Jerico

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jcmmurray

jcmmurray

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Anyone running a jerico DR4-4 or DR 4 tans.? was wondering how the instal was and what had to be modified for the mount. Or if there is a supplier that builds a mount for the crossmember. Found a good deal on a trans that was never raced and hardly driven
 
hi, jerico trans will require the crossmember to be reworked to fit trans mount.
also, bellhousing will have to be drilled for trans face mounting. the tunnel will have to have a square hole cut on right side. about 4" square for trans to fit up in tunnel. other than that ,its a bolt in!! its worth the work, takes a bout a week to get it all done. the long shifter fits better through the floor versus the H pattern style. just food for thought,
 
So I blew my 408. Not sure yet what happened but my crank is now in 2 pieces . Anyways. Going to build another one and while its out I'm going to probably get a set up with a dr-4 Jerico and an adjustable soft loc mcloed clutch. The trans is for a Chevy , mounting will be just a bit over an inch different than the Chrysler Jerico mounting from my understanding to the Jerico sites measurements , so a trans mount mod is going to have to happen, no biggie. Anyone on the forum pull this off in a Dart? Does a QuickTime bell housing fit the floor pan and firewall? I have a few questions .
 
I put a DR4 jerico in my 66 Dart two years ago with a softloc clutch with a quicktime bell for an 833, 3 of the 4 holes are already drilled and tapped the 2 on top are 1/2 inch the bottom hole on drivers side is 7/16, the bottom hole on pass. side needs to be drilled. You use the inside hole for the ford bolt pattern. For a trans mount I used the original crossmember, trimmed it down and welded a 1/4 inch plate to it to except a chevy trans mount(the one I used was for a 71 chevelle th350 trans). The trans hump will need reworking to fit the square finned lid on top of the trans(I made a new top cover out of 1/4 inch plate for the top of trans with button head bolts for more clearance and used a hammer and dolly to clearance the tunnel instead of cutting the hump out). I also bought an 18 spline chrysler input and bearing retainer from jerico so I could use the stock clutch linkage, throwout bearing(hemi 18 spl bearing), and pilot bearing. The input and retainer where around $350 to $375 an this was cheaper and easier than trying to cob something together for the chevy input. You will have to shorten the driveshaft and get a th400 slip yoke.
I made my own shifter mount plate out of 1/2 inch aluminum so the shifter came up through the factory hole in the floor hump and shift linkage out of steel tube and 3/8 heim joints. You will have to drill a 1/2 inch hole on the right side of the bell between the the top and bottom trans ears in line with the allen head adjusters on the softloc pressure plate then mark the balancer where the 6 adjusters line up with the hole in the bell for ease of adjustment then get a long 7/32 ball end allen wrench and cut the short end off and glue it into a 7/32 1/4 inch drive socket for an adjuster. Easiest and fastest way to adjust static pressure on clutch.
 
Perfect, a bit of worth it work, finding Chevelle trans mounts shouldn't be a problem around my place , I don't mind cutting my tunnel up to fit. Did your car have a 4 speed tunnel or the auto tunnel before you had to fit it. Do you drive it on the street at all? I'm sure I will be a bit. The guy I'm getting the trans off will be ordering me an 18 spline and bell to go with it . Would you prefer a roller bearing input or bushing ? I had trouble finding a bearing for an eagle crank
 
My Dart was converted to a 4spd about 12 years ago with a factory 4spd tunnel.Yes I do drive it on the street, you have to double clutch each shift( push in the clutch pull it into neutral push in the clutch pull into gear)after a few times you will get the feel for it without clunking or grinding or just stab the clutch and shift it quickly. The clutch gets real graby on the street(in or out) the hotter it gets, always keep the static pressure on the clutch turned up high for the street or the clutch will slip. I use the roller pilot bearing that fits in the hub for the torque converter. This setup can be a PITA on the street but when setup right you will be grinning from ear to ear at the track, nothing is more fun than banging through the gears with your right foot planted on the floor and never worrying about mist gears.
 
Ya. I'm excited for next year at the track. I converted my car to a 4 speed just last year and put the tunnel in myself, I don't mind hacking it up a bit for the pleasure of bangin gears. With 3:91 gears I found it hard to power shift from 1st to 2nd and missed on 2ndto 3rd the odd time, linkage was a bit sloppy with the vertigate shifter. you know how that feels with an audience . This mod will be a lot better for me . You don't happen to have any pics of your cross member do you ? If not. That's fine. I was thinking about just building a whole new trans mount to the original cross member. How was the linkage with a long shifter around the cross member
 
I don't have any pics of mine, but I kept it simple just cut the bracing out of the center of the stock crossmember, then cut it out lower and wider to clear the mount pad on the Jerico. Than I used a piece of 1/4 inch steel 2 inches wide by 3 to 4 inches long , measured and drilled the two hole for the bottom of the chevy mount (which fits down inside of the crossmember). Put the trans in and the crossmember , centered the trans in the tunnel tack welded the steel too the crossmember then marked the bottom of the trans pad for the to upper bolt holes in the chevy mount. Dropped the crossmember and welded it up and put a couple of braces on the inside to stop any flexing. I drilled and tapped the trans pad for the upper mount bolts and bolted it back together. The shift linkage is routed the same as stock A body except for reverse. I routed over the top of the crossmember(shifter sat high enough in car to clear)and where the shift lever is on the Jerico it is just below and forward of the 1-2 lever much higher than the 833.
 
