this suspension and trying again. I was trying to also remain as much Mopar as possible including Brakes. Now with my Ford 8.8 rear axle, going with ford spindles and brakes to match will make it easy to keep track of what parts to ask for when it comes to brakes at least.

My next move is on the HDK or QA1. If I had the $10K cash, I would buy both kits and find which one works on this project and take a loss on the other. HDK has given me as much info as possible, and Denny has gone beyond to help me. When I called QA1 for some measurements and info, they were far from helpful. But then, what I need is so 1 off. I need to see the kits on cars so I can take measurements and judge for myself without having to impact others.

I have found a '73 duster (318 w/auto) for sale for $3k I may buy. If I do purchase, my suspension kit I have will not be wasted or sold, but used on that. This will fill my need to be crusin a classic muscle car while I start over the suspension build my Barracuda. Although that additoinal money for that car would probably make my car street-able after purchasing a new suspension package for $5k.

Again, I want to say thank you for your interest.

~ John

 

[Phreakish]

I have a power master starter on a ford motor, and the thing is downright tiny compared to the OEM starters. Might try giving them a call to see what they have that might fit as is?

 

[JohnFM3]

I have a power master starter on a ford motor, and the thing is downright tiny compared to the OEM starters. Might try giving them a call to see what they have that might fit as is?

Thanks for the info, I have just called them and left a message. ~ John

 

[JohnFM3]

Pictures of OEM starter for Mid 90's Jeep 4.0L. Its 8 inch from mounting surface to end.

 

[JohnFM3]

I have found 6 inch starters, but I have 5.5inches of clearence before hitting the idler arm. So I am thinking no longer than 5 inches from the mounting surface is my target.

Now with gear reduction starters, if it sits up high enough to be above the idler joint, that would allow for more length. Keep in mind, the 73 v8 center link bolts from underneth the idler arm. I think there is a picture on prior page showing this.

 

[Inertia]

I'm thinking Suzuki or similar with a jeep nose on it, kinda like this, but a simi,ar gear reduction with jeep nose.
If you have a rebuilder near you, go bounce this off him.
He'll be able to tell you the shortest, torquiest, starters, maybe whatll adapt.
Will take someone that wants to help, or has the passion, as you do.
You got this ,

1988 SUZUKI SAMURAI 1.3L L4 Starter Motor | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[JohnFM3]

I'm thinking Suzuki or similar with a jeep nose on it, kinda like this, but a simi,ar gear reduction with jeep nose.
If you have a rebuilder near you, go bounce this off him.
He'll be able to tell you the shortest, torquiest, starters, maybe whatll adapt.
Will take someone that wants to help, or has the passion, as you do.
You got this ,

http://[URL]https://www.rockauto.co...1.3l+l4,1271146,electrical,starter+motor,4152

[/URL]

Hmm, that has me thinking. Mean Green has failed to call me back after several attempts. I spoke to another starter shop who said the builder who could help works Mon thru Wed and will call me first of next week. I left PowerMaster a message today following the above suggestion.

 

[Inertia]

Hmm, that has me thinking. Mean Green has failed to call me back after several attempts. I spoke to another starter shop who said the builder who could help works Mon thru Wed and will call me first of next week. I left PowerMaster a message today following the above suggestion.

How bout sawing the ends off another relay rod, weld them, with a spacer, to the existing relay rod, in a manner that is structurally sound, and spaces the rod 2 inches further forward.
This needs a lotta thought, safety being the priority.

 

[JohnFM3]

How bout sawing the ends off another relay rod, weld them, with a spacer, to the existing relay rod, in a manner that is structurally sound, and spaces the rod 2 inches further forward.
This needs a lotta thought, safety being the priority

I dont know what your talking about. Never torn down a starter. Just bought replacements.

 

[Inertia]

I dont know what your talking about. Never torn down a starter. Just bought replacements.

Oh, sorry, that's the reason I'm nicknamed "inertia", I get on a roll, hard to stop . lol
I'm on to the steering relay rod from one side to the other, and spacing it forward for more clearance .

 

[Phreakish]

Oh, sorry, that's the reason I'm nicknamed "inertia", I get on a roll. lol
I'm on to the steering relay rod from one side to the other, and spacing it forward for more clearance

Or even move the idler outboard toward the wheel and make a custom drag link and shorter tie rod on that side? Also just spit balling..

