d55dave
Well-Known Member
Perfect, keep us posted! I also use a little thread sealer on the band stud that protrudes through the case, and a very light skim of silicone on the underside of the jam nut.
Jeff's 727 rebuild thread
- Thread starter MrJLR
- Start date
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Little update. ...
I'm off today for President’s Day
She's back on the ground! !!
Gotta fill the transmission with fluid and just a couple of other little things and I'll be ready to fire her up!
Jeff
I'm off today for President’s Day
She's back on the ground! !!
Gotta fill the transmission with fluid and just a couple of other little things and I'll be ready to fire her up!
Jeff
Woohoo....it drives!
Back on the ground
Ok....one issue right off the bat...
When I take off in drive, it starts in second gear, but I can manually put it in first and manually go through the gears.
Could it be the throttle pressure?
Any ideas?
Jeff
Back on the ground
Ok....one issue right off the bat...
When I take off in drive, it starts in second gear, but I can manually put it in first and manually go through the gears.
Could it be the throttle pressure?
Any ideas?
Jeff
Hmmmm...I do have a little trouble getting it into park.....but once it's in drive, it starts in second gear. ..?
Jeff
KickDown
Just a Brit in Germany
How did the air pressure test check out before you mounted the valve body Jeff? If all was ok I would suggest as others have that the shifter linkage is a tad out or you have a cross leak somewhere in the valve body. also the 1-2 shift valve might have stuck in the 2nd gear position. With the 1-2 shift valve at rest against spring pressure it is hydraulically impossible that 2nd gear can be engaged even with the shifter in manual 2nd.
Everything seemed correct to me.....
I guess I'll try adjusting the linkage....but that doesn't make sense to me...
If I shift into drive, it should start in first regardless of my linkage?
The only way I get first gear is if I manually shift it to first.....
Could out of adjustment linkage cause that???
Jeff
OK.....thanks guys.....can't wait to get out there and mess with it....
Freakin' work is keeping me from all my fun!
Jeff
Old and lazy is no way to go through life!!!! LOL
Good job Jeff.
Agree on linkage. I always place the shifter in N and find N notch on trans arm. All the way back on trans arm is park.
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How do you find the neutral spot on the trans/rooster comb? All I know for sure is park...
Jeff
Two clicks forward on the arm
Park is back, R is next, N is second click
Park is back, R is next, N is second click
LOL....that makes sense!
Gonna try to mess with it tonight after work.....fingers crossed!
Jeff
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
Can you post a picture of the kickdown linkage at the trans where the adjustment is? Was the governor assembly on the output shat modified in any way with the shift kit? I fear that Kickdown is correct about fluid pressure finding it's way past the throttle valve, or maybe even a governor circuit somewhere. Maybe read through the shift kit instructions again and review pictures you took during the disassembly. You may realize a mistake was made that is easy to fix. And don't worry, the trans should not have to come out again. Problem is most likely in valve body or governor assembly, if kickdown linkage is correct. Shift linkage won't cause this.
KickDown
Just a Brit in Germany
Jeff. Give me until tomorrow to answer in detail on my home PC. I'm farting around on my tablet right now coz I'm not at home. I have a possible theory but it will take weeks to type it on this thing. Bear with me!
Zac Curl
New Member
My vote is valve body problem, not sure where but a valve must be in wrong. Study the shift kit install instructions and your book. Valve orientation, spring location and size as well as check ball locations are all critical. The good news is that the valve body can be removed without pulling the transmission.
Ya....I'm thinking valve body. ....not that bad to pull the valve body out.....
Ugh!
Jeff
Ugh!
Jeff
d55dave
Well-Known Member
Yep. I also agree valve body. If you have access to another one (904 is the same) swap it out, even if stock, and see if it all works good. Could be a spring or spool valve installed wrong, or a burr on one hanging it up.....
KickDown
Just a Brit in Germany
Ok Jeff. Let me try to understandably explain what I think is going on. When you select D at a stand still the only component that is hydraulically activated is the forward clutch. The clutch frictions are engaged in the front planetary ring gear & turn this ring gear clockwise. The power flow through the geartrain in 1st or low gear uses both planataries for the gear reduction of 2.45:1. Due to the geartrain rotation the rear planet carrier wants to turn anti clockwise. This is prevented by the 1 way roller clutch (Sprag) holding the rear (low/reverse) drum against counter clockwise rotation. The rear planet carrier is splined into the low/rev drum so the drum is also held against counter clockwise rotation. This causes the rear ring gear or annulus, which is splined to the output shaft to rotate clockwise at a reduced speed giving you 1st gear in D or "Breakaway 1st to use the Chrysler term. With me so far? Good!
Right, Now you shift into manual low or 1st gear. The forward clutch is engaged but now the rear (low/reverse) servo is hydraulically activated clamping the rear band around the low/reverse drum preventing counter clockwise rotation. This will give you 1st gear as before & also the braking effect from the engine on decelleration. On the shift from 1st to 2nd gear, the intermediate (front) servo is hydraulically activated, clamping the band around the front (direct/reverse) clutch drum preventing rotation. As soon as this band is applied, the sprag releases, because the low/reverse drum now rotates in a clockwise direction.
Still with me? Now if there was a fault in the valve body that was causing the front servo to apply when you select D this would give you 2nd gear at take off. This is where I am certain your issue lies. You will have to pull the valve body & check the 1-2 shift valve to see if it is hanging up & find out if you have any cross leakage that is causing the intermediate servo circuit to be pressurised.
I hope I didn't lose you in the explaination & I will keep my fingers crossed for you. You can sort this!!
Cheers. Gaz
Right, Now you shift into manual low or 1st gear. The forward clutch is engaged but now the rear (low/reverse) servo is hydraulically activated clamping the rear band around the low/reverse drum preventing counter clockwise rotation. This will give you 1st gear as before & also the braking effect from the engine on decelleration. On the shift from 1st to 2nd gear, the intermediate (front) servo is hydraulically activated, clamping the band around the front (direct/reverse) clutch drum preventing rotation. As soon as this band is applied, the sprag releases, because the low/reverse drum now rotates in a clockwise direction.
Still with me? Now if there was a fault in the valve body that was causing the front servo to apply when you select D this would give you 2nd gear at take off. This is where I am certain your issue lies. You will have to pull the valve body & check the 1-2 shift valve to see if it is hanging up & find out if you have any cross leakage that is causing the intermediate servo circuit to be pressurised.
I hope I didn't lose you in the explaination & I will keep my fingers crossed for you. You can sort this!!
Cheers. Gaz
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