Things are starting to get real . Engine is getting built and the trans came in. As new as it gets and they even drilled the trans mount for Chrysler mounting. Can't wait to get home and start mocking up everything ..... get it all bolted up.
 

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The advantage to this trans is that there is no need to clutch for 2 nd 3 rd and 4 th shifts. Disadvantage is what the wallet looks like after. With a soft lock clutch set up properly you can plant your foot and pull / push every gear ( except off the line) the trans is dog plated. No syncros .so gearing down has a bit more to it. Gearing is 3:08, 1:93, 1:34, 1:1. It's built for drag and my car , Jerico DR-4....... SS/AH I think can run anything from 727 to liberty 4 speeds, jericos etc. correct me if I'm wrong please, but I believe it's fairly open to transmissions? Maybe someone can chime in on that cause I'm not entirely sure about that class
 
69MOPE said:
Can you explain the advantages? Is that trans the one used in SS/AH cars?
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no... jerico's are top end racing transmissions. competitors with lenco, gforce etc.

the stock mopar 4spd is good up to a certain torqe/car weight. but even a well built smallblock can break one.
 
Nice set up, is that the the new DR4-4 trans if so it is the strongest tran they have built yet. My DR4 wide gear has the top and bottom plates which makes it wider than the new top plate trans, so you should have more clearence in the tunnel than I had. I used the Hurst Ram Rod shifter which is the same size as regular 4spd shifter. The Long shifter( which is the best shifter there is ) will take a little triming on the hole in the floor to fit but your going to love it once it in. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR NEW SETUP!
 
you will love that trans. my times dropped from 11.0 to 10.70s just from not having to use the clutch after the launch! hold it to the floor and bang away! you cannot lazy shift the trans ( like driving on the street) it will grind every time. I modified the crossmember and used ford F700 cab mounts for my trans and I welded up the 833 mounting holes on my Lakewood shield and drilled and tapped new one for the jerico. I will be getting a quicktime bell this time. make sure you do the bellhousing runout with a dial indicator and you will need longer offset dowel pins for adjustment! very important good luck. mark
 
I had a MR. gasket /hurst vertigate shifter on my 833 trans before. It seems to be pretty much the same size as my new long shifter . So all trimming for the shifter is already done, and it will end up in the same spot , they custom built the shift linkage for me to fit the same hole. It even looks like it should fit in the 4 speed tunnel I put in last year . Might have to hammer one edge out a bit , nothing major. had to take a 1/16th off the bearing cover on the new trans to fit the quick time bellhousing for a tight fit.
 
smokindust said:
you will love that trans. my times dropped from 11.0 to 10.70s just from not having to use the clutch after the launch! hold it to the floor and bang away! you cannot lazy shift the trans ( like driving on the street) it will grind every time. I modified the crossmember and used ford F700 cab mounts for my trans and I welded up the 833 mounting holes on my Lakewood shield and drilled and tapped new one for the jerico. I will be getting a quicktime bell this time. make sure you do the bellhousing runout with a dial indicator and you will need longer offset dowel pins for adjustment! very important good luck. mark
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Thanks for the info. I will definitely be dialling in the bellhousing, can't wait to get my engine back to do that. Gonna have to mock it up with an old block for now, weld new engine perches while I'm at it , I have a s&$@ load to do yet
 
That must be awesome to shift 2nd @ 7500 without a clutch. Always wanted to run one myself. Problem is the street manners is a little rough.
 
I have a question. I ordered new motor mounts from Schumacher . Also ordered a new tranny mount from them. Will polyurethane be too stiff for aggressive shifting ? Should I go with a bit softer trans mount ? Or will having all my mounts polyurethane be ok. ?
 
jcmmurray said:
I have a question. I ordered new motor mounts from Schumacher . Also ordered a new tranny mount from them. Will polyurethane be too stiff for aggressive shifting ? Should I go with a bit softer trans mount ? Or will having all my mounts polyurethane be ok. ?
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I personally would do solid motor mnts and rubber trans mount. urethane should be fine on the tranny. im assuming this is more track than street? solid motor mnts will keep the engine from twisting. you don't want any deflection!
 
smokindust said:
I personally would do solid motor mnts and rubber trans mount. urethane should be fine on the tranny. im assuming this is more track than street? solid motor mnts will keep the engine from twisting. you don't want any deflection!
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I do have their torque strap getting shipped as we speak , that should take a bit of the twist out ??? I really wanted to stay away from solid mounts but if you guys think that's best than I'm up for it, if I don't want to go solid will polyurethane mounts from Schumacher be the strongest type . 19Dart66. That is a DR-4-4
 
hi, we run solid engine mounts and poly trans mount. this keeps everything aligned for better clutch operation. is your trans a clutchless style or clutch assisted style?
 
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