The power master starter is a gear reduction unit and is also pretty small. They make clockable ones and all sorts of different styles. Not cheap, but cheaper than a rack and pinion swap.

 

[JohnFM3]

Power Master called back and has said they have no options for me.

I have called some other places and struck out.

I can not sell my suspension for enough to get close to purchasing a new suspension setup. My wife suggested buying another A-Body (73 Ply Duster) to use this suspension and steering setup and park my barracuda back in the garage till I can afford the $5k investment to try again. This will put a halt on this car for quite some time, so much wasted cash. :-(

John

 

[JohnFM3]

Update: Alt and starter exchange is out of business, he still builds on the side but said he has no options. He recommended another local shop who has no options.

I am pretty bummed. Almost ready to give up and build a fuel injected stroked super slant 6. Would be cheaper than another suspension kit, just not what I wanted. And I am so close.

 

[Inertia]

I was your second postin this thread, lotta money, time, imagination,
and desire,
Take a break, go look at the feasibility of moving the steering link as I mentioned.
The Slants work well on their side, can you not lay it over somewhat similarly?
You're nowhere done yet .

 

[JohnFM3]

I was your second postin this thread, lotta money, time, imagination,
and desire,
Take a break, go look at the feasibility of moving the steering link as I mentioned.
The Slants work well on their side, can you not lay it over somewhat similarly?
You're nowhere done yet .

I will take a break. Next I need to clean the garage and get the engine replacement work on my TDi Jetta done. Then free up the garage to move the Barracuda in. I will take this winter and look over it again.

 

[Inertia]

I will take a break. Next I need to clean the garage and get the engine replacement work on my TDi Jetta done. Then free up the garage to move the Barracuda in. I will take this winter and look over it again.

You're nowhere near done, you'll get this, I luv a challenge, and someone saying "can't be done", I say "yet" . lol
Stay in touch, DM welcome.
My latest racecar is a very quick transverse engine, to a modified bell RWD trans, some said can't, - rulebook didn't. lol

 

[75slant6]

Power Master called back and has said they have no options for me.

I have called some other places and struck out.

I can not sell my suspension for enough to get close to purchasing a new suspension setup. My wife suggested buying another A-Body (73 Ply Duster) to use this suspension and steering setup and park my barracuda back in the garage till I can afford the $5k investment to try again. This will put a halt on this car for quite some time, so much wasted cash. :-(

John

If my wife suggested I buy another car, I sure as heck wouldn’t argue with her!

 

[JohnFM3]

If my wife suggested I buy another car, I sure as heck wouldn’t argue with her!

yeah, but if I could afford to buy another decent car, I would invest it in the barracuda build. That said, I may have found a 73 Duster with 318 and a 904 for a affordable cost of $3k.

 

[JohnFM3]

Or even move the idler outboard toward the wheel and make a custom drag link and shorter tie rod on that side? Also just spit balling..

There is no good movement of the idler shaft. As it needs to be moved Up/Down to get out of the way of the starter. Moving down would be the easiest, which would put it in danger of impact under the car.

 

[Killer6]

There is no good movement of the idler shaft. As it needs to be moved Up/Down to get out of the way of the starter. Moving down would be the easiest, which would put it in danger of impact under the car.

That's not really an option, it would induce a large amount of bump steer, not good or safe. It's too bad, I had an HO 4.0L & 4.2 here, but pitched most of it. Kept heads, some brackets, flexplate, block plate, the fuelie intake & harness/PCM/Etc. Don't believe I have a starter here, or I'd scope it out to see what could be done/interchange with it.

 

[JohnFM3]

The only real option is to go with the Mustang 2 front steering rack style. And its a toss up between HDK coil over and QA1 Coil over. I really need to see both systems in a car and see which one will work. I want to favor HDK, Denny has been good to me. In the end, I need to go with the solution which will work. If cash was no option, I would buy HDK first and fall back to QA1 before giving up.

If anyone has a HDK coil over steering rack A-Body Mopar close enough to drive, i would love to see it in person. 75Slant6 has been a big help. Hopefully its minimal effort and he can help me visualize whether the HDK kit will work or not.

If the HDK kit will work, then its just cash to get the parts in.